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ARM seems fairly overkill for this sort of thing? I'd expect a keypad to get very tedious very quickly, I'd prefer a normal key over a keypad...

I haven't found the arduino gear too bad for simple stuff, probably be more trusting of that than my coding and wiring and put a bypass in just in case! Yeh I can see how the prox stuff would be preferable, I have it in my X5 but I wouldn't recommend that particular system it as it is more complicated and expensive than most. Haven't had any experience with modules etc. For the Prox stuff, my X5 does it all with just one button and it seems to work really well. Door handles have a switch on open (pull handle to unlock it, then again to open) and a cap button to push to lock them. One push to start car if you have a foot on the brake If foot not on brake, one push to turn on ACC, second to turn on IGN Turn off requires two presses, one to turn the engine off and another to turn off car - this is probably the one I'd change to just turn everything off I think for my projects I'd like the ACC and IGN outputs, along with a general purpose one to run a small motor to open a door, for inputs it'd be the switch/button and brake/clutch pedals, and maybe one more for a mode switch.

I have a bunch of bits sitting on my electronics work bench, plan is to do pretty much the same on my bikes and e36 as well. They're PN532 breakout boards and Arduiny Nano's, works with common passive tags, just reads the Tag ID, that can be used for the security part. The Nano can be programmed for whatever digital outputs are required. My plan was to have it in the drivers door as well, and run different tags to open and lock it, similarly for the ignition one tag to start and one to turn it off (figured I'd tap into the brake and clutch sensors, ie, if clutch is in it runs the starter, if brake or clutch it turns on the ignition, if none it just turns ACC on). Anyway, keen to collab on this if you want to do the electronics... I can send you some hardware and tags with an example program if it is what you're after?

It's done, working mint with the extra space, though maps are ongoing since I didn't have working maps to start with, more details in the thread below.

Regarding infrastructure, it could be of benefit for Distributed Generation, having potential storage at point of consumption and possibly generation there too, or at least having controllable loads to smooth the consumption curve and charge direct from DG during surplus production. Just managed to get mine within 5km (by walking trail), now the buggers are planning to shift it an extra 20km away through major traffic... Now what? Build new again, look for other employment? Hopefully I'll get some working from home options...

Purchased a E70 xDrive35 last year, $200 to fill will comfortably get me 600km... So I've been considering this very issue frequently, and using my motorcycle where possible, which gets about twice the km/L. I think the reducing the kms travelled is the biggest difference you can make. Not an option for everyone obviously, but with working form home options becoming more of a thing after covid that certainly helps, and just planning trips wisely...

It's a setting you need to code in, I used NCS expert with a DCan cable to change the VO (vehicle order) specs from Japan to NZ. This is from experience with my E70, which I think is the same as E60/61 and E90/91. It's simple once you know what to do, but it's a steep learning curve as well.

I'd expect so long as it uses the same version CIC it would work. I've just installed it, yet to go on a trip long enough (to import the music) to see if there is more space; it still shows as 12.5gig free but I've heard that doesn't update to reflect the new sizing, but does make use of it. It's a pretty easy process, and the good thing is if you are upgrading and it doesn't work you can always put the old drive back in (which I did when I got the wrong drive tray). Parts are $80 bucks for the drive sled, $35 for a m.2 128gig drive, and $10 for the adapter. Update: Imported the music, all works sweet, still shows 12.5gig (100%) free so it must just check how much free space is on the drive.

I purchased a reasonably nicely spec'd X5 jap import a few months back, LCI xDrive35i with pano sunroof, side cameras for top-down reversing view, sports suspension, leather seats, fandangled rims which tbh I don't really like. Queue a few other upgrades and improvements: Region fixes Radio - VO Coding Maps - ongoing, fairly tricky Have changed all region settings Have put a cloned drive image on - an ECE (europe) image I got off the web Remove TV from CIC, NCSexpert to disable this one Remove legal disclaimer from iDrive, NCSexpert option to remove this too Added tow bar Got the mechanical parts from NZ Got an OEM spec wiring kit from US, had to change a few wires around to go from US spec trailers to NZ, and add it to the spec via VO coding Replace HDD with a larger SSD for increased music storage - complete it's picky about the PATA to m.2 adapter apparently, second try got it - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017VQT5YW/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 Ableconn IIDE-MSAT mSATA SSD to 2.5-Inch IDE, note, you must select the IDE and Msata to IDE options Added spare key, got a bloke to do it as it required special gear to read data of the CAS3 system Should have disabled all other keys before he did this as from what I've read this would have given the new key comfort access feature, which it doesn't have now as it is in slot 8 Future Put in high beam assist, likely needs a new mirror unit which has that feature, plus coding it in - wiring should be there since I have the auto-darkening mirrors Put in adaptive cruise, likely needs a new cruise stalk and radar unit - other parts should be there as it has active cruise (cruise with braking) Generally just chipping away at one or two of these at a time, might be a length process which may end up being too hard but it's an interesting task to try my hand at anyway! Happy to provide guidance at a fairly mid-high level to help others do similar. I've tried to keep some documentation and files of how I've done things...

Pramod knows his stuff and will sort you out. For others/discussion, I've been working through figuring out the maps process, alongside updating the hard drive to SSD, there's a lot of scattered info around what can/can't be done so it's a bit of work to sift through it... Radio is easy, just settings in NCSexpert.

Thanks Andrew, you're right in that the electric brakes line just ends up at a plug as I don't have an electric brake controller installed. I got out there today to trace out wires, long story short is the harness is different between US and EU versions (probably could have seen that coming if I'd realised that trailer wiring convention was different between countries). Currently I've swapped the pins on the AHM connector from #14 Parking Light to #1 Brake light to get the brake lights out to the trailer, though there is no space left for a reverse light, which there wasn't an option to swap for anyway as the pin size was different. I don't think reversing lights are mandatory but will order some pins so I can re-terminate and move wires around to make it work with our 7pin plugs. I do like the US style plug though, the blade connections look far superior to the NZ split pin style which are forever needing a screwdriver stuck down them to get them to make a connection. The wiring diagrams in ISTA were super helpful for this too, would recomend.

Hi All, I installed an OEM electrical kit to go with a locally made tow bar, but when trying to test it I've found I can only get it to function in US mode (LAENDERVARIANTE_AHM - COUNTRY VARIANT TRAILER MODULE set to US) and using the 4pin adapter, US combines the indicator with stop lamps so the indicators both light up when the brake light is pressed, and the other line covering running lamps (on when lights are on). Which is all well and good, apart from us not being in the US and having entirely different trailer wiring/laws over here. So I changed it (back) to ECE, and now the indicators work without the brakes on that circuit; but I can't find where the brake lights are supposed to be run out to. The kit came with the Round 7Pin Blade connector which has the following wiring printed on the cap Right and Left turn work as advertised, as does the +12V (and Ground), reverse doesn't light up (after getting a freind so it didn't go into park every time I got out to look), electric brakes don't light up, tail lights do come on/off with the car's park lamps. The system integrates properly with car otherwise, showing the Towing Icon in place of the rear PDC radar area, and it does come up with rear brake light fault. Is it something as simple as not enough load on the Brake light circuit (I'm using some LED bulbs I had lying around) and it not sending power to it? Or is there some wiring changes I need to make to the AHM module harness to bring the right signals out to the connector? Or is it a bad module or something, I'm a bit lost which avenue to pursue next... It's raining out so I pulled the wiring diagram from ISTA and it looks like a few wires might not be there, 10 listed as going to the Trailer Socket but only 7 in it, , anyone come across something like this before?

Wash and wax for the X5, she just rolled over the 100k milestone so deserved a treat right!

Pulled my CIC out to remove the band expander, they've butchered the antenna wiring, disgraceful job, so I'm wondering if I can swap out the cables from the diversity antenna unit, to use the non-butchered cable that was originally Brown/Beige with the black housings swapped to give me FM/AM, as far as I can tell the Brown/Beige on is for Digital Audio Broadcasting which we don't have in NZ so shouldn't be missed... Future plan, replace spinney drive in the CIC with an SSD...

Cheers mate, booked with mainfreight.

Can you get one side closer than the other? that might tell you where the jam is, ie, if one side goes in and the other comes out, it's probably in the center. For me, I had one side stuck and the other free, turned out I had pinched the gasket plate part into one of the dowel holes and it had bound up. It was around that point I decided it was a prick of a job and that next time I'd take the whole engine out... or at least get a hoist! Credit for taking on this as a lockdown project though!

M54B30, on a standard size pallet with some ancillaries.

Hi All, Does anyone have recommendations for moving an engine from Whangaparoa (just north of Auckland) to Omokoroa (just north of Tauranga)? Or fancies getting in on the job themselves... It can wait for Level 3... I've looked at the usual suspect (Mainfreight, est $300-350) but not sure who (if anyone) else I should ask. cheers - John

Don't recall any silver schmoo, only other place I can think of with copper is the crush washer, but I've not heard of those making flakes like that. Tbh, I wanted an x5 anyway and to repower the e36 anyway

Saw the flakes, certainly they're more at the sparkle end than the chunk end, and nothing I could see in the filter.

So I found a bit of copper in the last oil change (wish I'd known that before faffed around getting a wof), which has kicked this project into the next gear, which was always the longer term plan anyway. I'm planning on a repower, thinking M54B30 based, 6speed manual, large case LSD, upsized half shafts and chassis strengthening to suit max 500Nm. Got an E70 x5 to get around in for the meantime...

Hi All, Recently purchased an E70 (2010 Xdrive35) and wish to fit a tow bar for the odd trailer trip. I'm aware not all are created equal, especially in the integration with electrickery bits, disabling PDCs, adjusting reversing camera and whatnot. Does anyone have recommendations for a good solution? I can do the appropriate coding so it knows what's what...

I've also gone with a cheapie from Aliexpress, rats ate the bottle so I rethreaded it for standard soft drink bottles, 600mm pump bottle goes well and does a whole car with a bit to spare. Foam is certainly the way to go for washing cars.

sh*t yeh, if you were in the BOP I'd be over for a look...

No worries, it's refreshing to see someone on a forum take on board a correction so full credit for that.