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Everything posted by Olaf
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After a scan - my first port of call would be battery. Modern BMW (like E60 onwards) very sensitive to voltage and bad batty the source of many gremlins. Be sure to code to the car if you change it out. You're into modern BMW ownership, you need a scan tool.
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thanks mate will get amongst it
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Options on removal of Japanese plate brackets?
Olaf replied to Deek9000's topic in General Discussion
This - 100% -
Sorry I missed this question all those years back. Fuchs oils/fluids were sold by BNT, I bought a 20l of DEXIII from them at a very reasonable price for my old Volvo 855-T5 years back. I'm fairly sure that's where Page were buying their fluid from. Here we are in 2024 and it looks like Penrite ATF BMW (Full Syn) is suitable for ZF6, ZF8, ZF9 (amongst others)... doing the research now. https://www.penrite.info/en/auto-transmission-fluids-atf/atf-bmv-full-syn
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pics or it didn't happen!
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Date: 15 Aug 2024 Distance: 213,120 kms 1. Oil Cap Replacement (pass); Tailgate Bump Stop Replacement (fail). Finally replaced the old oil cap with a new OEM item. It had been sitting on the hall table for months - kept forgetting it. Less successful was replacing the rear hatch bump stops... turns out no captive nuts, so not only a 20mm spanner for topside, a 20mm crowsfoot or stubby spanner is required for the inside (or remove the trim). Deferred. Here's a pretty pic
- 72 replies
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- e46
- e46 touring
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(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
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my image, M535i shark attack on south coast of Wellington, Nikon D810 with Nikkor 16-25 f4 VR, B+W Kassemann pol filter
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My image. Hawkes Bay BMW, June 2023 iPhone 13 pro, with some careful editing in Lr.
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Come to the light, mate. iPhone for you. 😁
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I tried a simple search on duckduckgo (Jewellers Screwdrivers).... yes there's a Temu result, though only one, and it's an advert coming in third place. I usually scroll past all of the adverts and seek the search engine's work output. From my perspective that's a win. If you're getting more, is it driven by your cookies, or have Temu built a profile on you?
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my image South Island 2015 e46 Touring, near Lake Pukaki if I recall correctly. Nikon D3 most likely with a Nikkor 24-70 2.8 and pol filter.
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my image - e36 at Manfield, Nikon D3
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my image. e30 325SE 'The Stroker', Nikon D810 with 70-200 2.8 FL/E photograhed for DIXI Magazine.
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You can dispose of your waste oil at the WCC tip - on the west side of the transfer station there's a collection area for oils, adjacent to the paint collection (and battery collection) spaces. HTH.
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do check that they're the right circumference for your vehicle!
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about to do that on mine!
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where'd you get it done? As per @Eagle's advice above, sounds like they used cheap rotors. How's the pad dust?
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My image. Marty Irvine at Manfield. I'll need to check - I think this was one of my D3's and either 70-200 f.28 FL/E with a teleconverter, or 300 f2.8.
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This car was previously featured in the BMW Car Club NZ quarterly magazine DIXI under Hagen's ownership, great accounts of his Dad buying the car, trips through the continent etc, Alpina options. If you've not joined the club yet, you should consider it. There's undoubtedly a story in your recent restoration work too. As for what wheels, IMHO keep it on what it's got - those BBS Mahle rims are period correct and what his Dad put on at the time. The only other option in keeping with that could be the 15" version if you can find some. Cheers.
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My pic, Nikon D4s 70-200 2.8FL/E
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yes, drop-top!
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You're not comparing apples with apples, really. My e60 ZF6 was done with drain-and-fill, run ~500kms, and them drop the pan, do the seal, pan filter, all the bolts so more labour and more fluid. This was a car with ~152k kms that had never had a trans service, so I was trying to give it love before it shat the bed. The e46 ZF5 had shat the bed at ~115k kms and had a full rebuild, and a trans service (pan drop, filter change, new fluid) at about 165k kms, prior the service (below) at 205k kms. 1. Drained and filled 2. Filter Change etc (This is more like what you'll be doing on your driveway at home.) I got my e46 ZF5 done as part of a larger service covering many items, and used the fancy machine so used less fluid. No messing around and it shifted like butter afterwards. Essentially you're committed to a course of action, your Trans sounds like it's not at all happy, and you're trying not to spend too much and hoping it's going to get better with least amount of $. I'm picking your oil's going to be black and burned with grit it it. You might want to look into the drain a litre, add a lite approach that I had to use on my old Volvo 850 T5. Here's what I recall - do your own research. You have a clean container marked with a litre (or a quart), and a dirty container marked with a litre (or a quart) as per your clean container. With a warm engine and trans, disconnect line from trans to cooler, connect hose to your dirty container. Run the engine and watch the dirty container slowly fill, shut off at the line. Add same quantity of clean fluid into your trans (Through fill port, trans dipstick tube, or via the trans cooler return line or fill port in your trans - depending on your application). Rinse and repeat until your oil is coming out clean-looking. For my Volvo that took 14 litres. I added 'Trans-Tune' from the folks that make the magic decarbonising fluid Seafoam - that's a whole other story on whether or not additives are a good idea in your ZF. For my Volvo, it improved shifting, improved overall operation of the auto. This is the backyard equivalent of the fancy trans machine without the hydraulic pressure of the machine pumps behind it, using the trans to do it's own pumping. And you'd still want to drop the pan/filter beforehand and change it out, so you're up for ~5-6 litres for that, and then, what.... 10-14 litres for the prime thing? Best of luck. I think there's some how-tos for re-doing the valve blocks in the ZF6, with O-ring kits? I forget now. HTH. EDIT: What difference did I notice after the e60 ZF6 Fuchs trans pan and mechatronic sleeve service? It was 'more decisive' going downhill and changing down a gear automatically... changing up on a light throttle was smoother, less indecision... and changeups under load were crisper. No harshness introduced as a result of the service. We surmised we'd gotten to it at the right time, before friction material had gotten burnt off badly.
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bump!