Olaf

I've bought one of these from @modz (as well as other parts, over the years). Buy with confidence! A jolly good fellow.

bump - still seeking. Not a 23.5mm please, it's the P/N 31351094542 24.0mm item. Anyone?

I recommend you replace anything that is single-use. RealOEM has indications. And surely you're following at least the Bentley Manual for this job, if not the BMW Service information - TIS? It's not a job to cheap-out on. Do it once and do it right. Regarding the pan bolts, they've been through a large number of temperature cycles... often BMW or ZF (for transmissions) change material for the bolts; replacing them ensures you get the appropriate material. Think back to M20 head bolts. Saving $200 on a $4k-6k job is folly.

oh yes, @Vass mentioned Rockauto, they can be pretty good... if they have part from the manufacturer you want (they helpfully grade their offerings by quality level), and of you're buying multiple parts *and* you find they're supplied from the same location. Freight charges from multiple locations can add up with Rockauto, be cautious. I used to use a freight aggregator in FL (MyUS.com), gave them up a year or two ago as I was buying less from the USA and their service levels declined around Covid and never came back. I'll try Shipito next time I need an agregator.

So Grey Thunder has been languishing in the garage for a couple of years... I've pulled it out infrequently to run it up to temp, give it a splash of sunshine, a gentle wipe-over with detailing mist when the dustcover comes off. It's dry and undercover, just waiting for it's time for the project to re-commence. I've been picking away at the parts list. Bits sourced and added to the stash: Brand new Mahle/Behr heater matrix to replace the used one we put in back in 2019. Luckily I took a pic of the part number at the time! Internal plastic weathershielding for behind the door panels. Sourced all the seals & bearings, (pinion and output), to rebuild the 4.10 small case diff for the M42 swap. I already have a diff housing gasket, drain and fill plugs, and a Coreteco diff mount (my last - they're no longer made - I think the only aftermarket one that's sold now that's similar to OEM is the Moog item). Sourced all cooling system hoses for the M42B18 (not just the big ones, all the ancilliaries too) Spare e30 window winder (can't believe they've nearly doubled in price since I last bought one) - now USD61.99 New DME and Fuel Pump relays Got a Barina/Corsa steering linkage - still needs to visit a driveshaft specialist. New e46 rack inners, to replace the used ones and go with the new e36 outers on the Purple Tag rack. Antother rack bellows kit to replace the ones I used on my e46. I finally put a BMW Car Club sticker on it. Next steps... it's time to get out the Right Hand Drive 318iS loom and clean it, perhaps replace the tessa tape. Certainly clean all of the contacts. And I'll clean off the 4.10 diff and take it up to Begley Motor Works for a rebuild in a month or so. Blue Thunder on Ori Bay - winter 2023?

Yep if you want the real deal buy now from Weitz - next month you might have to buy a car to get one. And then it might not be the real thing. First thing you should replace as a priority is all of your rubber fuel lines, including those to the tank. Before your car needs carbon credits. Welcome (back) to e30 ownership.

1. FCP Euro, Schmeidmann, Spareto. 2. For used classic, try Begley Motor Works. Newer stuff, BM World in Papakura or Weitz Industries in Hamilton. Possibly SD European. 3. Your best friend for sourcing part numbers is about to become RealOEM.com HTH

thanks @Neal your experience appreciated. Pics of how to route cables through the door connector would be most welcome, thank you. So - given I'm not going particularly sophisticated - no fancy external DSP unit or DSP-equipped amp) - other than the basic trickery offered in the Kenwood KMM-BT408 (Digital Time Alignment, 13 band EQ, and 3-way X-over), should I use the Alpine amp active on the fronts, or use it passive to both sets? Probably help if I RTFM for the Kenwood...

Holy thread resuscitation batman. Nathan, I think I can do this. I have a cunning plan. And 3D scanning software on my phone, and a 3D printer generously given to me by a friend with a proliferation of them. I'm going to learn. First step, getting a scan of each side while I quickly replace first factory 2-ways with some free Alpines that came in a parts car. Then second stage, knock up something like those, based on cutting out the doors, using pre-printed parts - less downtime for the car as still no garage. I'm getting ahead of myself. Time to update the objectives, and my current solution. 1. Audio. As before, I listen to music. I used to be an audiophile. I'm more a 'flat earther' - the whole Linn/Naim thing from the 70's/80's that focuses on PRaT (Pace, Rythmn, and Timing). Conclusion? The car still remains a sh*t place to listen to music in. I want a better experience than 20+ year old factory. I want handsfree calling, playing 44.16 WAV files from USB, sometimes Spotify from my phone. Don't give me typical Japanese Audio with cut-glass highs and slow plodding over-blown one-note bass. I want TIMING, TIMING, TIMING, I want fast, tuneful bass, I wasnt it musical, baby. I am not looking for a disco in my car! 2. The car. The factory head unit stays. Kenwood Mechless Head Unit. This is a compromise. They look good, sound pretty good, have three sets of RCA output and some equalisation options that are 'enough' for me. I want integration with multi-Function Steering Wheel (which will be added soon). I listen to WAV files, FM, and Bluetooth sometimes. The Kenwood option works beautifully with an iPhone once paired, and is seamless for my wife using the car with her iPhone too. I can't be arsed with a double-DIN android unit or cabling a camera, useful as it may be. And the Kenwood is CHEAP. My car lives on the street - it must be stealth. I will not sacrifice trunk space and utility for a sub box. Any sub must be small, tight, tuneful - either mounted in the side panel, or abover the space saver spare in the trunk floor. I realise with a small box it probably constrains me to a small driver; this is a compromise I can live with. My sub must not be lagging behind the music; it's about sound reinforcement, not SPL sound-offs. It must be removable/reversible. it'll be a one-way job. Though the amp may stay with me. Who knows. 3. The work: I'm past massive fabrication work. I don't mind the idea of building a custom-fit sub box, but speaker pods and all that malarky, no thanks. I'm impressed by what others do, I'm sticking to 'simple'. Some dynamat in key places to quiet things down/stiffen things up: yes, by all means! 4. What am I thinking? Some free used 2-way component speakers in the front, an amp, and a maybe a sub, and a new HU. I read this from Audio-file In Car, UK and thought "I know the Audio File from my time in UK, they did Naim and real british HiFi... this is probably a good approach to music in the car" (as opposed to screechy in-car entertainment)... So as a base kit list (doesn't seem cheap - can I do similar and still avoid awful screechy out of time ICE for less money: Front door speakers: Alpine Type-S SPS171A 6.5" component two-ways. copyright Crutchfield. Having no skills with 3D printing, will not be a barrier to success. I now have scanning app on my phone, a 3D printer, and guidance from an expert. I figure I'll install the Alpines into stock position with simple adaptor rings (I found a decent file on the thingiverse), dope the door panels with Dynamat or similar. While I'm in there, I'll scan the area so that I can suss out a model of those door pods and then build some out of scrap, install later. Ultimately I'm more likely to replace the Alpines with better speakers of same size in future. Rear speakers: I guess I'll replace them with some co-axial Focal or MB Quart or similar. Mostly because they'll be f#%ked after 22 years. As it's such as hassle to get in there in the touring I'd prefer to do it just the once! Still not sure if they're 6x9 standard, or 6.5". Amplifier: The parts car netted an Alpine MRP-F250 (needs bench test), and some Alpine Type-S SPS171A 6.5" component two-ways in the front that'll suffice for a start. Alpine MRP-F250 as found in my parts car (photo credit - Jon Begley). "Free parts" fit my current budget. I'll get 8ga (or 6ga) to a 3-way distro block behind the back seat, feed the alpine from it, and provides for another amp or two in future. I am assuming Class D efficiency in future so unlikely I'll need anything beefier. I'll run three stereo RCA interconnects from HU to amp position, one long enough to snake around to left side storage bin in case that's needed. I'll be sourcing parts from Aliexpress to keep budget low. I will be sure to find full copper cable with silicone jacket, rather than tinned aluminium etc. I think it's an okay compromise, I'm looking for "better" and "good enough" without going nuts on cables etc. - Head Unit: I'm going to replace the HU with a Kenwood KMM-BT408, as soon as I have the multi-function wheel in and functioning. It's the more up-to-date version of what I have in Grey Thunder. It'll sacrifice that beautiful design for some practicality - I play WAV files from USB stick and (rarely) bluetooth audio from iPhone; my Wife will most likely play Spotify from her iPhone; we both use radio. The phone integration will be great for hands-free calling. We simply run nav via Waze or Google for navigation, with our phones on a mag cradle in one of the vents - no need for a double-din unit, added cost and complexity - though the rear camera wouldve been good. You can't have it all. - Other: Multi-function Wheel integration unit. I know nothing about these. - Other: what if I want to amp-up the rear load area speakers later - if I went active in front with the first amp? Questions: 1. Front Speakers Cabling: So do I run the front pair active off of the Alpine Amp, and power the rear speakers from the HU? Or keep it simple and wire in the Alpines with their crossover, and keep the install pretty vanilla with each amp channel running one corner? I guess I'll be running speaker cables whatever I do. I'll need to check, I think with the base audio in my Japanese market touring I don't have looms to cut into at the back. 2. HU Integration: which is the best looking/fitting e46 dash trim unit? 3. HU/Multi-function integration unit: Whose is best value for money to get Kenwood HU talking to BMW volume, call answer etc? 4. Cabling: I figure I'll go Aliexpress. Three pairs of interconnects, install em once. Speaker Cabling? Am assuming I don't need to go crazy, though for simplicity may need to run my own - I don't think the Japanese market Touring had boot mounted amps unless with HK system, so am not expecting to find factory connectors to marry into. That's it folks. Shouldn't tie me in knots.

@Cammsport did you find one yet?

Yes, oil analysis will tell you much about the state of the bearings. But hey you're committed, you've bought the parts. My knowlege of these engines - all the BMW M engines - is that whatever oil you run, it needs to have the right 'stuff' in it, not just be the right grade. Eg - you may find subtle yet important differences between retail Edge 10W60 and what BMW spec. Some people say this sh*t is irrelevant... Your mileage may vary. One supposes you've done a bottom end refresh on other vehicles, previously?

Going to update the audio thread here

the MOST disturbing aspect of that article is it did not describe the offender as a "former employee of NZTA". For such such serious misconduct she should have been sacked. Immediately. Why was the Privacy Commissioner not asked for comment in the story - lazy pisstake journalists. The employee can never be trusted again to access such information again. A massive breach of trust for the pubic in a government organisation, NZTA again a bloody failure. Jesus, it's PII - Personally Identifiable Information - which usually classifies as at least CONFIDENTIAL. For access to data of this classification, there's usually risk assessment carried out (Privacy Impact Assessment) on the data and and Security Risk Assessment of systems used to store it; and of the people who have access to the data - a security clearance, which is updated periodically. It is up to the holder to report any change in circumstances to their privacy and security officer, such as "I'm now dating a Gang Member" or "I engage in dogging" or "I like to make a quick buck by selling data". /rant For those interested, plenty to learn on the subject here: https://www.protectivesecurity.govt.nz/classification

Looks like good buying, well done. I agree with above, oil analysis. Seller statement all Castrol Edge 10W60 incorrect, Werkstadt segments have indicated Fuchs F1 used on at least one, FWIW. Careful maintenance should see fun running. LCI updated rod bearing specs IIRC? A steal overall. You've bought at a price that covers plenty of remedial maintenance to bring it up to brilliant and a great driver.

I think anyone buying an 8er expecting them to rise significantly in value is an optimist. They're unquestionably a cool car, though complexity is high/niche and popularity is a short side on that triangle. If I had a garage space and some idle money, I'd keep the space empty and invest in the NASDAQ.

More electrical faults caused by those nasty connectors than twisted wires! I appreciate it's fairly straightforward, unfortunately I don't have a large array of connector pins at my disposal or a decent space to work in. I should get my sh*t sorted, get some pins and a new crimper. Wow, that's a very generous offer, thanks. I guess we have a whole parts car I could do the same with (albeit a couple of hours north of me); I won't ask others to do what I wouldn't do myself 🤔. Time's tight so I'll pay for the kit. I do remember them being USD21 - had it on my parts list for ages. Thanks I'll take a look. also time to get a new crimper kit and some of those heat shrink solder jointy things. I'm a former Telecommunications tech, anything less than an excellent connection is a fault waiting to happen!

I've found 61120016012 on FCP at a very reasonable USD43, part number matches for everything I've found on 'retrofit multi-function steering wheel BMW e46'. I also found the attached PDF - though the part numbers referred to in the instructions don't mention 61120016012. Unable to find 61120016012 on a parts search in RealOEM? EDIT: This is a very succinct retrofit video: steeringwheel.pdf

https://barrysgarage.co.nz/product/autoglym-hi-tech-wheel-brush/

welcome Paul! There's now a Northland chapter of the BMW Car Club NZ, based in Whangarei... plenty of local camerarderie too!

The e60 is particularly battery sensitive. Bad battery - all sorts of errors, as there's a sh*t-ton of sensors, and (if I recall correctly) about 13 modules in the car? You'll also want to check if the IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) update has been completed on your e60. It's a recall in other countries, not in NZ though! Mega important - battery registration must be completed on installation of a new battery. Includes capacity, date etc and tells the ECU to reset its parameters and charge for a new battery instead of an aging one. I put in a Koba AGM and had very good experience, in my old e60 545i. Hope that helps. Oh, and get the biggest capacity (there's a large-size (taller) DIN88L in the preference to DIN88 (or whatever the and most cold cranking amps you can). Anyone that spouts 'that's the price of driving a BMW' while holding out their hand for your money is best avoided - what a f#&kknuckle. Welcome, BTW!

Get an Auto Glym wheel brush, and Auto Glym Clean Wheels, and you'll be sorted. The brush makes cleaning difficult rims a breeze, it's the best I've used. @Autoglym is the bloke to talk to.

Hi Folks I need a 24mm front antirollbar for my e46, it's P/N 31351094542 usually found on motorsport models. In very good to excellent condition, not pitted/rusty where the bushes sit. I'm in Wellington. Happy to pay freight too.

Perhaps I can make a contribution on the audio front to our collective knowledge on Touring audio - at least if I can be arsed doing it myself! I did initially think of the double-din android units like you and @adro have done, though can't be arsed on the extra cost of the unit and running in a Camera (as useful as that would be). I'd rather spend the extra on Konis 😊

So I finally got a replacement diff. Thanks to Jon for finding the car, a non-running M54B25 325i Touring, pre facelinft slicktop. It was quite a mission, aligning help from different mates. Won the auction, kindly lent car trailer by another mate. Road trip! All the way to Taranaki in my freshly-serviced F25 X3 X-Drive 30D, to pick up a 2000 325i Touring with the all-important 3.46 diff. Couldn't have done it without help of friends. Dragging the parts car home, Taranaki Diesel Fillup in Wanganui Having got back to Welly with a 700km round-trip day, I reflected on how well the X3 tows. The trailer towed well, the little X3 just torqued away. It turned out the oil that came out of the diff is nice and clean. Sadly the alternator had been nicked. Bonus was some speakers and an amp. Got some spare mirrors. And the post-recall airbag for sports steering wheel, so I'll be able to fit that wheel and get the steering wheel controls working, code up cruise control with luck (research needed). The rest of the parts car is now Jon's to part-out - so if you've been wanting to build an e46 Touring race car now's your chance! Nice clean oil out of the new diff. Photo: Jon @ Begley Motor Works Next weekend was Matariki, so I cleaned Blue Zoo and prepped it to take on a car club trip to the Wairarapa. Still such a fun car to drive. [EDIT] The Suspension is tiring, feeling a bit worn. [/EDIT] I think it's worth sorting out. The Hawk HPS pads are working beautifully. The ANSA replacement exhaust has a nicer rasp to it. Barely any louder, just a slightly different note. Ideal. Blue Zoo in the Wairarapa, 29 June 2024 So I need a FRONT Anti roll bar 24mm: P/N 31351094542 in excellent condition. Can anyone help? And it's time to get sorted with the Diff replacement, get the steering wheel swap done, and get some sounds sorted. I'll go for a Kenwood mechless head (like in Grey Thunder), fit the Alpine amp, and two-way component speakers in the front door to replace the factory units. I guess the boot speakers will be knackered too so I'll replace them. I'll also need to make sure I can use the steering wheel controls with new stereo, so there'll be a conversion unit there too. Perhaps August/September.

Awesome progress! god loves an e46 touring! Took mine on a club trip last weekend, the M54B25 certainly isn't quick like a B30, though the car remains enjoyable to drive. Going to hunt back through your thread looking at speakers and amplifier areas.