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Yeh, I reckon just the gear assembly (shown) is at least as heavy as the whole G220 box. Do you need a bellhousing for something? looks the the main housing section might make a nice herb planter...

Yeh think I've got one of those kicking around, good plan. Went to bolt the driveshaft up the other day, found the kit parts were mismatched which is a bit annoying, the guibo is set for 12mm bolts, with the output flange for 10mm. Will get some grade 12.7 M10 bolts and machine up some spacers for the guibo. So I got bored and took the Jatco to bits, f**king rough looking weld on the torque converter. Heaps of cool bits inside though, might see about turning it into a coffee table or something.

Or as soon as it happens run around and open the tank cap and listen for a whoosh (best done on near empty tank). Semi common problem on bikes with carbs; seen pics of an EFI one that sucked in it's fuel tank though...

Yeh, trouble is they tend to differ on the 'how'. Most of them it just sounds like two wire joins for starter lockout and reverse lights, will tidy up unconnected wires but leave em connected for now I guess.

Got most of the way through the conversion now, just the driveline and electrics to go. Any tips for the electrical part of the conversion? TCM delete, coding, etc... f**k that auto is a big bitch of a gearbox, made slightly trickier by leaving the torque converter on the engine when removing the box, then almost breaking my arm lowering it onto trolley for removal.

Turns out they're not as strong as they need to be, this was done lifting from a fairly bad angle so it took more weight than normal, and with a block to space it out a bit so the force was further out than normal; but that sorta sh*t happens I guess. So I'll keep using these ones under a watchful eye, but won't be making any more. Anyway, car is up, just waiting for the heat to drop a bit then I'll go swear at the old gearbox until it falls off...

Got around to making one this morning, took quite a while and then I stuffed the taper up, ran out of material, and had to weld a little bit on to get the length. So on the plus side the nipple bit is work hardened; but on the minus side, you're pretty unlikely to save anything buying it ($50) from me (obviously no obligation to do so as it'll happily go in mine).

Quick question re the G220 box, the input shaft only has a single bearing in the box right, with the pilot bearing on the crank to secure shaft alignment? Cos my input shaft has a bit of play typical for such a setup, but f**ked if there is another bearing hiding back there...

After swearing and faffing about just getting the RSM supports in, that absolutely sounds like the way to go!

That'd be drive in drive out then?

Cabin filter and RSM strengthening plates for me today. And a wash with light polish, f**king bird sh*t on it before it was even dry What does a full respray cost these days?

No worries, have you got a link to some replacement pins to figure out what we need to get/do? I've got a pic of the red one I bought to replace it (I bought it in rough grey finish then one came up color matched to my car). http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/54167-the-inevitable-e36-coupe-project/page-3 The pic is not the most flatering angle, but it shows the 'high arch' (not lift, it didn't look right when I posted it) indentation on the front middle third; I think it looks pretty grouse tbh.

Just stalked into here from the clutch thread. Looks good man! I'm in palmy too, have a code reader (ADS so suits 95 models inc JDM) so if you need to make use of that... and a 'high lift' spoiler if you want to classy up the rear end a bit. I looked into angel eyes, but thought they were a bit tacky, I've gone with 'french fogs' yellow tints for high beam and fog lights, which look fantastic imo, and more period accurate. Either way, getting into the light unit is pretty easy. PS, I've got a lathe so can probably just turn you up a clutch pivot pin if you can track down some material.

Preaching to the choir there, I ride a lot and often do around 120; I almost think it's safer going that little bit quicker as it keeps the attention up, and all the passing means you don't get stuck in innatentive lemming mode. So while the bigger part of me thinks its a crock of sh*t, the silver lining is I'm possibly less likely to cop a ticket during such events.

Got one sitting in the shed waiting to go in atm. Another member here is having issues with the clutch actuation distance, but his was a somewhat oddball gearbox combo I think. What box have you got going in? http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/53887-e36-325i-coupe-project/page-4

And when you think about it, if they're spending all weekend pulling Hickory and Dickory for doing +4, there's less eyes watching out for Dock doing +20 through some nice twisties.

Was that debadged with a pinecone? Looks like the base paint was pretty good though, can turn into a big job when you need to polish a small area but it turns out the rest of the car has noticeably sh*t paint afterwards...

Ended up getting a spoiler locally that was right color, came with boot lid so I just fixed up some rust around the spoiler bolts, and swapped out the whole lid. Debadged it while I had all the polishing sh*t out. Got me thinking that I'd like to change the roundels from blue/white, to copper/silver; anyone done custom roundels locally? Making more lifting bars still on the list. Clutch arrived for the manual conversion, but going to get some gearbox seals etc as well.

Went for brush over aerosol because it was such a small area which wouldn't be covered by the spoiler; was hoping the brushes would be a thinner paint or something that didn't require much blending, but it was about the same as it would have been for aerosol anyway... and I covered a few chips at the same time anyway.

The other way is to use a timer interrupt to process comms/critical events, and just loop all the inefficient sh*t in the main loop. Have used that to both control a screen, and steppers at around 25kHz pulse frequency.

Guess I better give them a try too then Ended up getting one of each, wished the guy who previously installed his spoiler into the boot lid had used a primer, massive rust damage around the holes, I ground it back but will have to bog it. At least it is tucked away under the spoiler so won't have to get too carried away blending it in.

Anyone used these guys? http://www.touchuppaintnz.co.nz/ They seem well priced, and having three different brushes seems like a good idea...

I've looked at 4D stuff before but didn't like how they did the screen design and interfacing with the uP. Developed my own software to generate code for an arduino running a TS LCD, can pick up the whole set for around $50. It's still in development, but I've used it for a few things. http://www.tawatech.com/G2/G2.html It might solve the problem of unique setups as you can just create different 'windows' as required and reuse the widgets across the lot. I reckon an orange/black pallet could look pretty mint with the E36's... PS. I'm not stalking you, I swear!

No problem, just read through the whole thread, complements for such a thorough writeup; I'll likely be refering back to this for a few mods on mine... Few pics of the whole car couldn't go amiss though

Figure out what the cam code actually means, connection fault, read fault, data error, installation error? Also check your wiring from the crank/cam sensors, could be a dicky connection near something warm...