tawa

Cos I'm not a castrol fanboy, and figured some user reviews might help to select the better brand to begin with. But since they appear to be a well regarded brand obviosuly, and have a good selector thingo for bimmers, next time it'll be my first stop. And since I now know repco stocks that stuff (or presumably can get it in at least), I shall head there as a first stop. So chur for that. Will bear that one in mind, pops up in more online searches too, so I'll be right for supply, cheers.

Quick (depending on the worm/can pressure) question, what is good oil for use in E36 Limited Slip Diff, medium case. And just as importantly where to get it from? US forums recomend Castrol SAF-XJ 75w140 etc, which doesn't appear to be available by any company who deigns to use this new fangled interwebby thing...

Those are the ones, can't imagine there are too many in bronze floating around. What's with the ///M sticker on them? were they M series original? or just marketting run amok...

Just photo angle, I'll get some better one for my project thread at some point. The keen eyed observer might notice the #45s are running somewhat negative camber though... Yeh I'm pretty stoked with how they look, might look into rolling guards so I can put the right size tyres on the rear though.

Increased rim style by 331%

Looks priced to stay though. Cost of car plus mods never adds up to sell price...

Yeh a little bit, just use it as a reminder not to ride the clutch

I've got the G220 with NZAD clutch (behind M52b28), would not recomend for daily driver (though I do use mine for this), kevlar clutch is grabby and very stiff. Why the desire for a new flywheel?

Iirc there are a few different options depending on the stacker, and what cable it has. Ibus I think the better one is called?

What's with all the photos of his carputer screen too... So much tacky... ...is it irredeemably wrong that I still want them?

I was assuming it was the same situation as INPA and easydis etc, took a number of goes to find a workable version of that...

Sounds like a plan, PM me your email address you use for dropbox and I'll add you in, you should be able to upload the flash tool to there as well.

Here's a file listing of the version I've got if it helps, on dropbox somewhere and can probably find the link if you want it...

Yeh sounds like virtual box might not be getting the CD image passed to it correctly or something; the bios is showing a CD drive right?

I did this a while back, give us more detail on exactly what your problem is and it might jog my memory.

Will either pull it out and the physical serial number, or read some sh*t off INPA/DIS next time I'm near either of those things then. Cheers for your help.

Mid May for me, so guessing non-programmable.

yeh that's the one

Hmmm, sounds like I need to double check what's in it atm, and if it's remapable. Is there an easy way to tell? DME part number cross reference? INPA check?

Think I've got one in the shed somewhere. Call it 20bucks inc shipping.

Will start at $500... ... and needs pic.

Yeh 7hp sounds way too high for HPS. Maybe if you had some 255s on the front, stationary with a fat bird posing on the bonnet and gave it full lock...

Technically that's just hydraulic power steering with an electric pump. Not heard of anyone retrofitting EPS to bimmers, I'd guess it likes to hook into speed and other sensors, in addition to the spatial differences of course. Be good to loose a bit of weight and the pump drag though...

Harris's M2 piece was pretty good this week. If you've given up on the show, I'd still recommend finding that excerpt on youtube or whatever...

Hey folks, I've done a wee bit of research, but finding lots of information overload on this subject. Basically what I want is to do get the car running like a factory manual (it's an auto conversion with TCM delete), and remove the EWS so I can do keyless start; plus a bit more of a sporty tune (chipped etc) for now; but also have the upgradeability if I get the engine bored out a bit or FI or whatever... Is there a standout option here? is it even doable as a drop in DME replacement job or is there a shitload of wiring etc to do (car is pre OBDII).