Matth5

Isn't it risky to lower such a big car? Seen a lowered V8 Falcon bottom out on a rather normal driveway recently, made a nasty metallic clunk. I do envy your car, love the way it looks. Would buy it if I could. I dream of one with a V10 from the E60 M5.

The road from Nelson to Golden Bay. Takes you up this mountain roads up through the clouds and back down. Narrow curvy roads with lots of elevation changes, sheer cliff drops next to the road, like a tarmac rally course almost. Incredible fun. Can put some serious wear on your brakes, I managed to overheat mine by having a bit too much fun...

Had it on my 328. Had the subframe replaced and the replacement was heavily reinforced with steel plates for good measure.

Just pop it on auction again if you don't like it, easy. Just have a bit of fun with it first. That 540 being a high mileage auto, I'd wonder how much life is left in the transmission. But hey it's cheap for what you get regardless.

Around $20 is pretty standard for fitting + balancing I've found. Some places might push it closer to $30.

It's generally recommended to put headlights on when it's raining, foggy or when the sun has just gone down. Both situations where it maybe helps to be a bit more visible, but you don't need the road ahead it up. I know I don't really need them to be on in these situations but it might be a good thing to do. Maybe it's pointless, but it's harmless Agree with you on those trucks. Some people have annoyingly bright lights and maybe what I'm doing is just trying harder than I need to in order to not be like them.

There will always be some glare when you go over bumps or approach other drivers over crests ect. I don't see the harm in pointing your headlights down to reduce that when you don't need them lighting up the road in front of you. I know it's not a major thing but hey, I can do it so why not.

Seems silly to say it's the "wrong" setting. There are valid reasons for lowering them if you car has a dial on the dash to adjust them while driving. If I'm turning them on for the same of just being visible due to rain or dawn/dusk then I lower them. Only raise them when I need them for visibility - at night time. I do that to reduce the glare for caused to other people. I imagine if you explained that to the testing officer they'd use their common sense though? I suppose this is why it makes sense to get a BMW place to do the WOF, since they'd know about things like this. Although headlight adjustments dials aren't exclusive to BMW. I've never actually used a BMW specialist for a WOF though, might do so next time as I've often had VTNZ pick up little issues and it would just be easier if the place doing the WOF could take care of fixing the issues too.

That is beautiful.

Installed the Grom Bluetooth adapter behind the radio. Bluetooth without an ugly ass head deck for about $150 (bought from the US via Youshop to save on shipping). Seems to work pretty well so far

Got my Grom unit and installed it today. Using the kit that goes behind the radio (actually end up tucking it behind the climate control,not enough space behind the radio, but hey that works just as well) Mic mounts just to the right side of the gauge cluster, seems like a good spot. Can mount it elsewhere but it's fairly simple to route the cable behind the cluster. Working well so far. Had a few issues until I complete disconnected the CD changer (which is not functional after installing the Grom unit anyway so may as well take it out).

Body moulding tape could work? http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online-store/products/Clingtape-Body-Moulding-Tape-12mm-x-4m.aspx?pid=299060#Cross When removing something from your car that's attached with double sides tape you can use floss or cotton to remove it safely. Then you can clean off the remnants with some meths or something.

You can get them much cheaper with a bit of online searching. I just ran a simple Ebay search and found some cheaper ones: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xbmw+e39+headlight+lens&_nkw=bmw+e39+headlight+lens&_sacat=0 Might get good deals if you check FCP Euro and ECS Tuning too.

Ah, so I'm not alone. What I found on the E46 lenses is there is some thick clearcoat-type layer on them and the sanding pads do jack-s**t until you use something harsher to get rid of it first. I imagine E39 lenses have the same. Even then, improvement in the end was not what I'd hoped for, better than before but they still look crap. I think the pads they give you wear down rather quickly too so I used them up a bit before I sanded off that clear-oat layer. Wish I saved the money so I could buy new lenses at a later point. If you add up the time and effort you spend, it just makes sense to buy new lenses online from overseas (local prices are probably a joke). I scored some headlights off Trademe for $1. Was hoping they'd have good lenses but they're in about the same state as mine. At least with a spare set I can safely experiment if I find another idea for them (and having the spare bulbs came in handy when one of mine blew).

Sometimes you can save on shipping by using Youshop (or similar services). Will help you avoid some rip-offs.

Just went ahead and ordered the Grom BT kit from the US. I wonder how they compare.

Exhaust leak wouldn't disappear randomly, it would always make the noise? Remember my old Falcon when a hole broke in the muffler, driving through a neighborhood at night probably woke everyone up...

Try these: HellBM (Silverdale) Bellars Motor works (North Shore) Botany Motor Works Burgers Motor Works (North Shore) They're all good and reputable places. Seen the guys from HellBM and the owner of Botany Motor Works hanging out on this forum.

Tell him, "Welcome to the BMW club, get used to it!" Notice it has the same body kit as mine. Don't see that around much.

Correct What's a good place in Auckland to get trim wrapped, preferably one that has a good variety of wrap in stock so I can see what it looks like before choosing? Carfolie maybe? Coolant leak turned out to be the radiator Bellars Motor works is currently replacing it.

Done a few things over the past couple weeks... 1. Originally had the OEM chrome tips. One fell off while driving in the city. Replacement OEM ones were at least $100. Ordered a pair of stainless steel tips from Ebay for $30 shipped. Attach on with a metal hose clamp. They're fatter and stick out more than OEM do so I was worried about fitment, but they turned out great. 2. Used shoe polish on plastic trip and those matt black window pillars. Worked like magic, they don't look faded and it's held up fine even when driving in heavy rain. The difference hardly shows up in pictures though. 3. Replaced handbrake boot with a nice one I found online (did the shifter boot a while back and decided to get the matching handbrake one). Also took apart the drivers door to fix the vapour barrier leak so the moisture absorber sitting there probably isn't necessary any more. Next step for the interior is to wrap that wooden trip with something, maybe brushed aluminium/steel. Ideas? I have aluminium pedal covers sitting in my room waiting to be drilled on too... 4. Found it left a green puddle on the garage floor. Expansion tank must have sprung a leak. Right after spending $700 to replace other cooling system parts a week ago Hope pics aren't too big, I set them to what seemed like a good size.

Ah cool, bought one from Trademe. From another seller though as his price was the same but $3 cheaper for shipping: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=779180075 Will save it for when I'm closer to doing my oil change, probably in a couple months. Already got my new oil and filter.

Thanks for that Couldn't find Redline anywhere. BNT only supply trade? Wondering of one of the other brands at Supercheap/Repco are ok. I've read some websites/forums saying it's not necessary when using premium petrol as they contain additives that keep injectors clean but I imagine they're not as effective. I don't expect any improvement, car runs very well as it is, just figured it might be good maintenance.

Is this worth it for smaller parts? Keen to get some bits like new headlight lenses, windscreen cowl, and other random bits that are usually expensive to order due to shipping. If so I'll nail down what I want and send you the list.

Thanks for the answers from my questions not long ago. Had it in for a service at Bellars Motor Works since they were the most convenient for location. Diagnoses was actually a leaking thermostat but I was told the water pump had excessive play in the bearing. Thermostat, WP, upper hose and expansion cap replaced for $710 all up. Left the other stuff for now as the shop said I should deal with this first. Got a leak through drivers door for ages and finally figured where it's leaking through, not the door seal but the door itself, vapour barrier must have a leak. Do you guys use fuel injector cleaners at all? The ones that you put in your fuel tank. On US forums some say it's good to do at the same interval as oil changes but wondering if the same applies here since our fuel is a bit different? If so, whats good for BMWs and where can I get it?