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Cammsport

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Posts posted by Cammsport


  1. 26 minutes ago, GorGasm said:

    Accord, Mazda 6, Toyota whatever.  Get a euro if you like expenses.  Japper is going to cost you nothing.

    https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/honda/auction-2586273036.htm?rsqid=682498422e8f47309a0a8526e102ea67-007

     

     

    I have 3 euros at the moment and I don't regret it. More car for your buck IMO. Or maybe it's my subconscious-spanner-swinging side of me that wants another car to work on ?


  2. I'm on the hunt for a commuter (250km a week, open road). My budget is $7,000. $8,000 at an absolute push. I have a few points that I'd like it to meet, please let me know your thoughts and options. 

    - I'd like it to be Euro, if not BMW

    - <160,000kms

    - Economical (better than 11L/100km)

    - 4 doors (car seat occasionally)

    - Modern ish (newer than 2000)

    - Reliable (subjective I guess)

    We've been looking at E87s and MK5 Golf's. Even got curious at a diesel Peugeot hatch. Very interested in everyone's thoughts! 

     


  3. I just flicked an email through to our broker (we use Swann and Star). She replied:

    "No additional cost, we just need to submit an application. 
     
    Once the application is accepted, you just need to notify us each track day you wish to attend and we'll notify your insurer and let you know once they've confirmed. Main thing with track cover is third party liability is deleted but before each track event drivers normally sign a waiver to their right to pursue a third party.
     
    I'll flick you through the relevant form tomorrow."
     
    Will enquire tomorrow about if there's an increase in excess etc, otherwise it sounds too good to be true. 

  4. Both sets are 17" x 8" et 20 as they're essentially the same barrel/lip, with different faces. Feel free to message. Will have to wait a couple days to be able to get more recent photos of the RC090. However, this is a photo before I polished the lips. 

    20200509_194356.thumb.jpg.fdf9d452c6ee7a3cbb8a11c454ac27f5.jpg


  5. 11 hours ago, KwS said:

    Yeah, I paid VAT and then GST, and then a covid surcharge, and then a high value surcharge and then the shipping fee... all for it to sit at the airport with no communication.

    Sad face.

    Slightly off topic but I've got an order almost ready to go with FCP. The summary doesn't look to include tax, and when calculating the duty on the "what's my duty" website it says no duty on shipments <$1000nzd. I thought the new rules stated GST is to be applied to everything? Probably an easy question for someone. 

    • Like 1

  6. Apologies if this had been discussed on here already but I can't find any mention of what to do with regards to car maintenance during lockdown. We were given notice today that we are classified as essential, so the commute to work will resume. We were wondering what the story is if you were unfortunate enough to have a flat, water pump give up etc. Public transport isn't an option for us (remote power station). Are ALL mechanics closed? Anyone in the parts supply industry on here? Shipping of parts still available? I'm typically not a take-your-car-to-the-shop kind of guy so would prefer access to parts.

    I understand this is super low priority for some and hope everyone gets through this tough time as well as possible. Thought this would be the best place to ask some people who may be in the know.


  7. Had a wee dabble at the drags last night for the first time. 

    IMG_20200314_055208_476.thumb.jpg.3f2f995f46980ab6544c3524d2ecf33a.jpg

    Had alot of fun! It was the 2nd to last round for the season so I was fortunate to be able to do pass after pass without any queues or interruption. Managed to do 10 passes and we still hadn't got into the competitive side of it. 

    20200314_142417.thumb.jpg.570f8080c983b6daee4fcbdc46504d67.jpg

    From the get go I was surprised at the time I was getting. At a guess I thought I'd be into the high 13's but after the first pass I was left red faced with a 14.8

    20200314_142329.thumb.jpg.f6ae5b389852481571294fdaba7cfd2b.jpg

    After about 5 passes I was starting to get the hang of the staging process, getting traction, not bogging down, not worrying about the person next to me, gears etc. 20200314_142350.thumb.jpg.b1526dd3a46ca7d6da04fd98bed77796.jpg

    A mate text me (just happens to be this guy... https://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/news/article.cfm?c_id=1&objectid=12314779. He cut his teeth on racing Hondas at this track, so I knew i could trust his advice) and said to drop the rear tyre pressure to 15psi. Lo and behold, I managed to basically shave half a second by leaving the line at higher revs and get a personal best of 14.2. Next time (28th of March) I want to be able to get to the 13s. The above mentioned mate said he'll lend me some proper wheels, perks of the early Hondas and the e30 having the same stud pattern! I'll also take out the sub, spare tyre in an attempt to shave a 0.1 or so off. All in all, heaps of fun and I was stoked the motor/diff/cooling swap stood up to the evening at Meremere. 

    • Like 8

  8. 2 hours ago, nick496 said:

    If the shifters were level in this photo, I've just taken the lines from the right gearbox, and matched at the upper starter bolt.
    Capture.PNG.2c87cf96980615e91316e202509066a0.PNG

    Rotated 10 degrees, and she's pretty close to matching up on the holes.
    Capture2.PNG.a3c9f7ad7069de57bb41dde08fc58e3a.PNG

    What you really want to look at is how level the top of the starter is in comparison.

    Thanks for that Nick! I see what you mean. The G240 stays in then. As @polley said, it should be strong enough. @polley was this turbo M50 in an e30? Either way, do you have a thread on the build? 

    • Like 1

  9. Remembered that I had another G240 sitting under the workbench. Although its from an early M40 E36 I'm fairly sure it's the same as the G240 that came with my FL M40 E30. 

    Thought I'd pull it out and have a comparison.

    20200207_174151.thumb.jpg.c251b6965808d1079fe30a3035aba16d.jpg20200207_174427.thumb.jpg.651719f9ebc116388507a48236700af2.jpg

     

    The G240 (mucky one on the left) weighs in wet at 33kgs and the G260 wet is 35kgs.

    Mounting heoles with the gear selectors at the 12 o'clock position seem to be almost identical to the point where I can't see a difference in angle. Hard to show in pictures without a bit of parallax error. I know that there were different versions of the 260 box released, could this be compatible with the 24 valve engines? 

    20200207_174213.thumb.jpg.ddff8512b601d8cc8153d6da2e0ed3d9.jpg20200207_174413.thumb.jpg.0e2648be3f5b1d25468f20b1fa8251d3.jpg

    Regarding strength, I've sent Kayne Barrie a message to see if he could shed some light ?

    12 minutes ago, polley said:

    Not only that, driveshaft lengths are different between 240 and 260

    Have both driveshafts. 


  10. Hi all,

    Wondering if anyone has any real world expertise on these gearboxes. I have an E30 with a 240 in it at the moment and a 260 sitting in the shed. The ratios seem to be very similar so i think the only advantage would be the strength aspect. Has anyone actually had a look into the internals of these boxes? Is the 260 actually stronger? Is it worth pulling the 240 and replacing it with the 260?  


  11. 43 minutes ago, e88dood said:

    Thanks all.  I ended up with the Provident one from the dealer.  I have 4yrs coverage in total.  It's an interesting set up as the dealer gave me 1yr and this 3yr one starts when that one ends.  So the 1 year could possibly be like a trial.  If they wrongfully fail to payout in my first year, then I will try my best to have the other 3yr contract which hasn't started, to be cancelled (maybe that is futile but could get a lawyer mate involved).  I have gone through the fine print so I don't get caught out.  Just had a reputable euro shop do full service, the works, and will have all of the policies requirements signed off in the booklet for this service and keep invoices.

    Congrats on the purchase and hopefully you never have to use the warranty! 

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