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Everything posted by Olaf
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that's looking very well cared-for. kudos.
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mate, that's commitment! how do they sound? how does it go now?!
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@balancerider Matt I did need to remove a side panel (clip release), then two 8mm nuts to remove hard plastic trim frame (beneath boot floor). Then it was a couple of 13mm bolts for the hold-down bracket, then remove the terminals, then lift out the battery. Only a little worse than the old e60. How's legroom for rear-seat passengers in the F31 mate?
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Date: 09 Dec 2024 Distance: 216,059 kms 1. Groundhog day. Another left bulb Got another telltale over the weekend that left rear bulb was out. Brake light bulb had gone intermittant. P21W 32CP. E46 Touring tail light cluster as Xmas lights Meanwhile in the DHL van are my new headlamp mainbeam bulbs...
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Yes, Schmeidmann also seem to have a large cluster of holidays that torpedos shipments - though I forget which part of the year that is.... Thanks for the Hubauer link, will give them a lash!
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It's certainly a lot of car for the money. If I win lotto tonight I'll buy it as a bit of ruff. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/x6/listing/5049826942
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carrying duties today, ferrying boxes. still a great drive.
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Is This Where The E30 Market Is Now..?
Olaf replied to E30 325i Rag-Top's topic in TradeMe discussions
you buy it. you care for it. you preserve it. it's a time capsule! get some great 80's tapes, and some classy 80's clobber. wax it, shine your shoes too. timewarp! -
has anyone in NZ completed and certed N52 swap? You might find you're a trailblazer here... top marks! 👍
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nahh all good we all see dogs layin' a dookie... it's that now every time I see an X6 or X4 - tee hee. https://youtu.be/2sbSS6rn7io
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Have you checked RealOEM using your VIN number? It'll specify the right BMW fluid. Then find the standard that fluid meets. Then find a fluid that meets the spec described. And get plenty, unless you're using a trans machine. Also it'll ensure you get the right part number for the pan/service kit. At the moment it seems you're hoping that you can choose the right fluid with conflicting info... doing a pan/filter change drain and fill will run you a good 20 litres of whatever you choose, (you could look into the 'take a litre with engine running, out of the line to the cooler, then add a fresh litre...; rinse and repeat until it comes out clean'); you also need some good service data. Eg: the ZF6 needs new bolts first time as they changed material (the originals get brittle); the mechatronic seal should be changed at same time also as they leak. Suggest you need to look into the 'dark arts' of your GM trans. It'd be a shame to do half the job if there's stuff you haven't discovered and prepared for. Just a thought: why not go to a transmission specialist, pay them for their expertise to use the right fluid and their transmission service machine and put in a service kit that they'll stand by? It might cost you less or the same and net you a better result. Hope that helps.
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oh BTW there's a crowd on TradeMe doing discount BluePoint out of Kapiti. I paid little more than a pint of IPA in a Wellington City bar for a lovely 3/8" strong-arm. You might ask 'why bother?'. I guess if I've carried my 3/8" set into Pick-A-Part, I can make it work with a big ring spanner on the end, without buggering one of my ratchets. YMMV. Anyway, it's beautifully finished and feels great in my hand.
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if you're lucky, there'll be a courier service that isn't aramex, and your NZ Post driver isn't whacked-out and driving past your delivery point with your parcel in the back. They deliver! This is where your BMWCCNZ starts to pay back, with your 10% off parts... I think last time I bought blue it was about $24 per.
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thank you for that rather idelible image. never been particularly taken with the X6; that description sticks! 🤣 .... I think you've clocked the internet today, Matt! kudos @balancerider
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BMW Blue, from your BMW dealer. 1:1 with deionised water.
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my pic, June 2023, CSL - what else?!
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Just an underscoring of the pecking order and work strata of the UK. Back when I was there, when a company was trying to convince me to join as a perm, the company car list would come out.... Audis, BMW e46 or e39, hobbled Jaguars, small Mercedes, Volvos... or most of the standard repmobiles were on offer, in addition to Toyota, Honda, Nissan, Peugeot, Renault etc. You'd pick your car, a small perk tax payment each month, it'd sit in your driveway most days, and you'd have full use and company fuel card, servicing. Pay a little extra per month for some spiciness - really feeding that status hunger. I couldn't see the point as I'd give it back in three years. It seemed odd to me as a perk given I usually flew for business rather than drive. Or if I needed a car, a rental would be delivered to my door, and retrieved when I'd finished with it. I think the whole company car gig in the 90's/00's UK was a big tax rort for the companies. Changes in tax laws and emissions penalties came in after I left the UK.
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Are you sure it's not the ZF6HPyy?
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Date: 29 Nov 2024 Distance: 215742 kms 1. Battery Replacement I've had a headlamp bulb out. A couple of times the vehicle has spazzed-out while running when I turned from sidelights to headlamps - dashboard-reset with a BeeeEEEp tone, clock resets, trip meter resets. I thought it was about 7 years since I replaced it last? With the help of @Autoglym we metered the batty during start - 11.3v. A new Koba batty was sourced. The old AA3772 (720 CCA, 140 RC, 80 AH) was in fact 2013! I recall when I last replaced the batty in 2013, the original date-marked 2002 BMW battery was in there. So 11 years per batty - nice! The Koba SE57510 was a case of 'nearest avalable' in-stock, 730CCA, RC 125 min, 75AH. It's slightly shorter in height than the AA, so a couple of bits of rubber beneath the sole of the hold-down plate had it sorted. Figures 1 & 2: A Koba batty, amidst the chaos of my sub-floor area, yesterday. Yes it's true: I am a closet hi-vis vest wearer - at least when changing a tyre on the roadside, or photographing. The previous AA install in 2013 was swings-and-roundabouts. He'd used Permatex Battery Protector & Sealer, which foams up and dries in a purple colour - brilliant stuff - and all was clean and intact. PS: Does anyone still distribute this in NZ? It seems to have gone unobtaneum. Unfortunately he didn't reconnect the battery breather vent. 🤯 So the bottom of the battery compartment was a little crusty. I vacuumed up any loose scale and gave it a couple of liberal coats of Brunox. That'll slow it down until I can get in there and paint it. Figure 3: the artist formerly known as crusty, now tramsformed with Brunox. Figure 3a: Brunox. The gold standard in Europe, particularly loved by the folks on retrorides. Figure 4: battery breather vent now reconnected. Car now starts more snappily. (8mm socket for the interior frame. 13mm for the hold-down. #2 phillips screw for the clamp tension. 8mm for the battery clamps). Battery lifting by messrs tricep, bicep, & latismus dorsi. Remixed by paracetamol and codine for us old geezers. Next to order a couple of Xenon bulbs. I didn't have bulbs in my spare headlamps.
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yes. diesel crank needs the nose machined up - shortened - and a keyway, I think. All the M42/M44 mods seem to require $$ machine costs, for moderate increases in power/torque.
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those rotors look good John, nice work.
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From what I've read, the M42 crank is forged, the M44 is cast... if you want to head to 8k rpm I think the forged crank is the one... This is an interesting read on M47 cranks... there are variants. 90mm piston and you're on your way to more torque & 2.1 litres woohoo! http://m42club.com/forum/index.php?topic=1921.15 I've just got to get mine done, decided to pop it in stock.
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no diesel stroker crank?
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did you solder? or just left them twisted?