Olaf

Are you sure it's not the ZF6HPyy?

Date: 29 Nov 2024 Distance: 215742 kms 1. Battery Replacement I've had a headlamp bulb out. A couple of times the vehicle has spazzed-out while running when I turned from sidelights to headlamps - dashboard-reset with a BeeeEEEp tone, clock resets, trip meter resets. I thought it was about 7 years since I replaced it last? With the help of @Autoglym we metered the batty during start - 11.3v. A new Koba batty was sourced. The old AA3772 (720 CCA, 140 RC, 80 AH) was in fact 2013! I recall when I last replaced the batty in 2013, the original date-marked 2002 BMW battery was in there. So 11 years per batty - nice! The Koba SE57510 was a case of 'nearest avalable' in-stock, 730CCA, RC 125 min, 75AH. It's slightly shorter in height than the AA, so a couple of bits of rubber beneath the sole of the hold-down plate had it sorted. Figures 1 & 2: A Koba batty, amidst the chaos of my sub-floor area, yesterday. Yes it's true: I am a closet hi-vis vest wearer - at least when changing a tyre on the roadside, or photographing. The previous AA install in 2013 was swings-and-roundabouts. He'd used Permatex Battery Protector & Sealer, which foams up and dries in a purple colour - brilliant stuff - and all was clean and intact. PS: Does anyone still distribute this in NZ? It seems to have gone unobtaneum. Unfortunately he didn't reconnect the battery breather vent. 🤯 So the bottom of the battery compartment was a little crusty. I vacuumed up any loose scale and gave it a couple of liberal coats of Brunox. That'll slow it down until I can get in there and paint it. Figure 3: the artist formerly known as crusty, now tramsformed with Brunox. Figure 3a: Brunox. The gold standard in Europe, particularly loved by the folks on retrorides. Figure 4: battery breather vent now reconnected. Car now starts more snappily. (8mm socket for the interior frame. 13mm for the hold-down. #2 phillips screw for the clamp tension. 8mm for the battery clamps). Battery lifting by messrs tricep, bicep, & latismus dorsi. Remixed by paracetamol and codine for us old geezers. Next to order a couple of Xenon bulbs. I didn't have bulbs in my spare headlamps.

yes. diesel crank needs the nose machined up - shortened - and a keyway, I think. All the M42/M44 mods seem to require $$ machine costs, for moderate increases in power/torque.

those rotors look good John, nice work.

From what I've read, the M42 crank is forged, the M44 is cast... if you want to head to 8k rpm I think the forged crank is the one... This is an interesting read on M47 cranks... there are variants. 90mm piston and you're on your way to more torque & 2.1 litres woohoo! http://m42club.com/forum/index.php?topic=1921.15 I've just got to get mine done, decided to pop it in stock.

no diesel stroker crank?

did you solder? or just left them twisted?

nice looking iS! I drove a near-new one for ~1200kms in Australia in 1993, a memorable drive.

I see 'JC' 😞 Jaguar has been tithing owners wallets for decades 😁

Their new car is said to be built to compete with.... Porsche's model that is almost sales-proof and depreciates faster than an unwrapped Mars bar laying on a beach in the sun. Are they mad? Quite possibly.

Date: 21 Nov 2024 Distance: 215468 kms 1. Replaced side repeaters I noticed the amber side repeaters were significantly dulled. 22-odd years in the sunshine'll do that, particularly the UV down here. I noticed these aftermarket TYR units at a particularly reasonable circa 5 euros each during a parts order from Spareto, so dropped them into my order. They took about 12 mins all up to install. A quick wipe over with detailing mist, pop out, clean up, SRP, install.... figure out why they weren't working. Oh, bulb carrier included, though not the bulb! Uninstall, remove bulb holder, install bulb from original, re-attach, re-install, test okay. Fig 1: At the start... fig. 2: Job's a good one. Second time round, at least! Of course, after that the left-hand was swift. Not Suzuki. Quick! FIg. 3: Left Hand, dulled by years of sun Fig. 4: Removed, ready to retrieve bulb from bulb-holder FIg. 5: Left hand done, shining like a diamond in a goat's ass (as that feller from TX says). Hint: you don't need a screwdriver or spludger tool. Just push horizonally toward the rear of the car, then then gently lever out the front edge (against the clip - see Fig. 4 above). I did it without tools. To disconnect from the vehicle wiring, press the lever on the connector. To remove the bulb holder from the fitting, twist approx 30 degrees. Right then, on to the next one.

@Mad_Max Geordie mate, how is that B11 coming along, have I missed updates?

that wrap was very, very impressive.

FWIW I run 245/40R17 on my rears, Style 194 on e46. it's the right circumference and fit for e46 staggered setup on Style 68. 245/40R17 probably the closest thing with a few more options than Bridgestone RE-050 runflats in 255/40R17. Unless you're running with a spare tyre, you will want runflats again. Another option is to get square setup rims and whatever the standard tyre size is for E9x with factory square setup.

You don't want 225/45R17 on the rear - it's a stretch. On the 8.5" wide rear you want the 255/40R17 as recommended. Why would you not want 255/40R17?

no question the v8 reportedly has the best balance and greater simplicity than the V12... but if you want it, you want it!

man that's cheap. what specs does it cover?

I like it.

Good move. I sourced a new Denso compressor from FCP for our e46 some years ago (six or seven?), 'the real mccoy' far more reasonably priced than local options. Touch wood it has been faultless.

@fast&curious welcome! you'll certainly be much safer in the e82 if you insist on revisiting that tree-hugging past. I know what you mean; I hurled my MKII Golf GTi 16v (1800) around a bit in north america. Getting into my first bmw (e30 325i Touring) in London was a huge step up in engineering and manufacturing quality. I don't have much advice re the 135i. Other than research your mods carefully. Don't forget to replace all those vac pipes... boost leaks ruin the ownership experience. There'll be someone along soon to help you with your addiction. I'm sorry sir, this isn't rehab. We're all addicts here, none of us in recovery. You're amongst friends here. Welcome to Break My Wallet.

@Bmwfan87 welcome to the crazy zone. We're not all crazy in here, but it helps! You're amongst friends - we all dig the BMWs. 'Break My Wallet'. The asolute best thing you can do is google "so you bought an e60". It's a PDF you can download, it's updated from time to time, gives you an amazing amount of info, what pain points to look at, what you can expect to spend to run one. Produced by one of the US forums. The e60 was the best - class leading - mid-sized executive express for years. There's plenty that's great about them. Go into it with your eyes open; if you think you can buy it cheap and run it like a Camry, it has other things in mind, and you're going to be enjoying a wallet-ectomy, and it's sure to end in tears. They like maintenance, and they like parts. If you can't work on it yourself, find an excellent independent you can trust. These are not the domain of your local garage. They have excellent brakes and great handling. The suspension system is more sophisticated than 3ers or (say) Camry's, and so when it's time to replace, it's not just bushes - it's wishbones with many more parts than other cars of the same size. Brakes aren't so bad on the sixes - there are many OEM and Aftermarket options. The V8s run an aluminium hat that no OEM produces. Water leaks (ingress of rain water) will kill your e60 faster than anything; multiple computer modules all over the car get flooded if the drains get blocked. Strangely, they're strategically placed by clever German engineers in places that will with water in unfavourable conditions. The ZF 6speed trans is superb. At 125k kms it'll need a service. Fluid flush, new pan (integrated filter), bolts, mechatronic sleeve. The BMW lifetime fill is B.S. - ZF themselves recommend regular maintenance. If you luck out and find one with Dynamic Drive (active anti-roll) you're in for a treat. Mine gave zero trouble in seven years. Active Steering is fab, though the rack is a sh*t to change and expensive to replace in event of failure. BMW acheived better weight distribution and rigidity over the previous model with extensive use of aluminium... even the schocks and struts use aluminium housings. Everything forward of the windscreen is aluminium. The structure is bonded with adhesive and riveted; so repair costs are huge. These days they're usually written off after an accident as uneconomic to repair. You may find insurance is more expensive than comparable cars. Maybe it's dropping as more fall off the road. YMMV. The e60 is a really rewarding car to drive, still looks great twenty years later (they were polarising on release). Just go in with your eyes open. I loved every minute of mine (a 545i) for seven years. V8 features 50:50 weight distro in a comfy car with ~330-350 hp that goes stops and handles more like a sports car than a limousine. You know you want one.So You Just Bought an E60 (V3.9).pdf Did I mention it's not your grandma's Camry. Find that PDF. I've attached an old one in case your google foo ain't up to it.

I was wondering how to find out more about steering-wheel integration with the Kenwood KMM-BT308. ChatGPT had this to say: To integrate your Kenwood KMM-BT408 head unit with the steering wheel controls of your BMW E46, you'll need a compatible steering wheel control adapter. The BMW E46 utilizes data-based steering wheel controls, which require an adapter to translate the data signals into a format that the Kenwood unit can interpret. E46 Fanatics Recommended Adapter: The Enfig SRWH-BM1 is a plug-and-play adapter designed specifically for BMW vehicles, including the E46. This adapter connects directly to your vehicle's wiring harness and interfaces with the Kenwood head unit, allowing seamless control via the steering wheel buttons. E46 Fanatics Installation Steps: Purchase the Adapter: Obtain the Enfig SRWH-BM1 adapter from an authorized retailer. Connect to Vehicle Harness: Plug the adapter into your BMW E46's factory wiring harness. This connection is typically straightforward, as the adapter is designed to match the vehicle's connectors. Connect to Kenwood Head Unit: Attach the adapter's output to the steering wheel control input on the Kenwood KMM-BT408. Refer to the Kenwood manual for the exact location of this input. Programming (if necessary): Some adapters may require programming to map the steering wheel buttons to specific functions on the head unit. Follow the instructions provided with the adapter for this process. Additional Considerations: Compatibility: Ensure that the adapter is compatible with both your BMW E46 model year and the Kenwood KMM-BT408. Professional Installation: If you're not comfortable with car audio installations, consider seeking professional assistance to ensure proper integration. By using the appropriate adapter, you can retain the functionality of your BMW E46's steering wheel controls with your Kenwood KMM-BT408 head unit, enhancing both safety and convenience. Sources

welcome to the Tractor Gang! Jebus but they do like their codes. And tyres. And brakes. And transfer case and diff issues. #1 hint: ensure tyre sizes are in-spec. My brother had an e53 3.0 Sport diesel when new. Stunned me, made a real impression. Followed. Looking forward to learning of your exploits. Guidance for cars that your spouse carries your offspring around in: they shall always be over-maintained, and they shall never leave your spouse stranded with your offspring.

Date: 11 Nov 2024 Distance: N/A kms 1. Parts gathered.... Diff, and Front ARB Great news. The parts car produced a decent diff. Jon @ Begley Motor Worx has now degreased, prepped, painted the replacement 3.46, new seals all round incl BMW sealant on the cover. Ready to go with Penrite Synthetic. Fig. 1 what a diff'rence a day makes 24mm front ARB sourced from Hell BM (Thanks Ray!). I'll strip, prep, paint when it arrives. It's 5 years since we did the rocker cover gasket, so I've sourced a replacement (Elring) with bolt seals, and new BMW washers. Fifteen of the buggers! BMW part number 11127838077 (for ref). Nearly ready to sort it out. 2. Next items list: Replace right rear tyre (or both rears) - it's at 2.9mm Fit Replacement diff (e46 medium case) 3.46 (including the two small bushes, input and output seals, fill and drain bungs, oil, rear cover sealant) Replace the Power Steering fluid reservoir Top-end oil leak - replace valve cover gasket. Prep and install replacement 24mm front ARB New sunroof seal (Part ready to fit) Install that Msport steering wheel with the stereo integration, have sourced a post-Takata recall airbag from the parts wagon. Clean and rust paint the surface rust on rear subframe Then in near future I'll get into the stereo as per this thread... Next year: could be time for Lesjofors MSport springs, and either Sachs Msport shocks or Konis. Jeez, next April we'll have had this car 13 years. What would an Olaf update be without a musical reference? Let's take a trip back to 70's disco-pop with Esther Phillips 😄