sobanoodle

Think it's something else, free software.

I just use an Enet cable from eBay, works without issues. The same cable is used for E-sys, ISTA +/P etc.

Nice, are you planning to place an order?

I just add another one in a hope to save TS's time... and water https://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/threads/water-issue-help.565835/

This. https://forum.bmw5.co.uk/topic/116098-heavy-rain-water-leak/ or tons of other similar topics.

Pretty good prices and shipping costs, just wish they would deduct VAT...

Or a heap of other options... GCs are sexy.

I have a set of Thule Wingbar Edge with a fitkit for $400.

Do you have a link?

Where did you go to? Looking for a staggered set of 19s for 3er, scored a set of 403m to replace stock 18s.

What sort of rule consumption do you get when daily driven, both in a sensible and not so manner

The way I have done it and assuming you have a NBT system not CIC then yes you do not need to touch the HDD at all. Way simpler and quicker than CIC conversion , in that case I had to clone ECE HDD.

Not really, would you recommend someone in Auckland? And how much does it normally cost? I'm guessing a proper key programmer is required? Another thing, can a F06/F10/F11 key (four buttons: lock/unlock/boot/welcome lights) be reprogrammed for f30/f31 (there buttons: lock/unlock/boot), both vehicles have comfort access?

Thanks, how can I found out? The old one is a left over from a 2011 F11 after it was written off.

Is it possible to reprogram a key from one bmw to another? Or has to be a virgin key to start with? Cheers

The tint got partially re-done/fixed and is 90% all good now (if I'm being pedantic). Not sure I'll go to them again though.. In other news. Scored a cheap set of Bilstein B16 for the touring, no plans to slam it as it's already low enough but should be a decent handling and ride quality upgrade. All goes well I'll have them in over the upcoming long weekend. Also went to the well known wrecker mentioned above... Seriously annoyed with the dude as the steering wheel was nowhere near as good or as described/confirmed prior to. Had a 5mmx5mm patch of missing leather right at 12 o'clock position as well as a few decent pressure marks and scratches. He was super casual about it, sort of "don't like it don't buy, someone else will" or "I'm sure you can fix that”, annoyingly I had to drive 90km return trip to find that out. Somewhat typical of a wrecker.

In other news. I had the dealership to replace the O2 sensor, no more error code for that one. I fiddled with ISTA+ last night and resetted a few adaptations which transformed the car drastically. It certainly pulls alright now, not that the wife will be much concerned about that or will even notice but I certainly am. Also flashed the nbt-hu with the latest ECE spec firmware, she's fully converted to ECE now.

That was on par or slightly cheaper (vs $499 or $450 + get). And this is a well-known place, you see some fancy stuff on their fb or instagram. I'm getting to that stage in my life when I cbf doing certain things myself and just let professionals do what they're supposed to do best...

I'll have another look tomorrow morning, but a few spots were right in the center. Somewhat annoying after paying $450, wonder if a Tesla or a brand new X5 they had in there at the same time ended up with a few bubbles too..

Yep noticed those edge ones in the workshop and was told it's ok-ish and most of it should go away. I somewhat expected them to return the car with clean windows, doesn't really take that long and from a customer's point of view would've gone a long way...

Had the car fully tinted today at a very well-known establishment on the shore. Looked pretty good apart from the windows being rather dirty on the outside, and a few noticable streaks on the inside. I've just cleaned the windows on the outside and noticed a fair few air bubbles that are caused by dust specs trapped underneath the film. Before I go back to them, is this normal and somewhat expected or say a few air bubbles are acceptable?

As per the title, ideally I am looking for a Thule 4023 fitkit only as I have a set of black Thule Edgebars ready to go, just no fitting kit 😕 Cheers

Productive day today. NBT is fully converted to ECE/NZ - radio frequency extended, Australia and New Zealand 2021 Next Maps are installed. Overall, much easier and less involving conversion than what I did with CIC. Maps can be sourced online for free, as well as FSC code generators - had to fiddle with that one as it did not have an option for 2021 maps, just added is manually and was able to generate a code. The major issue was the rejected A0 FSC (ECE/US maps) as the vehicle originally came with a A1 (Asia) FSC. $60 later and I have retrofit FSC package to activate A0, super easy I might still flash NBT to be completely Euro spec but as of right now I cannot really be bothered. To sum-up, in order to convert your Japanese NBT system/maps to New Zealand/ECE you need the following: - Remove options 807 and 852 form FA and replace with 810 and 853 (ECE spec, English) - VO-code NBT and Kombi with modified FA - Source Next maps (google) - Use Jaeger's FSC generator to generate activation code (google) - Source a FSC NBT retrofit pack to change the status of NBT's FSC A0 from rejected to accepted (google, costs US$40) - Upload maps to a freshly formatted usb stick and initiate map update, use previously generated FSC code Just need to get it tinted now. Also found a third party Japanese hardware installed in the car, suspect it is a TV that is triggered by holding the menu button or by just pressing the preset 1 button. Later tonight found two little switches hidden in the passenger foot well, one disables the system completely, and another one appears to flick between different modes. I first got excited and thought it was an MMI box/Carplay but not 😕 Might trace and rip it out one day.

Will do some later. Has anyone got a copy of Australia/ New Zealand Next maps by a chance? 2020 or even better 2021 which are out already. Window tinting place recommendations in Auckland, who's the best in terms of price/quality? North Shore is preferred. The car got no factory tints at all, gets pretty hot and I certainly hate to be in a fish bowl... Coded NBT and Kombi from Japan to ECE so the radio and other bits are converted to NZ. How just need to get hold of the maps to finish the conversion. Lots of other codings bits done here and there to make the car more user friendly: - DRL activated - removed I-drive and camera warnings, seatbelt warnings etc - added folding mirrors on lock/unlock -tailgate can be opened and closed with the cabin button, one touch close operation with remote - M-sport welcome screens for I-drive and Kombi and a few other things Scored an original boot carpet/mat with a bumper protector extension for $50, happy days

Paid a deposit on a 2013 320D M-Sport touring. Eurosurgeon had a look at it today and couldn't find much more than a faulty sensor. Dealer is getting the sensor sorted and all goes well I'll be picking her up on Friday. Now I just need to do a bit of a research on how to convert NBT from JDM to ECE spec and load NZ maps. Radio conversion is easy. A bit of coding to do too to remove all unnecessary warnings, add DRL, folding mirrors and so on. Thank you all for your input.