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adro

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Posts posted by adro


  1. Installed a GROM unit as per @BozzaFC recommendation. It is a bit pricey for what it is but it does it's job very effectively.

    I got this one:

    https://gromaudio.com/store/bt3_adapters/bmw-mini-98-05-bluetooth-adapter-car-kit-behind-the-radio-connector.html

    with the 3.5mm and USB charger cable.

    I'm loving being able to run spotify via bluetooth and still use the steering controls to skip tracks.

    Bit of ghetto install using the posi things....should probably solder them eventually.

    NB: you gotta disconnect the CD stacker at the stacker also..

    47004844344_49c4563e89_b.jpg32850618227_e8daf4b658_b.jpg47004844154_023affee5d_b.jpg

    No more tape adapter for me ?

    Is it even an E39 if your pixels ARE working?? ?

    • Like 4

  2. 7 minutes ago, BreakMyWindow said:

    I think the s705A rears need to be paired with the longer M-tech 2 progressive rear springs. I am 99% certain the M-tech 1 rear springs are shorter and s704A shocks are also shorter to suit. If you can compare the lengths of the shocks that would be a good way to be sure.

    OK cool, thank you. I didn't notice a difference in length in the front, other than the nut being 22mm instead of 21.


  3. 217,890km

    New shocks up front.

    I've gone with:

    Part #: SAC-556838 - these are the S704A shock instead of the S705A, I only figured this out after I had already put one in. All i'm noticing is the car is smoother now and my bank account isn't as far in the red as if I had of gone S705A route. I am abit annoyed i didn't figure this out sooner and as I've been sitting on everything but the shocks for almost a year. I probably would have gone the koni yellow route as it's kind of the in between price wise (still way cheaper than S705A though, but i really don't want it any stiffer). Now I'm in a bit of dilemma as to what I do with the rears....do I replace them with more S704A shocks or get S705A..? All i can find on the internet is that the S705A package is valved to handle the extra weight of the M62TU and designed for a staggered wheel set up....I'll wait for you guys to lash me for being so ignorant first ?

    BMW Strut bearing Part #: BMW-31331090612

    Lemforder strut mount Part #:LEM-2180801

    BMW bump stop Part #:BMW-31331138814

    BMW spring pad lower Part #:BMW-31331096664

    BMW spring pad upper Part #:BMW-31331091233

    59464616_2471851636376227_6208721349192450048_n

    I did this over two weeks so have been driving for a week with one new shock and one old and to be honest the new shock side felt better.....

    58461914_2288746341397243_7463183263725518848_n

    Maxed out the spring compressors....man these things really turn your anxiety up.

     

    • Like 3

  4. 1 hour ago, hunter said:

    Hi @adro

    Did you end up ordering any shocks / kits from overseas?

    I'm going to be in need of a front shock set up (right hand) and possibly spring, looking at fcp, they can do  the front end kit to suit M Sport suspension for close to the price of one side, based on what i was quoted today

     

    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-shock-absorber-kit-rear-170857kt 

    Keen to know  what / if you went for anything

    Cheers

    Hi @hunter,

    random timing, I just installed the left shock this afternoon. I ordered fronts though, I went with Sachs as this is my family mobile so I didn't want to go any firmer than factory. If you decode your vin you will probably find that your car has mtech II suspension which is S705A not S704A....as far as I can tell there is different part numbers for the shocks, but mine being the V8 it gets M5 struts. Also, the USA didn't get the facelift I don't think till 2003, so your 2001 will show up as fitting the S704A instead of S705A. I'm not sure how much it really matters, someone more qualified could chime in here? My shocks have done 218,000 km so I'm loving the smoothness of the replacements.

     


  5. 7 minutes ago, Eagle said:

    Haha nuts and bolts are usually the first thing you check, guess everyone was trusting in your engine mount replacement skills :D . I had a weird front end clunk when loading\turning and it was loose subframe bolts. Least no one will have to touch the front end for awhile.

    Good stuff that HPR5 though, i got a 20L for $157 @ Repco on sale.

    haha yeah, school of hard knocks and all that. ?

    • Haha 1

  6. 217,500km

    CLUNK ELIMINATED

    turned out the engine mounts weren't torqued correctly....opps, my bad. The mounts were new.....guessing maybe they weren't fully loaded when i torqued them.....either way they are torqued now...they were out by about half a turn. The car is driving amazing..I am loving it. Gotta laugh at how much stuff I've replaced trying to solve the noise, not to mention the two shops i took it to who also didn't pick it up. Jon was on the right track though thinking it was an installation error as opposed to a failed part...expensive lesson in DIY'ing, don't think the car is worse off for it though.

    We celebrated with an oil and filter change ?

    47667264252_2c28eb89c2_b.jpg

     

    • Like 7

  7. 41 minutes ago, BreakMyWindow said:

    You’re persistent!

    The car is so close to being in tip top shape, it's driving so smooth...

    Things still to do.

    • Get rid of this clunk noise
    • Re-spray Bonnet
    • Door seals - they are well worn, not letting moisture in but look tatty
    • Exterior window front and back window seals
    • Celis rear tails. The pair I got off trade me are corroded and don't work...surprise surprise ? )
    • New floor mats - would freshen up the interior
    • Facelift tri spoke multi function steering wheel

     

    • Like 3

  8. 217XXX km

    the saga continues...

    • Second hand steering box from @BM WORLD installed by Jon at Auto38. 
    • R/H strut orientated correctly 
    • wheel alignment 

    Stilling pinging/clunking when front suspension is loaded up, coming from the RH side either when on the brakes or turning from left to right. 

     

    47516593662_49e782f6b0_b.jpg47516593672_ee0ef0a7bf_b.jpg

    Saw it's younger, beefier sibling too @Olaf

    • Like 4

  9. for sale UUC v3.0 "Big Boy" Clutch Stop

    part number: 1895840

    "By simply replacing your stock clutch stop with this "Big Boy" clutch stop, you can adjust the amount of free play in the pedal travel.

    By adjusting this clutch pedal stop up off of the floor you no longer push the pedal further than you need to, allowing for quicker shifts.

    61mm diameter. Some vehicles may require slight modification. Does not work on E46 or most BMWs after 2000."

    I didn't want to drill a hole in my E30 so this has never been installed.

    $30 happy to ship at buyers expense.

    More info here:

    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-uuc-parts/v30-big-boy-clutch-stop/cs/

    located Wellington

    46780413704_e6125aef96_b.jpg32561969067_688c28e25c_b.jpg

     


  10. 216849 km

    Has been in with Jon at Auto38. New TRW center drag link (ebay UK) $600 landed incl customs. New Febi idler arm bushing $74.75 

    Car feels significantly better....shimmy at 80km/h is CURED as is the shimmy under braking. Car feels so much more responsive and the steering feels tight, best it's ever felt under my ownership.

    I still have a click going on but I can live with that with the shimmy gone.

    Finally a mechanic who is enthusiastic about their workmanship and knows the car inside out. Jon diagnosed 5mm play in the idler arm and also found the clicking to be coming from the boots on the draglink. A way more precise diagnoses than the previous crowd I took it too.

    DSC_4322

    46560193775_0ac7107a81_b.jpg

     

    • Like 6

  11. Hi, 

    I'm selling the original open diff from my E30 along with new drive shaft seal, bushing, gasket and output seals. It was leaking from the output seal so I was intending to refurb but ended picking up Johns refurbed LSD out of his S54 powered E30 wagon and this is just sitting on the shelf. 

    It's done 110,000 km, Still filled with oil. 

    Would prefer to sell as a package but might split it up if need be. The bushing thats in it now looks to be OK. 

    All OEM BMW 

    Looking for $500 for the lot. 

    Located in Wellington

    SWE_6733SWE_6734SWE_6735SWE_6736SWE_6740SWE_6741SWE_6745SWE_6744

     

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