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Sorry but you have a basic misunderstanding of what angular velocity is, radius has no effect on it, none, nada. That why it is measured in angle unit per time, not a distance unit. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angular_velocity Constant rotational frequency does indeed translate in to constant angular velocity. This is basic stuff, I'm quite surprised you've got so far through the theory to a result without understanding the basics. That's why when you put in 5000rpm to one of the many, many online calcs, you get an angular velocity output (523rad/s) with no mention of radius anywhere. https://www.calculator.org/properties/angular_velocity.html The example demonstrates how you are getting confused. If you use linear velocity instead of angular, the linear equations work, however, earlier on you're mixing the two and using both rotational inertia, and linear velocity, this doesn't work. Which is what leads you to a conclusion where energy is not conserved across the examples (this should have been a red flag to you early on).

It's not so much 'use radians if you wish' as it is use radians because they are the correct term and unit for the equation. And it's your understanding of kinetic energy that is flawed, so it's that part of the discussion I'm having. This comment: Violates the law of energy conservation, if it spins up quick, it takes less energy to spin up, so has less kinetic energy. And this table: Shows a misapplication of the kinetic energy formula, for a constant angular velocity (as you specify), the kenetic energy will be linearly proportional to (scales with) the rotational inertia.

Prony brake would be a far better option imo, easy to make and perfect for pretty accurate relative measurements.

The velocity is in radians per second, it not linked to the 'lever arm' at all, I think your table and interpretations needs some revision. But of course I'm open to a counter-argument if you have a formula which states otherwise... https://courses.lumenlearning.com/boundless-physics/chapter/rotational-kinetic-energy/ As mentioned in earlier posts, I like the pedal travel/engagement where it is, just not the force required.

I've got some questions regarding some of the calculations, but the core idea is certainly good, rotational inertia can be estimated across different flywheels easily enough to get a relative result, which ones are 'heavier' than others and take longer to spin up/down.

Velocity for rotational inertia is given in radians per second, it's only the rotational inertia term which changes the result for kinetic energy so it's a simple scaler with rotational inertia isn't it? What equations are you using? In other news, the VH44 turned up today, might see about positioning it and getting the right fittings/lines this weekend...

Few questions, how do the UUC combos have higher kenitic energy if they spin up quicker? surely energy is only conserved... Why does the Fid&M5 have so much more kinetic energy than UUC&M3 but have near identical rotational inertia?

M50B28, for now. Though tbh I won't be upgrading the engine without getting a stronger box etc anyway.

Cool, as per the title I'm more after people's direct experience than vague doubts about the concept, they've been used in clutches on other cars, similar tech comes stock on a fair number of cars. The unit's operation looks pretty analogue, seems far more like adding a bit more 'free leverage' than being a black hole that eats all your clutch feels.

Or put a booster in, hence the thread. Not sure why that seems to be a difficult concept?

Good point, from memory there isn't much rubber line, but with a bit more pressure in the system it could mask a too stiff pedal/cylinder ratio...

It's remote mount, fair few options I think. vacuum operated and just plumbed in to the existing clutch line. The real 'issue' is the increased pressure pressure plate.

The clutch in my e36 has been quite heavy ever since I did a manual conversion (NZAD lightweight flywheel in a g220 box). Recently heard about the VH44 units as an option to sort it out. The stroke length/engagement seems really good so I don't think it's just a matter of changing pedal ratio or master/slave cylinder diameter. I'm thinking I'll get a VH44 to try, from what I can tell, the assist ration can be changed by changing out a spring, and from there it's just a matter of getting the plumbing all tidy and having good vac available and all's well... Anyone have success or failure running one of these? tips/tricks/feedback?

+1 for the epoxy floor coating, I got mine from Regis, coverage was spot on (as opposed to the acid etch from bunning, which was about 25% of it's recomended).

I had heard that too, gave mine a clean, and also run a wideband sensor, doesn't show any spikes in AFR as I'd expect if the rev hang was due to an air leak.

I'm keen to hear how you get on with that clutch switch, mine does it too and I've just been living with it (got a recoded ECU for it). Can't recall doing anything with a clutch switch...

Orange impact sensors are not ringing any bells, but if it has the round 'pacman' ADS connector I have the tool and INPA to have a crack at it if you're up in TGA...

Yeh 194s, I run 225s all round, little bit of stretch as the rears are a wider rim. There's not a huge amount of clearance on the rears so not keen to run anything wider without some mods. Maybe they come in different offsets or something if @qube has 255s running without clearance issues.

Minor upgrade to the center console, got sick of cables dingle-dangling all over the show. I have the Grom USB and BT car kit, with a mag-connect USB cable. Replaced the little coin tray with one that can hold the flash drive and phone as well as the coins. Just flick the cable over to the phone when it needs a charge. Works good apart from the 3d printed bits warping in the sun, and being a bit sh*t on the eyeballs; but you have to piss with the cock you got, right!

Finally got round to spraying my fog lights (the vinyl didn't weather so well). Top tip, nobody in NZ seems to sell yellow glass/headlight tint, but metalcast is transparent top coat in various colors (has a metal flecked basecoat so it looks all fancy, topcoat coverage is garbage but seems fine for glass tinting!)

Was mostly keen on the boot tbh, have a lead on one, makes sense for you to keep it with the gearbox though...

Would you consider selling the shifter boot and center arm rest separate to the rest of the interior?

And you convinced me to buy two... How about we compromise and just call us 'morons with taste'...

No I have the USB3, with the bluetooth dongle, low dash Mid, I expect it's the stereo version as it connects directly to it.

Nice! Mine doesn't play so nice with the stereo to send track names through, I'm still looking for the CD43 upgrade as I think that may do it...