Kiwi_BMW

Actually that truth never came out either, the person that made all the claims about the gunman at the range in Dunedin fabricated everything......nothing he claimed actually happened except the gunman was a member of the club and had used the range. That person actually ended up on the wrong side of the law and ended up having his firearms license revoked from what I understand. If you look at history, Aramoana happened because the Police failed in their duty. The police diverted funding away from policing firearms policing and didn't remove David Greys firearms from him after he had threatened to kill a shop keeper. And Christchurch happened because the police had again diverted funding away from firearms policing and didn't follow due process before issuing the gunman his license. Yet the Police get off scott free in both cases and the firearms owners end up being persecuted with unnecessary law changes, and after the Christchurch massacre firearms owners were vilified by the politicians, the police, the media and the none firearms owning public due to the narrative from the media.

Actually that system was abandoned for lifetime licenses because they system had that many errors that it actually didn't work. The records kept were found to be something like 40% inaccurate before it was abandoned. Even with MSSA firearms being registered (prior to being made illegal and the buyback) the records were inaccurate, I know numerous people who had legally sold or purchased MSSA firearms that when the police came around to inspect them the police records were incorrect, luckily the owners had the paperwork to show that the police records were incorrect. This didn't only happen once I know of three people who had the same problem year after year, even after having corrected the police records the first year. Knowing that and that there were only about 20,000 registered firearms up until the Christchurch massacre, I don't know how they think they can get a database with not only 150,000+ firearms but also another 200,000+ firearms parts error free. Or how they think they can achieve that for under $100,000,000 when Canada couldn't achieve it for under 1 billion.

One of the things I check on a car is if it's NZ New or an import.........it's quite surprising how many NZ New vehicles are actually imports Like this one https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/530i/listing/2690151713?bof=rb7bvqr4

I used to use this website to check vins on BMW's https://www.mdecoder.com/ but now when I use it it says You have reached a daily limit for using decoder service. Paid access will be implemented in few days. I hadn't used the vin checker for over a month so I'm unsure how I would reach a daily limit, unless the limit is 0 So I registered as a private individual on the website it links to and they want 5 euro for a vin check. Does anyone else use that checker and have the same issue or has anyone else got a link to a BMW vin checker that provides info on the options etc?

If the transmission has enough fluid to engage reverse then it has enough fluid to engage forward gears None of the clutch packs engaged for 4th are used in 1st or 2nd. Clutch pack K1 is used in 3rd and 4th. Band B2 is used in 1,st , 2nd & 3rd Since you have reverse the one way clutch which is used in 1st and rev is OK, so no drive in 1st indicates a problem with B2 since B2 and the one way clutch are used for 1st. You aren't going to get any gears apart from 1st and reverse, unless the valvebody is calibrated to apply 2nd for take off on normal acceleration (some were calibrated this way and only applied 1st on take off when using more throttle) Since you say the oil doesn't smell burnt it doesn't indicate the plates and bands are burnt and worn away, if the trans had been slipping and worn the lining off the plates and bands causing a loss of drive through excessive clearance of the bands and clutches the oil would have a burnt smell. If you install another transmission ensure the modulator is the same colour as the one in the transmission you are removing and put a pressure guage on the transmission and adjust the pressure to the spec of your car. From memory the 722.400 had a green modulator and a pressure setting of 46psi this is measured at 50kph with the vacuum line off. (it would pay to check that to see if my memory is correct, it's been a while since I set one up) Modulator is shift feel (so pressure control) The TV cable is shift timing.

As you say there are many 722.4 transmissions, they are a hydraulically controlled transmission so the many variants although basically the same are quite different and the control ie valvebody, governor, vacuum modulator etc are calibrated to cope with different shift patterns and timing depending on model of vehicle, weight of vehicle, diesel or petrol and kw rating. Coop is correct a no forward drive can be caused by the B2 (rear band) servo pin falling out this is usually caused by wear and the plastic retainer clip breaking allowing the pin to fall out. To give you an idea of hydraulic vs electronic control, GM had 73 different build versions of the 4L60 transmission and when they changed to electronic control of the same transmission I think the number of different builds was reduced to 6 or 7.

If the fluid doesn't smell burnt then it may have other issues causing no forward drive. What vehicle is it and what transmission?

I'm looking for a set of E60 M5 rear axles and also a driveshaft if anyone has these that are surplus to their requirements I'd appreciate a reply.

Yes I did think of the dynavin unit but the E60 isn't exactly touchscreen friendly The E39 is better for touchscreen than the E60

Who would be the people to deal with, I have a E60 CIC that I need programmed (if I can get it all back) and a combox for the E60 as well. The E60 is a 2004.

I see a lot of praise for Eurosurgeon on here, but I have to say I am having a nightmare dealing with Joe. I sent a CIC unit up to be coded in early May, I didn't hear anything from them so I phoned them a few times and left messages, no reply. In early June I got hold of Joe by phone and he said to email him so I did. No reply. I few days latter I got hold of him and I got told yes it's done, it just hadn't ben sent back, after waiting another 10 days it still didn't arrive, so several more phone calls and messages, still no reply, I finally get hold of Joe, the excuse was "I thought you would have had it by now' my reply was "No, what is the tracking number"? They finally sent it back the following day and when I opened the parcel the face plate with the buttons was missing, I made several more phone calls again left messages with no reply, finally I got hold of Joe and asked about the faceplate, he said he would look into it. A week went by no reply so a few more phone calls and I again get hold of Joe, this time I get told it was found on the bench and he would send it to me. Well that was two weeks ago and I'm still waiting on it, a few more phone calls with no answer and no returned message, I finally get hold of him and he hangs up on me then immediately txts me (from the same number) to say his phone is rebooting as it's playing up and he will return my call, well no surprise no returned call From this experience it doesn't seem like this business is very good at customer service, have any others experienced service like this from Eurosurgeon?

There are a lot of seals in a transmission but I assume you are talking about the Mechatronic case connector and the bridge seal between the case and the mechatronic and possibly the mechatronic to case tube seals. The Mechatronic case connector seal can be replaced by draining the fluid and removing the pan. The bridge seal and mechatronic to case tube seals requires the transmission to be drained the case connector removed and the valvebody removed. There should be no need to reset the adaptions unless some parts like solenoids or other parts are replaced. The adaptions happen through driving the vehicle and the adaptions "alter" the shift timing , pressures and duration according to wear inside the transmission so that the shifts happen according to a set of criteria programmed into the TCU. If the adaptions are reset the transmission has to relearn how to shift and adapt to the wear inside the transmission and engine, it also has to adapt to your particular driving style. If there is some shift issue, and a filter change and fluid flush doesn't fix the problem then there is usually another problem present. Resetting the adaptions will set the shift programming back to a standard set of parameters that will change/adapt according to the transmission and engine wear and your driving style over a period of time. When was the transmission serviced?? At 137k on the clock it should have been serviced several times, if it hasn't and the last service was only a drain and refill then the new fluid would have been contaminated by the dirty fluid that was left in the transmission. Depending on what fluid was used it should either be a nice straw colour (OEM Fluid) or a red colour with no darkening of the fluid or dirty streaks in it. If it isn't then the transmission needs a flush.

Well I'm biased but certain shapes look best dressed in certain colours E39, Orient Blue Metallic and Stirling grey metallic and the E60 looks great in Olivin Green metallic

First thanks aja540i, the measurements provided enabled me to do some cutting and fitting. With the measurement provided I managed to take this And turn it into this, Yep retrofitting heads up display into a E60 So with the lockdown it has been a perfect opportunity to carry out some planned project, first I had to strip out the interior and remove the dash top The '04 E60 with adaptive headlights has a control module in behind the glovebox for the adaptive function, well I removed that module and fitted a LM2 which incorporates the adaptive functions into the Light module. The advantages of this is that the LM2 supports Angle Eye daytime running lights, programable welcome lights, cornering fog lights and also LED taillights. To fit this I needed to remove the dash support tube to gain access to the wiring harness and pull several wires back through the harness that went from the drivers side all the way over to the passengers side for the AHL module, I also had to extend two wires from the passengers side to the light module. Here goes the support tube. While I had the interior stripped out I also ran all the speaker wires for the Logic 7 system and the wires for the heads up display, I also ran a most cable from the front to the back and across to the HUD. Some of the things left to do are crimp the terminals onto all the wires, transfer the sub, power and earth wires from the old amp plug to the Logic 7 plug and run some Fakra cables for the CIC upgrade.

Sorry can't help with the Logic 7 amp, but I am just doing a retrofit on a E60 at the moment, I managed to get a E60 Logic 7 harness out of the UK and a amp out of the USA, then picked up a new amp mounting bracket out of Latvia. Good luck with your quest.

Thanks, If you look at the trim in my pics you will see there are two clips securing the trim, one is on the right hand corner closest to the driver the other is approx. 100mm down from the corner on the left hand side. Both of the clips go through steel supports which are screwed to the dash. The bottom edge of the trim just hooks under the bottom of the opening so once the clips are released the trim just pulls up and toward the steering wheel to remove it. Yes the clips are quite firm in the openings of the steel supports, about the same as some of the clips holding some of the trim into the dash.

You're in the wrong part of the country it's a fine sunny day here.....lol Thanks, I still have plenty to do while the dash and seats are out, wiring and most for the HUD, etc

Thanks Andrew. What I could do with are some measurements to the edge of the opening for the HUD and a cardboard template if possible. The trim is just clipped into place, so if you lift it up from the edge closest to the driver it will just unclip and lift out. I've attached a couple of pics of the dash top and the HUD surround, measurements from the heater vents and the size of the opening would help. As you can see my dash is already out, makes it easy to take photos of.

Well with 4 weeks to fill in I was wondering if any members on here have a E60 with Heads Up Display? I'm looking to do some projects and could do with a template for cutting out the opening for the HUD trim.

A few years ago Penrite recommended their synthetic fluid (BMV wasn't as good as their synthetic fluid at the time) for the ZF6HP in the Falcons, it was only recommended on their website for approx. 3 weeks. I heard of a number of cases where the trans ended up with harsh and shudder shifts after using that fluid. A couple of fluids available in NZ that are suitable for the ZF 6HP and latter trans are Fuchs Titan 6006 https://www.fuchs.com/de/en/special/product/product/128545-titan-atf-6006/ Q8 Auto MV https://www.q8oils.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Q8-Auto-MV_en.pdf A good oil is still cheaper than rebuilding a 6HP.

No problem. Even if you only need the front springs you will also need a set of m-tech swaybars, or some others...……..Cheers

Adro do you want the m-sport sill trims?? $120 for all 4 if you are interested

Yes I checked and it does have M-tech 2 Suspension, $300 for all the shocks springs and swaybars

Sorry, unless someone fitted them it just has std exterior mirrors

All 4 sill plates, all rubber is still intact, no cracks just normal wear & tear.