Herbmiester

Tempted hmmmm.

I know low is all about the look but 60mm is just asking for trouble. I would go 100mm min and allow the suspension some chance of doing its job. I assume you realise that when you go super low the factory geometry is all out of whack, handling goes out the window and bumps that normal sport height can handle can throw you off the road?

Quite stunning cars ok as well.

Try Demon Tweeks in the UK. There shipping rates are very good compared to what you pay out of the USA. For basic Bilstein b4s (Sachs Equivalent) fronts are NZD 212 and rears are 100 NZD. Shipping will likely be around 120 NZD.

I used Koni strt's on my E 36 and there was a noticeable difference. NZ prices can be a bit high, try the UK.

Great work, I admire your resolve. I am doing the front struts and springs on my e92 with M3 arms, any tips on fitting it all? I did M3 arms on the rear of my e92 along with stiffer springs and Konis and it is noticeably better in corners.

I think the 330 e46 brakes require a new master cylinder to work optimally? Up front I used E46 328i rotors and caliper carriers, this will give you an extra 15mm rotor diameter and you can keep your original calipers. I did this with Hawk pads and it worked well. Outback e46 325/328i calipers, caliper carriers and rotors, these will work with you handbrake.

My E Mountain Bike can do 80 plus Km but I still have to pedal.

Penrite HPR 5w 40 is on sale at Repco $47 for 6l. It says it is suitable as a BMW LL01 replacement. Good price for 6l of fully synthetic.

Yeah well aware of the burble issues Linear throttle mapping in there but I am running V6 maps so maybe they are gone for V7? I am in Welly but if in AKL I will make contact for sure.

I have been running MHD Stage 1+ for about 12 months now and have had no issues. I have an AMS intercooler and VRSF charge pipe. I tried linear throttle mapping but didn't like it. I am keen to move to stage 2 but will need to remove the cats. My question for those that have removed the cats is how tricky is it? At Stage 1 + I am pretty happy but my issue is traction especially off the line. I might look at the torque limitation option but would be keen on people's opinions here. I could of course get off my arse and order an LSD and fix things properly.

What is the story with rod bearings in the e90 m3? Does the V10 m5 have the same issue? I belive the v8 is based on the v10.

No not 100% sure it was the clock spring but the old clock spring did have an open circuit where the replacement does not. Also the problem does seem to be pretty widespread with a number of articles being written on the subject that exactly mirror the symptoms I have. My main issue is that I have lost a bit of faith in the VW Skoda dealer, I won't go into detail but every service requires a second visit.

So my wifes 2011 Octavia had an issue with the clock spring/slip ring which is a pretty common fault on VAG vehicles using that platform. Anyway I replaced the clock sring but I cannot resent the fault codes using either my DCAN cable or my Bluetooth OBD2 device. I have used a few different programs including Torque which seems to read every other OBD2 car I have connected it to but no the Skoda. To be clear I can connect my OBD2 device but it can't make a connection with the car. Any thoughts?

To expand on this then if Nissan sees fit to use studs rather than bolts on its GTR (Just one example of a performance car using studs) then I would say there is probably very little if any reason to worry. What is more important is the design of the hub the diameter of the bolts/studs etc.. Of the pointless arguments on this forum over the years bolts vs studs could be the winner.

Any fix yet?

All pretty much irrelevant for a street car.

Great price a lot of car for the money and oh the potential!

I am stragely attracted. Do I need help?

Very pretty

Curious as to what those reason are?

Try heading to Martinborough then out via Longbush road to Gladstone, then on to TeWhiti Rd and then turn off onto Masterton Stronvar Rd. When you get to Westmare road you can go north and head to Castlepoint or south and loop back to Gladstone and have lunch at the Gladstone pub.

Also 300hp is not 360-380 HP as Ron mentioned.

Cams are not cheap, regrinding the originals is not recommended and schrick cams are pretty expensive. fitting them is not for everyone and while I dont doubt the engine made 300hp I wonder what else was done, headers I assume and a retune of the ECU all that could easily cost 3k or more. The fact is that if the M54 was easily tunable for noticable HP everyone would do it. It's not like an N54 where picking up big HP and torque is child's play.