Grant

JuzzieYou are a hard man. The remaining conversion bits are only minor details that can be fixed easily enough. However I agree about the steering wheel and white dials. Also, Do E30 M3 Verts have a spoiler?? I think that a spoiler would well and truly ruin that car. I think it looks very tidy, but when I see it in person, I will make up my mind properly. Also to be fair, you may have an over inflated view of what an E30 M3 is worth (easy enough for you I know seeing as you have a very very nice example of one yourself). Cheers

It looks pretty genuine to me. I see nothing that makes me think any different. I will go and have a look at it this weekend. Also $45k for a vert E30 M3 would be about right. A decent tin top one would fetch $40k easily enough. Remember you are buying a legend, not just a car.

I am, but it makes no difference I don't think (however I am in the middle of making a heat shield for it), but it does sound pretty cool under WOT.Cheers

Yeah, I am quite a fan of System of a Down as well, they appeal for the BDO.Some of the NZ acts are good too. Cheers

VB is quite possibly the worst beer in existance. It is so bad it is undrinkable.

Your either Female or batting for the other team with comments like that!!! Someone give Brent a medal for: 1. Figuring out how to get her thumb off his forehead! AND 2. Figuring out how to keep his thumb on hers, or dare I say it, chained to the kitchen. **quickley runs and hides before any wives (my own especially) / Girl Friends / Feminists read this** GlennYour a brave man openly typing what the rest of us are too scared too (even though we secretly think it). Brent, nice work - what are the plans for the 635? Cheers

I did this recently (to a lesser degree...I just used a rag etc, not actual carb cleaner). The reaon I did this was that the flap in the AFM was binding slightly just after start up, causing a bad idle and really rough running for the first few seconds of driving. Cleaning the AFM made a massive difference to the idle at cold start up in my car (the AFM was dirty enough inside to cause the flap to bind). Cheers

aint that the truth.

There are some for sale on trade me at the moment...cheap too from memory. I can't be assed finding the URL, but I'm sure you will find it. Cheers

Cheers Cain.Tony (my workmate) and I have just ordered seats in the Schumacher Stand, and a hotel package for AUD$750 each. The tickets also include a garage tour walk the weekend, so hopefully can get a decent look up close. Just awaiting confirmation from the agency to come through. Cheers

Hi All I am asking for opinions here (with intelligent reasoning, not just some stupid pointless response with no reasoning backing it up). Here is the scenario, and what has lead to this post. On my car I have 2 almost new Yokohama A539's, and 2 half worn Yokohama A539's. I am of the opinion that even on a rear wheel drive car you should have your best tyres on the front. My reasoning is as follows: 1) The front of the car does the steering (obviously) and the majority of the braking, so having the best grip possible will enable you to brake more quickly as well as be able to turn more quickly. 2) If traction is broken in a rear wheel drive car, it is much harder to control the front should you lose traction, than the rear (should traction be broken at that end), therefore to me it makes sense to me to have as much grip and control on the front as possible. 3) My last thought is that I am much more confident of beign able to control the rear end of the car should it break away then I am the front. What brings this up, is that yesterday when I got a wheel alignment done, the guy was saying that I should have the better tyres on the rear, as that is the end that I am most likely to lose traction in. What are your thoughts, opinions? Maybe I am completely wrong. Cheers

I'm going to the 2005 Melbourne GP, it should be awesome. Cheers

Get more info about it, surely it can't be that bad. Cheers

Newmarket Tyre Services on Carlton Gore Road. They are pretty good (I should know, it is my third alignment in under 6 months...don't ask!!!)

Just got a wheel alignment done, after getting the suspension installed. I was interested as to how the new suspension, and the slight lowering (35mm or so) of my car would affect the camber etc, and to see if I was still within the factory tolerences. The tolerances are as follows: Front camber = -0.17 degrees to -1.17 degrees Front Caster = 9.00 degrees to 8.00 degrees Front Toe = 1.4mm to 2.4mm Total Front Toe = 2.8mm to 4.9mm Steer Ahead = -.05 dgrees to .05 degrees Rear Camber = -1.50 degrees to -2.50 degrees Rear Toe = -0.9mm to 5.5mm Total Toe = 3.2mm to 6.1mm Thrust Angle = -0.25 degrees to 0.25 degrees My Results were as follows (Left...Right) Front Camber = -1.69 ...-1.66 Front Caster = 7.99...8.39 Front Toe = 1.8mm...2.0mm Total Toe = 3.8mm Steer Ahead = -0.01 degree Rear Camber = -1.52...-1.24 Rear Toe = 2.0...4.1 Total Toe = 6.2mm Thrust Angle = -0.08 degree Therefore the suspension has pushed a few of the aspects out of the factory tolerences, but only marginally. The biggest one is the front cabmer which is slightly more negative than it should be (but not enough to cause any issue). Cheers

Ryan, you learned a valuable lesson. Take your car to a BMW mechanic who knows BMW's and can quickly and easily diagnose a problem (like BM Workshop or Bavarian Motors). Even if their hourly rate is more, you will end up saving money as they know exactly what to look for, so the actual time taken to fix any problems is less. Also they are more likely to have parts in stock, so are less likely to have to wait for parts to come in. Next time get an answer out of them to begin with when your car will be done and make them stick to it (unless of course for unforseen reasons they are unable to). But yes, normally when you book your car in for a specific day, you expect work to begin on it that same day. Good luck, let us know how you get on. Hopefully it comes back running well, and you can start getting some enjoyment out of it. Cheers

Awesome...Go the Mighty E30. Cheers

Cain, please tell us more. Cheers

Oh yeah, I forgot to say earlier. My old shocks were completely worn out, and they have since been thrown away. Also my rear shock mounts had disintegrated. This would explain why my car behaved so badly on Pukekohe at the track day a couple of weeks ago. The difference now is almost beyond words. Cheers

That may be a bit of a subjective question, what looks good to one person, looks like poo to another. What do you think looks good? Let us know that, and we can help you with the look you want. To me, the less bling the better, but for a lot of people it is the other way around. Good luck Cheers

Andy, Gus and I had a comparison drive this afternoon on Lonely Track Drive in Albany. We compared our three cars, the suspension differences are as follows: Andy's = Bilstein Sports Shocks, Jamex 40mm Sports Springs and urathane bushes Gus's = Stock Shocks, Jamex 40mm Sports Springs and urathane bushes Mine = Bilstein Sports shocks, H&R Sport Springs, newish stock rubber bushes and Racing Dynamics front strut bar. All in all they handled pretty similarly and capably, as expected because of the stock shocks, Gus's car had a bit more roll, and was a bit 'bouncier'. My front end was a bit more solid due to the strut bar, and this stopped the front end moving at all during hard cornering. Also, my tyres are a bit stickier, so they helped my car hold on pretty well too. When driving Gus's car, I managed to easily light up the inside rear tyre in third gear when taking one left hand corner pretty hard. What I need now is Gus's short shift (which is awesome) and Andy's racing seats. Also having a bit of horsepower at over 4,800 rpm's would be a great help (but that is on its way). The best thing about the new suspension set up is the ability to take corners at twice the recommended road sign speeds and knowing that my car will just hold on. Also I noticed on the drive to Pauanui and back that corners I previously had to brake on, didn't feel like they existed anymore, it was just a case of point and shoot at the corners and bodyroll and a twitchy rear end were a thing of the past. The set up is not too stiff or harsh either, it is certainly a bit stiffer than before on the general open road, but it is still comfortable enough. Andy, Gus - did I sum this up ok, add any comments and observations you guys had. Cheers

As Homy pointed out, back on topic please. Cheers

Looks nice, a good clean lined car. Welcome to the site. Cheers

Looking sharp young Dan, very very sharp. Nice work. Cheers

Sorry for the OT here...but Welcome Cain. One question, why are you selling the 540iS? For any potential purchasers here, it is a very nice car. Cheers