Mad_Max

Yeah exactly why I'm planning on doing it sooner rather than waiting for the service indicator. I scanned it with INPA before buying it, all stored fault codes seemed to be mostly lights and the steering angle sensor but I didn't spend a lot of time checking everything. Will have to have a play with the OBC menu as it's locked atm. Seems to be just a puff of diesel smoke from what I can tell, and it's definitely only on a cold start. It's got service history from Greys in Christchurch until late 2013, then an indy in 2014 which is when I think the original owner sold it, hence why I'm leaning towards changing everything I can. Yep definitely has an auxiliary heater, I was wondering what that box was for lol just haven't had a lot of time to research things yet. That's some great info thanks @NRJ, thinking I might play it safe and swap out the oil feed line while changing the oil just in case the turbo isn't quite getting enough oil, better safe than sorry, and check the manifold at the same time. And will check the suspension out when I can get it to my local and throw it on his hoist, though dare say everything that's ever needed done on this thing has been done by the first owner. Yeah thinking do as @Eagle suggest and check temp through the OBC as the gauge itself could also be faulty, and if that's reading less than it should, a new thermostat will hopefully sort that. It's done some 355k so high mileage, however the first owner was driving from Mandeville to Queenstown and back (150k each way) 6 days a week so a lot of hot running, there's not one sign of any oil or fluid leaks anywhere and it drives and handles really well so I'm pretty confident that, apart from a few minor issues, it should last a few years yet, as long as I look after it.

So having picked this thing up a couple of weeks ago, it's time to go right through it and service everything so I know everything it up to date. It'll be getting a fresh service, new air, fuel and oil filters, new oil etc. What other things should be on the list? Would it be a wise idea to change transmission and transfer case fluids? Diff oils? A few issues that I have noticed - first, on cold start, there is a very small cloud of smoke from the exhaust - only happens on cold starts, doesn't smoke at all when driving. I'm thinking this is normal? Temp gauges normally sits between 1/3 and 1/2, which seems a bit odd to me (should normally be around the 1/2 mark I thought), handbook claims this is normal - is the thermostat worth replacing? I also get a diesel smell when it's cold, I've been lead to believe these things have a small auxiliary heater that runs off diesel to get heat flowing in the cabin quicker - is there some way of eliminating that diesel smell? A filter or an exhaust somewhere that could be blocked on that system? The last worrying thing is a whistle from the turbo - definitely worse when cold. I'm hoping some new oil will sort this, what else should I be looking for before panicking? I'm assuming the standard leaks and potentially bad gaskets/hoses? Any common problems people are aware of? All in all, it drives well, has a ton of power, there's no real vibrations or noises (other than those noted above) so I think it should last a while with some TLC.

Sorry if this has been asked before, I've searched and got lost in the stack of audio/ICE threads...... Having just picked up an '06 E53 X5 3.0D, I've noticed it has a horribly massive blind spot when reversing, big enough to run over a child, a dog, a small town...... never felt the need for one before until now........ Are there any plug and play factory based units that will support an aftermarket camera being retrofitted? I don't care if sat nav ever works, more than happy to use my phone for navigation, and can wire a camera in piece of piss. Bluetooth would definitely be handy but I have a decent work-around to that if that's not possible to incorporate. I'd rather not go down the path of replacing the whole unit with some el-cheapo Android unit, if that's the only solution then I'd just get a camera kit with a small screen to mount somewhere and be done with it (just not that keep on having something attached to the windscreen or in an oddball place to look at), ideally I would prefer something in dash that keeps all the functionality of the factory MID and stereo system, that isn't a PITA to rewire absolutely everything, doesn't cost my left testicle to install and keeps the factory appearance.

Na man, Barra the world is the new way, much more power and a lot more reliability for less work ????. Either way, good luck on your journeys, should be a fun project.

Technically did it yesterday, picked up the new one...... whilst on the hunt for a Touring, stumbled across a (relatively) local '06 X5 diesel...... pretty damn straight and tidy, been well serviced and maintained. Higher k's but couldn't say no at the price I got it for lol. Couple of minor issues to sort but nothing needs done right now apart from a good clean inside. Good timing too, as the Primevil daily is now pretty much undriveable hahaha.

Na its just a little crooked, about 3mm too low on the right hand side lol

Do I want? Oh hell yes................ Can I afford at this point in time? Ah F**K no, damnit. Hahaha

No, not quite how it will work. Customs Duty is only collected if the duty on the $NZ value including shipping is $60 or more. They still calculate how much the duty is first to see if you're liable. If the duty is under $60, you'll pay GST only. However, if the duty is more than $60 you'll be [paying GST on everything including the customs duty. For arguments sake, you get parts sent over, total landed cost including freight is $200 and deemed not to get the customs duty charged, you'll pay GST on $200. If total landed cost including freight is $500, and a duty is charged, you'll pay GST on the landed cost plus the duty. Again, it's a tax on top of a tax.

Why aren't they coming off the diff? Are you having trouble getting the bolts undone? Cost of a courier each way I'll happily send you my E sockets that will do it, 3/8" drive, if that'll make life easier for you.

Unfortunately the E34 that I was hanging to see (and most interested in) has been sold to someone else before I got a chance.... So the hunt is still on if anyone knows any others popping up for sale.

Will call late this afternoon/early evening, thanks Brent

Just FYI, bit of a watch but it's interesting to see the results, done by an independent guy that has no affiliations with any company.

Definitely. When's the best time to call?

Agreed completely @coop, while it's rare at the moment that I'd need to tow a car, there are other tow vehicles much more suited to doing that that would be used if I get a 3 series. Hence why all that is being considered and thought of before any purchases made. What's legal and what's common sense seem to be a couple of different things these days

Comes down to what "proof" you can provide. For example, my family has just sent part of an inherited estate over to me here in NZ, from Aus. We have had to show the IRD the will which names me as a beneficiary to prove that these items are in fact either a "gift" or were already owned by me while I was in Aus (and were left in Aus) and therefore should be free of any taxes - they still make you put a $$$ value to the items. Importing a car that I owned in Aus many years ago, I had to sign all sorts of declarations from the IRD that I wasn't going to sell it within 12 months, or GST and import duties would be payable based on the market vale of the car, regardless of what I sold it for. If the IRD doesn't agree, you pay tax - and if they don't agree with the value you list, they will adjust it to what they want to, and charge GST on that. Makes it bloody hard for those of us with family and friends overseas who send us presents when the IRD can pick and choose what they deem to be a "gift".

And to complicate it even more, even if you get the tax back from the country of origin, the GST component will still be based on the total original price, good luck getting it adjusted to the price + freight before any tax is added in the country of origin.

Hahaha brute force for the win!!

Sadly, Graham has just informed me his Touring is a non starter now, taking that out of the running.......

Not just that, but you're also paying any local taxes and duties in the country of purchase, so collecting GST at this end as well is putting a tax on top of a tax.

So I've been offered an E46 325i manual Touring from a member on here, which is tempting as well........ decisions, decisions lol. Just need to figure out this elusive E34 and decide hahaha.

Just a thought, as we are all obviously struggling a bit to put a realistic ball park value on it, would it be worth spending the money to get it professionally appraised? Might give a fairer indication, as there's a couple on TardeMe varying from $18k to $40k, both autos, one has done 100k more than the other, both look to be in similar condition...... A registered valuation would also help give some justification to a selling price at the time, rather than "public opinion".

Gotcha now ?. Cheater trick that's a little brutal to remove the flanges. Puller should go over the flange and onto the end of the axle, if it doesn't fit plan B is just a large slide hammer onto the flange. If the puller fits, it makes life easier. Put as much tension on it as you can, then use your butane torch to heat just the flange. Use a CO2 fire extinguisher on the axle to help cool it real quick while the flange is hot. Expansion of the flange and contraction of the axle, and the shock of cooling the axle quickly, should help break it free ?. The other trick would be to try concentrated heat on the flange itself, like an arc welder. Run a bead around the flange (with pressure on it), the concentrated heat may be enough to expand just the flange without enough heat penetrating the axle. It's brutal but I've done the heat/extinguisher trick before to other parts with success.

Yep 3/8" is all I use, and the shortest extension possible. Haven't broken a socket, extension or ratchet yet lol. Sorry I missed what exactly you're trying to do here? And I'm assuming E36 yeah? Is it the wheel bearings you're trying to replace?

Using the standard Facebook "miles to k's conversion" most use, that's something like 689,342k's, so very high mileage...... I'll give her $100 (again Facebook conversion rates ??). Na seriously think I just about made a mess in my pants at those pics, looks like it's in great, honest condition for it's age and should fetch a worthy price, I couldn't even ballpark what it should go for but hope she gets reasonable offers for it.

I'm assuming that's what he means... in which case, here's my trick, others may know other ways. Short extension (3" or so), and attack the 3 bolts on either side at the top. I can usually undo 4 bolts aside that way, then spin the diff so the remaining bolts are at the top and go again. Then, if the spline on the axle is free and not seized to the hub, the whole axle will pull through the centre of the bearing, job done.