handgrenade

As much as I have gotten my hands dirty in my younger days building and maintaining my cars .. with the amount of time I need to dedicate to work and that the BMW Is my daily I think I'm in the position to have someone to do the work properly. Spent way too much of my youth under cars and under the hood .. would rather pay to have it right .. tbh the amount of extra pay I would get at work if I did overtime vs going home to work the car would be more cost efficient to have someone do it

People do a lot for that wank factor !! Haha Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

You can access the obc and cycle thru the readouts using the stalk - you can push it in like a button

off topic but I have a 18 button obc and stalk to control it as well for sale ..

Yep have spoken to ray .. He hasn't done the s50b32 double VANOS before so testing on a spare head to make sure he gets the pricing and steps right

Hey Anthony, Love the sound from the new exhaust! Mean!

SPDT set up done .. ran out of time so I haven't wired the internal switch yet. but its okay, the SPDT neutral switch is the original angel eyes set up. It is only when I put in a 12v signal that it switches to the running lights/interior light lock set up A lot of trouble for DRL but we'll see. Learnt a lot about wiring and used solder and heatshrink like a good proper job! haha. i just need more fuses now I think . .

When I come to think about it .. I think after I wired up the angel eye harness to fuel pump fuse and interior lights, I never used my HID (switched parklights etc on) - never drove it at night after that point. No whenever I run the parking lights (use the headlight switch) I blow fuse 33 and 37. I will pull the fuse from the angel eye harness to remove draw from the parking lights circuit and see if I still blow fuses. Otherwise I am going to set up a SPDT relay on both angel eyes and trigger daytime mode vs night mode, might even use a twilight switch if I can be bothered wiring that in .. running lights (angel eye harness during the day), then as soon as ambient light drops below a point, the relays will switch over to normal angel eye + HID and disconnect from park light circuit .. hope it works. i drew out a wiring diagram on a whiteboard but now its time to wrap my head around a 5pin input relay with two throws.

I have just installed a new wiring harness for my angel eyes. Before, they turned on with my park lights. The new harness controls the angel eyes directly from the 12v power source in the engine bay (the box with the red plus on it). the harness has a relay and a fuse and two trigger wires. when the trigger wires are sent a 12v signal, the relay trips and allows power through to the angel eyes. I have used a fuse tap on the fuel pump relay to access a constant 12v signal when the car is running - meaning the angel eyes run as daytime running lights. I then routed the second trigger wire through to the drivers footwell interior light. So the angel eyes fade on and off when I unlock/lock the car with my key fob. This worked fine for a while but then I started continuing blowing the interior lights fuse (which in turn stops my rear park lights and license plate lights from working and also my instrument cluster). The set up works fine until I switch the headlight switch (on the right) to park or low beam (HID kit). I've tried disconnecting the second trigger to the footwell light, still blows the fuse, thought the short could be coming from somewhere else, so have checked boot lid wiring .. no luck. Brake lights work so it isn't dangerous. Am I overloading the park light circuit? if I can't get this to work, I'm going to have to convert it back to the original set up and just deal with no daytime running lights (unless with headlights in park mode) and no connection to the interior fadein/fadeout. Any info, much appreciated. Thanks

Sorry off topic how much did that software tune cost?

Looks like you bagged yourself one of the 14 (13 road legal) nz new evo sedans! http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/48552-new-zealand-new-bmw-e36-m3-evo-sedans/

There ya go!

Sure of which part? All of it? Alteast my messy soldering skills are hidden in electrical tape

Pulled the drivers side foot well light .. Soldered in a wire then ran it into the engine bay for the second trigger and now its all set. Angels on when unlock and lock. Fade on each. Just need to rethink the running lights trigger. Fuel pump is okay but I'd prefer a proper ignition 1 or even ignition 0 trigger point

The jumper bolt is a m6 but there is a m8 just above tapped the fuel pump fuse and running lights sorted!!

How do I get the blasted plastic cap off the engine bay jumper screw? Need access to the bolt but stupid plastic cover won't come off. Tried pulling at it. Then copious swearing and still no luck ..

I've driven behind friends and they don't get too much glare from my HID lights .. not sure about oncoming traffic on open roads with hills and crests, but in those situations, even high beam halogens are blinding enough ..

Right, no, not tapping into the ecu, however it would technically be the best option as I believe the ecu gets power as soon as the key is inserted rather than the fuel pump which requires the key to be turned to position 3? but I can live with that .. ! A lot of US owners tap into the ECU and I haven't seen any issues thus far .. however best to be safe. I have looked around for details regarding the unloader relay circuit with no luck on exactly what/where this is. I believe it powers up as Josh says, and also is linked into the air conditioning and other items, however from what I can piece together from e39 forums etc, the relay is hidden somewhere either up behind the glovebox, or somewhere in the footwell. Confusing as well because all the diagrams are for LHD. Hopefully tapping from the fuel pump fuse should be okay for daytime running, and tapping the passenger footwell light should be enough for the lock/unlock. The inline blade fuse taps I'm using are: The lower fuse 'port' holds the original fuse and it is on a separate circuit. The upper fuse holder taps off a single pole of the original fuse (to give a 12v signal) and then there is a secondary fuse which then leads out to the red wire. Im no electrical engineer, but I don't see how any sort of error occuring on the tap out would affect the original fuse (unless you pump enough power in or something silly - it just carries a signal to activate a relay (which is fused as well!). We'll see how it goes .. hopefully I don't blow up anything important .. worst comes to worst, I can pull the radio loom and find an ACC source from there! I just hate running wiring from the engine bay to the cabin! I tried a whole bunch of other fuses to tap into the internal lights but i couldn't find one which triggered along with the lock/unlock items. so it looks like I will have to run a line from the passenger footwell. Edit: rough diagram

Thanks dave - I just dont have any calipers on me at the moment! Still a little worried about Josh's comment on frying other electrics in the car! I would have thought the fuse tap from the fuel pump relay would not destroy anything as the original fuse is still in play and there is a secondary 5amp fuse for the relay ..

Hi Josh Thanks for the heads up. Right now I have a double blade fused relay (from JayCar) tapping off the fuel pump fuse. The relay in my angel eye harness also has a fuse, and the double blade fused relay has a fuse as well. the tap has two fuses in it - one to handle the original fuel pump fuse, and the other to tap into the signal from one of the fuse points into another fuse which then has an output. I tried to find some information about this unloader relay fuse, but can't seem to find any info about where I can find it on an e36 .. Thanks!

EBay USA sells some modified depo headlights tuned for RHD. Clear cutoff

Thanks for the replies Yeah that's in the engine bay I have a special harness with a relay and two trigger points. First I need to wire the relay to constant 12v and then I've tapped off the ECU or fuel pump fuse so they they are pretty much running lights. Second trigger will go to drivers side foot well light so they'll fade on and off when remote lock unlock. I have a full plug and play set up with new lamps and projectors and HID setup for RHD.

Hi All Can someone tell me what size nut will fit on this screw here? It is a direct feed to the positive terminal of the battery which feeds into a line going to the battery in the boot. I need this to wire my angel eye harness. see the exposed thread right in the centre of the image. Thanks

Slightly off topic yeah. Thought you guys would like to see a faux H50