tawa

Mine get a bit of clutch shudder with the g220 and NZAD lightweight flywheel also; I think it's as much related to the lash in the gearbox as anything else. How do you find the rev hang between shifts?

Ordered them, thank's for the tip Olaf. Coded the Kombi and EWS today to get rid of the transmission warning light. Also rumors it will change some of the DME values so it runs more like a manual (not rev hanging so much between gears) but I'm not too confident that will be the case. Might have to mess with the ICV, bit ridiculous with a lightweight flywheel for the revs to hang a second or so when changing. The more I think about it, the more I see other symptoms of an ICV that could be clogged up or leaking or something, might pull it out for a clean tomorrow...

I've got an winxp box set up just for this, native serial and TinyADS interface. Will be trying to code mine so it knows its a manual transmission today, is there any check you want me to run?

Nailed it (the guess, not gigi, unfortunately). Just kept track of the number of cars back she was. Looks like a decent car though...

Still need the screws to go hold the interior wheel guards captive though, so I've left them all in there.

Yeh that's a good point, I did have backup wood blocks under there when I was as well though.

They will if they are long enough, mind you they'n need to be 2peice so I could still get under it from the sides. Maybe axle stands are the go though, and I will need to get under there to do the exhaust and diffuser soon...

It fitted ok, some of the measurements were off, so some holes needed slotting this time. Overall I'm happy with the fit and look of it, will see about getting some thick brush on plastidip for the edges... Anyway, here's the pics.

Found another reason to work under the bimmer... really need to get some ramps or axle stands.

I've got a big pile of bolts ready to go to the scrappies from when I did my conversion. If you want to flick me a list of sizes I can check them off and see if I've got a complete set of what you need...

Got the ACM parts back today, looks better than expected... Fitted it together then just propped it up under there to see how it looks. Will fit properly over the weekend.

I got the same TinyADS for my 96, works with an old PC I had, bought a PCMCIA laptop expansion slot serial thingo, but my laptop got nicked before I could test that out. So that's an option too, if a lappy with a serial port proves too difficult to find...

Plastic welded all the bits up this arvo. Then measured up the bumper and underbody. Looking at a two level design, the bumper 'skid plate' extending forwards 60mm at sides and 30 in center for the splitter, then a motor plate put 40mm lower to get under the sway bar, which runs the full length of the motor, finishing at the drive tunnel cross brace. Motor plate will be four bolts (two on the sway bar mounts, two on the cross brace), then slid down and forward to remove. Designed it up for profile cut ACM, didn't really want to use this due to its edges, but might be able to put a rubberised paint on them or something. Anyway, let me know if there is any clearance bits or other issues I've overlooked!

f**king hit a hare coming back from HB over easter. Hadn't updated my pest threat assessment since owning a van; won't make that mistake again. Took it on the left between fog light and number plate I think, cracked the bumper out from the center and off to the left just along the bottom, which then pushed back and smashed a side off the panel the goes under the rad and trans cooler (what does that do anyway?). The air duct for the brakes also pushed back, damaged the plastic bit it sockets into behind that, and ripped the top mount of same bit (goes right around under the guard). Fog light also had it's little clip bit broken. f**king rabbits are pests alright... Anyway, plastic welded up the guard, will plastic weld up the bumper, do something about the fog light; and add a splitter and partial engine undertray just in case old peter cottontail has any suicidal friends. Think I'll do the pair and put a diffuser on as well, always try to turn every fix-up job into an improvement...

Damn, was just searching here to see if there was one for sale. Looks like I have to get in the queue. Let me know if you find a wrecker or whatever with a few of them...

Top right of the windscreen works for me...

Depends entirely if that was done to put out the fire I would think...

Seen a ///M 318Ti today, looked more legit than this stuff...

Just add a digit and write the peak HP. Oh hang on, that's not going to work, cos the torque curve is important. Best convert a dyno run to a csv file and write that out on there. Or, be logical and write the engine size + a T if it is turbo. Having the badge indicate a tuned ECU is way too pretentious. I can sort of see their ///M rational to put it after the X5, because if done 'properly' it would end up being an ///MX5 *shudders*

Wonder if their maketeers have keyboards missing the letter t or something...

The manual is in, just breaking in the clutch still, but first gear is a laugh, topping out at about 50kmhr. Need to do a little more work with the shifter as the boot and sound deadener from the compact doesn't fit the console. And need to tell the DME to adjust a few values for the manual. Yeh let me know what measurements you need.

What? Child seat goes in the boot? Guess it's one way to cut down on cabin noise, those crazy germans... Which will be the only four boits left in the car after everything rattles off... Just dip it in a sikaflex/loctite shandy, that'll keep everything together!

It wouldn't be the column per-say, just the mechanicals in/around the ignition barrel. Do factory manuals have a little button or something to remove the key?

I've just been for a test drive in my converted one and are now up to tidying up a few bits like this. So thanks for the reminder. Seems to be M10 superfine thread which is pretty uncommon. In any case, M10x1.0 threaded for 9mm, then a 3.9mm pin extending 7mm. Piss easy to turn out of an M10x1.0x20 cap screw if I had one... Luckily for me I kept the cable just just clipped the end off and using that. Edit: Actually not quite that easy, the cable is pushed out when the key is turned so the pin needs to move, and be spring loaded. Best to find a wrecker with one.

Do those boxes not come with the right BH? Either way, I can take measurements from this one; and probably send it up to you (just price of postage) once I confirm how I'm going to use the rest of the box.