Rohil
-
Content Count
263 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Everything posted by Rohil
-
It's a m20b25 now, and yes I was also a bit skeptical as I was under the impression with timing marks the pistons would not collide with valves. On a b25, does the dizzy need to be aligned or just leave it to do its own thing? Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
-
M20B23 out of a '85 323i for sale. Was a runner when we pulled the engine. Comes with auto trans attached. Note: ECU and loom will be available but just using them to rewire my engine up. But will be available once I'm done. Looking for around $275 Thanks! Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
-
So the guy reckons it's a valve to piston. But he hasn't properly started diagnosing the car. But when I changed the cambelts the cam and crank was lined up to the factory marks. He said it's at 'half cycle' most likely. So can anyone confirm if this would be the case even though the cam and crank marks are lined up perfectly? Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
-
$8,500! Going away in just over a week so it's gotta go! Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
-
Down to $9K! Just need it gone now, as E30 has gone into the shop.
-
Tried jumping the starter that way, nothing. So suspected starter, BUT its weird that it would click and try to turn the engine when you use the key? So its gone into a garage because as much as id love to learn and say iv fixed it, id like to drive it more haha. So fingers crossed itll be up and running soon!
-
Yeah man i have tried that. I even got my jumper leads and hooked it up from the sump to strut tower bolt but still nothing. Silly question and i assumed no, but does the speedo and econometer gauge have to be hooked up? Dunno what else to try really, bad starter? Iv hit it and still nothing, unless its completely dead?
-
Thanks man! As for grounds iv cleaned all of them and attached them still nothing. I have a slight feeling that after all this it'd the starter, although I am yet to test the cps. I just want to drive it now haha, iv lined up to take it into the shop.
-
Yeah expensive, but my reasoning that im sure whoever is genuinely interested will contact me and we can negotiate prices once they've seen the car. And yeah the E36 and Commodore guy was my mate haha. His reasoning was, its letting people know that theres no swaps haha. It worked i guess. The commodore on offer was actually my other mates which hes just bought.
-
Hey Guys, Selling my E46 to fund the E30 project! If youre interested you can send me a PM, or contact me through TradeMe. Whichever works for you. I would preferably like to let this car go to an enthusiast, your pride and joy going to a good home is always great! Looking for around $10,750 but its obviously negotiable. You guys probably know its value. *131,800 K's *Oil Service done Sunday 17/05/15 *2.2L Straight 6 Below are more in depth details off of TradeMe: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=889687018&ed=true I have had the car for over a year and had all the intention of keeping it for years. But unfortunately circumstances have changed due to a project needing attention, and need to sell this beauty. During my ownership I have done regular maintenance, and gone beyond that in some cases just for peace of mind. I currently drive it daily so expect the mileage to increase a little. '05 was the last year of production for the E46 sedan, it is the most refined version of the car. It’s a great car for city driving, and is equally comfortable on long journeys with ample space for luggage etc. Importantly, it is a chain driven engine so there is no need to worry about cambelts and all that jazz. Serpentine/accessory belts and tensioners were all changed last year as part of regular maintenance. M Sport version features: *M-Tech II Bodykit *M-Sport suspension *M-Sport cloth/alcantara interior *M-Sport steering wheel *M-Sport Trim (ie badges on sills, steering wheel and wheels) *Shadowline Exterior Trim Comes with extras: *Xenon headlights *Angel eyes *Black kidney and lower grille *Front speakers changed to components *3 User memory settings for seats and mirrors *Split folding rear seats, with optional ‘ski-bag’ which was seen as part of the ‘cold weather package’ from the factory *Aluminum accented interior *Tinted *Parrot Hands-free Bluetooth system installed. *Factory First-Aid Kit *Have receipts for most work done under my ownership If you have any questions feel free to ask, or alternatively you can contact me using the details given below. As for price, make an offer if you like. The price is negotiable if you are genuinely interested. Viewing is in Blockhouse Bay, Auckland." Thanks, Rohil
-
UPDATE: So after bridging the fuel pump relay the fuel pump whizzes, so im saying the relay is dead, is that fair to assume? I have been told the DME relay is the only 5 pin one, BUT my car has 2 5 pin relays? I am talking about the 3 in a row relays by the inner wing to the left of the afm. Theres a weird connector left over, it comes , part number is 12511706479 called the cable distributor/tszi-control unit, whatever that may be. No idea where this needs to be spliced into? It has one blue and one red wire in it. and comes of the loom which goes from the battery straight to the fusebox. I didnt bother with the speed or tach yet, but iv spliced the green wire from the c104, to the positive terminal of the ignition coil. Still when you turn the key you get a big click but nothing else. Also bridging the pins in the diagnostic port i think pins 11 and 14? Its meant to spin the starter but all that happens is you here the relay click.
-
Cheers Brent!
- 2 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- e30
- ignition coil
- (and 6 more)
-
Thanks man, the diagrams i had to wire it up seemed pretty on form. But worst comes worst ill give this a go. I can crank the engine over with much trouble with the accessory belts on, but once theyre off its smooth and easy to crank over. Mind you i tried this when the engine was out. Would it make a difference if it was in the car? It sucks that itll be Saturday before i get to it, but ill spending all day and night trying everything i can. So please do keep the suggestions coming through guys! Its much appreciated. I should maybe have started a build thread as well...
-
Tapping starter yields no results. Im assuming the click when you turn the key means the starter is engaging anyways. But cant be sure
-
So engine finally has been swapped! However, it tried to turn over and died and now when you put the key in and start it, it jut clicks and doesn't start. Anyone around Blockhouse Bay free on Saturday by any chance to help me out? When you turn the key all you hear is a click and then nothing, but with the key in position 1 all the lights etc all work fine. Battery is brand new. Iv found a few things to try try bypassing ignition through diagnostic plug. And bridging relays. Any other ideas?
-
Hi Guys, I need an ignition coil for my '89 325i. I have one from my '85 323i, but i cross checked the part #'s on RealOEM and they dont match, so i thought its probably best to get the right part for the job. Part # is: 12131286087 if it matters. It can be used, just as long as its working okay. The closer to Blockhouse Bay, Auckland, the better! But dont mind shipping i guess. Cheers!
-
Cheers! Is it possible to use the 318 radiators as they have an expansion tank built into them?
-
Plans slightly changed the engine is now out of a '89. Wiring is pretty much the same. Regarding the driveshaft center support bearing. There is an early and a late style, does it matter on the car or the driveshaft? Because the car is an early model and the driveshaft will be from a late model one.
-
Thanks for your input Jon! So Engine and loom and ecu will all be easy as they come with the package and are part of th engine, its just the C101 and C104 that needs a few wires swapped I have the ECU and loom. Im just a bit stuck on the C101 connections as pinouts iv found say different things. If you could find the pinout that would be great! You have no idea how lost i am with which pinout to believe haha. Mechanical side isnt too bad, mounts and everything else, everything will drop in and the transmission wiring shouldnt be too hard its about 2 or 3 wires for the reverse lights etc by the shifter. Do i really have to swap to a newer cooling system? I know they say you cant use the expansion tank and radiator, but would maybe the early one i have now work?
-
Cheers Matt! The L-Jet is gettign swapped out when the engine gets dropped in, its just the wiring to the Square C101 plug that im having trouble with. Im in the same student position as you were haha, hopefully itll go okay! Ill have a look at the Bentleys.
-
Hi Guys, So iv got a fully dressed '87-'88 M20B25 with loom and ecu, gearbox etc all with it lined up. The only problem now is the wiring from the C101 plug which is round and has 20 pins, to my rectangular C101 on the '85 323i. I have started to create a pinout chart which ill upload later tonight, theres just a few wires i am unsure where they should go? There is scarce information about 323i's on the internet, as they were Euro spec and well you know, if its not US spec then no one on any of their forums wants to know about it. I also need a bit of help as to what will go to the C104 plug (i understand this is for the cluster side of things). There is a round connection on the bulkhead by the passenger side, i know this isnt a C101 as i have an earlier car but i was wondering what it actually is. Any wiring help would be much appreciated. Ill upload my chart so far later on. This is the first time iv done anything near this intense mechnically, but thought id try my hand at it. I havent got the engine yet but will have it in a month, so i thought its best to prepare everything now so that its easier when i have everything. The 323i L-Jet wasnt the best starting place but its what i have to work with so ill do my best to make it work. If any of you guys are around Central/West Auckland, and know about the wiring id be real keen to have some help when the engine is dropped in. i HATE electrical systems and having not much experience doesnt really help my cause. Im sure with some help i can get this done successfully, so cheers for any help you can provide me with! Also i know the connector changes around the time this engine was built, so i will check again and confirm. This will probably be the same thread i ask lots of electrical questions over the time of the swap. Thanks!
-
I did this a few weeks back. Bolt it together and do away with the guibo. Use self locking nuts and washers. Loctite wouldnt hurt. Although its weird because i didnt seem to need to shorten it?
-
Any takers?
-
I love the coupe man, where'd you score that nifty roof spoiler if you dont mind me asking?
-
So iv tracked down a whole manual kit its about an hour away from me and iv got a quote for install as well. Just getting a price from Ray hopefully for him to install and get the parts required so i guess ill weigh up the options.