Herbmiester

Sadly JG in Wellington have been a bit of a disappointment for me. I asked in detail about an intake port clean on my 335i even sent them a video link, first reply was never head of it before and probably unnecessary, so I sent him a video and asked if he could check with BMW NZ and sadly no reply. I even sent him told him BMW make the tool for putting in the intake port for the clean to happen.

E36 Coupes are so pretty.

Yes probably not fair comparing it to a fairly well modded E46, so when the shocks and arms are done it will be a fairer match up. That said my E46 even with its handling prowess would get slayed on the straights by the 335.

Perhaps when I take off the drivers side wheel to install the Konis and the M3 Control arms I will find it. I will say that my E46 still pips it for handling but with shocks and arms etc the 335i might close the gap. That said I think the chassis is still very good but its really just a side show to the engine. What a great engine, just so much useable power everywhere.

Pictures please Fred, lets see the coolness.

Lloyd I had a530i E60 for a while and it was quite a sharp handling car; after I got rid of the runflats, replaced the leaking from shocks and replaced the front control arms as the bushings were shot. After that I swapped in a set of M Sport springs I picked up off Trademe for a couple of hundred dollars and it was quite a decent handling car. I ran Good year Eagle F1 directionals and they worked well, latterly I have used Bridgestone Potenza RE 003's, which if you wait until the buy one get one free sale that happens twice a year you will get a pretty decent tyre for not a lot of money.

I thought about doing a project thread but wasn't sure if there was enough interest in the more modern BMWs. Maybe I will get the moderators to move it to the project section. I had the pleasure of driving a 335i and m3 on the same day the m3 front end was very accurate, the stiffer bushes in the control armsystem should tighten things up a bit and the extra camber should add some corner grip.

So now that I have owned my 335i for 2 weeks I am already in search of more power but before I do that I felt it was pertinent to address some of the N54's short comings. First and foremost in my mind anyway is the PCV system. The internet says that the PCV valve on the N54 is average at best and in some cases downright useless especially when boost levels are raised. This is also apparently a big contributor to the carbon build on the inlet valves which rob power reduce throttle response and effect fuel economy. With all that said I decide that for the price of an upgraded PCV valve and an Oil Catch Can it was cheapish insurance. The PCV Valve is made by RB turbo in the USA http://www.rbturbo.com/products/accessories/rbpcv Shipping was $10 USD and it arrived 6 days after ordering it. The Oil Catch Can is made by Mishimoto and I bought this along with some M3 control arms from FCP Euro https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-black-baffled-oil-catch-can-mishimoto-mmbcc-n54-06cbe not sure on shipping as it was part of a bigger order. The yanks say that with an upgraded PCV the need for a catch can is less. That said I chose to do both because I am OCD and think that DI engines need super clean inlet systems. Your make think otherwise and opinions are like arseholes; everyone has one. Fitting was pretty straight forward and it took my just over 2 hours with a few breaks for beer, sore back and a chat with the Hot chick who rides a horse on my property. The images below will show the main points you have to be aware of. I would say that if can do basic mechanical work this is well within your capabilities. There are a few videos on YouTube showing how to remove the cabin filter assembly but you start off with the cable wire harness. Pull up on the front tabs then remove, then use a small screwdriver and remove the tray from the main panel. I left my cable in the tray but the internet says to remove the tray. There is one cable left and it slots out the same way tray does, I found it easier to just remove the cable and leave the clip unit attached to the panel. The main panel is held on by 8mm bolts, 2 fine thread on the sides and 6 course thread on the centre section. You also need to remove the covers for the Brake unit and whatever it covers n the left side, these are held on with clips and toggles there are also a couple of toggles for the main panel in this area as well. There are also a couple of sensors on each side of the main tray remove them by unclipping and twisting out and lay then in the side gutters of the engine. Once bolts and sensors are removed just wiggle the panel out toward you and slightly upwmards. When its out it will look like this. Note the cabin panel filter comes out first then the main panel. Next is the engine cover there are 4 5mm allen bolts, once these are out the engine cover slide forward under the cables. Next I replaced the PCV Valve, that's it circled in red. Use a 13mm spanner to get it off. The internet says that removing the rear fuel pipe makes this much easier, I would have to agree. It also makes it easier to get the flapper valve (next to it on the left off as well. The fuel is under pressure so you will get around 15-20 ml leak out so wait until the engine has cooled down before doing this. I then removed the flapper valve This has somewhat fiddly clip but be gentle as you need to reuse this part. The clip is best attacked with a couple of small flat head screw drivers. note the rear fuel rail is removed do not use excessive torque when reinstalling; it nips up tight with very little torque. Here is a top down of the PCV valve. This can be pulled out with a pair of long nosed pliers. Here are the two PCV valves the RB on the left and the stock unit on the right. Note the sock unit has threads but but it is just a push fit. To fit the new PCV valve insert it into the housing and then screw it back in. Note there is a big O ring that in this case had stayed in the engine cover housing. Pull it out fit it to the screw in housing. if you leave it in the engine cover it will be a pain in the butt to screw it back in. Once this back in and tight the PCV valve upgrade is done. The flapper valve assembly needs to separated from the attached tube. Be careful; I recommend using a hairdryer or heat gun to make the plastic pliable so it pulls off easily. Once you have done this replace the flapper valve back on the fitting on the engine cover. The catch can hoses can now be fitted. The 180 degree hose is the outlet and it gets attached to the other side of the flapper valve hose port that was removed. Route the hoses to the front of the engine bay as per the photos further down. This is how the two hoses will look when when fitted to the ports that were bridged by the flapper valve hose. Next screw the Oil Catch Can to the bracket with the supplied 2mm allen bolts and attach the bracket to the power steering reservoir. Now you can push the hoses on; the 90 degree hose goes to port marked out and the straight hose that is attached to the flapper valve goes to port marked in. There is no need to retaining clips as this whole unit is under vacuum not pressure. Put the engine cover back and dont drop a 5mm bolt into the engine compartment never to be found again. Fit the cabin filter panels back in place. fit the wiring harness tray and the side covers for the brake unit etc and your done. It should look a bit like this. Next up is the intake port/valve media blast and by then the downpipes, intercooler and charge pipe should have arrived. It will also have the M3 front control arms installed along with some Koni Yellows.

Bought the penrite all done so the next owner of my e46 will have a t least 10.000 kms before a change.

Not sure if it's me either but the more I look at it the more I like it.

I must be weird then, mind you I also think E36's are much better looking than E30's.

I have to admit a secret like of X3's especially in Silver. Please dont hate me.

My Nephew has a 96 318is with an M44, which has died, I suspect he has either overheated it or because it had an oil leak he has let it get low on oil and it has seized. So any Hawkes Bay members who have an M44 for sale let me know. As a bonus if you can install it then even better.

I will wait until the boss gets back as he is very good, not so sure about the staff when it comes to the complicated stuff.

The BMS dual cone seems to be the best bang for buck intake. I forgot to mention I picked up a set of near new Forge Motorsport Diverter valves as well. A tune is definitely on the cards but I just want to get all the bits and pieces in place first. MHD is my first choice for tuning, they seem to be the most advanced at this stage.

I am sure its an addiction but even before I picked up my 335i I already had parts coming for it. So for I have: RB Turbo PCV Valve. Supposedly this will hold pressure better than the stock plastic one. Mishimoto Baffled Oil Catch can. As I plan on extracting a bit more HP I want to manage the amount of oil getting back into induction system. Koni Sport shocks. Will leave the M sport springs in for the mean time. TRW M3 Tension struts and Control Arms. Heavy duty bushings and a wee bit more camber. Next step will be a charge pipe, bigger intercooler, and some form of replacement air filter. But before all this is fitted I will get a media blast of the intake ports. THe E90 is a different experience form the E46, you ride a bit higher and while the steering is a bit faster and a little more direct the E46 chassis seems a little more communicative. But to be fair my E46 has some pretty decent suspension.

So Supercheap has Castrol Edge 5w40 on sale at present and it does have a BMW LL01 rating. Is this a suitable oil for the N54 engine?

18's all the way even 19's are too much.

Koni Yellows are affordable when not bought in NZ. With the UK pound tanking try Demon Tweeks.

Good writeup, I did the same to my 330ci about a year ago and it made a noticeable difference to the idle quality.

So how do you use It?

If you watch this video it gives a rundown on how the process works. Start at around 14 mins if you dont want to watch the manifold removal. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnMhNXXawjk&t=632s

Sounds messy. The walnut system is easy and proven.

I would just get a diff from a low KM wrecked car. Small case I think.

True but I only did because it pissed me off, if I had said any more I may have become a bit rude.