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What torque figures you looking for?

Leave it the way it is... looks bloody marvellous! Love the chrome and the black centre wheels :thumb: Keep Gus out of it, he wants to crash it...

Right, relay 8 is for foglamps, relay 4 is dipped beam and relay 3 is high beam. fuses 1,2 are LH and RH headlamps. Fuses 13 and 14 are LH and RH dipped headlamps. The fact that the lights only come on when the stalk is pulled to the passing position will tell you that the power to the lights is not getting past the light switch. The passing beam function is on a separate circuit so does not go through the switch. Either you don't have any power getting to the light switch or the switch itself is **^%^&*& and power is not getting out. The chances of both relays not working or all 4 fuses being blown are slim but it pays to check this out first just in case your mate managed to blow everything somehow. It is possible that the problem is inside the fusebox in that the power rail is not connecting to the headlight relays. Maybe it is broken off but don't dig around in there unless you have a bit of knowledge or you could kill the whole car...

detail pics...

Ok, series of pics should sort out your probems. This pic shows the hose assembly on my M325 motor. It does not fit this motor properly as there are no mounting points on it. I couldn't get a decent pic on the F/L so I pulled it out and put it on this motor so you could see the route more clearly. (the rad needed a flush and new antifreeze so gave me an excuse to do it... ) It runs between the timing cover and the fan but above the fanbelt. There should be a mounting lug on the front of the timing cover where the red arrow is pointing and the (red) bracket on the metal pipe fixes to this with a short 6mm bolt. The green arrow points to the bracket on the other side that bolts to a lug off the side of the waterpump. I have included pics of the pipe at various angles in the next post. The green arrow points to the waterpump bracket and the red arrow to the timing cover bracket. The dimension across the flat area is 24mm at the thickest (arrowed) and the actual length of the whole metal pipe is approx 400mm from end to end. The 3 views (in order) show behind, front and top view on the second posted pic.

Did anybody manage to download a copy of it? I got there too late and would like to lay my hands on one somehow.

Do you need a detailed pic of that pipe setup?

Pic shows pre F/L with motronic ignition with idle valve circled (lhs motor) and rhs shows F/L motor with motronic ign with the idle valve circled.

In the second pic I have arrowed the Gus thingy... Which setup do you have? Pics might be a bit confusing. In the first one the thermostat is linked to the bottom of the radiator on the passenger side. In the second pic the thermostat is linked across the front of the motor to the bottom of the radiator on the driver's side. So will depend which radiator you have in your car.

This one has that rectangular thing Gus talks about running between the fan and the timing belt cover..

There are different setups. This photo shows one where the hose does not cross under the fan.

And here I was thinking that it was only the oldest profession in the world that did their job lying on their backs with their feet in the air..!!! Enter Gus...

Yup, dem giant economy sized ones.... On the subject, I still havn't managed to see that one you spoke about at the Mobil here...???? No sign every time I been there... (note my disappointment!)

could be this, it needs to be set so it is closed when the throttle is on its stop and open when you just touch the throttle. You need a multimeter set to ohms and undo the 2 screws under it and set it up. Will see if I can find a pdf doc on how to do this. motronic ignition has the flat distributor on the front top of the cylinder head. Sounds like you have the idle valve there, will take a pic when I get home and post it.

Durban next to the seeeee..

Me come from Africa.... used to live in treeeeee

After that pic he posted of the oversize chicks on the poor old Ford pickup, I expect ANYTHING from him :bounce:

my, my Gus, forever the eternal optimist...

Absolutely agree with Andrew here, the box is such a *&&%*& mission to remove and replace that it is NOT worth trying to scrimp on bits that might fail. Maybe put unreconditioned hydraulic cylinders on if you are short of cash, as they are relatively easy to remove later, but put a new clutch kit (clutch plate, pressure plate and release bearing) and new pilot bearing in to save yourself a lot of hassle and money if the second hand clutch fails!

This is a pic with the lever circled that I suspect is broken off...

Now pull down hard on the front of the glovebox. This will pull the bracket away from the dash and expose the top of the catch and the 2 locking lugs. (circled in the photo). Just compress these inwards and the glovebox will open. Good luck !!!!

Next, pull the mounting out and this will allow the glovebox to drop at the rear. This drop allowed me to pull the front down a bit and expose the 2 self tapping screws that hold the bracket that the latch locks through. Remove these 2 screws, circled in the pic...

Hi Gangee, welcome to Bimmersport.. Can sympathise with you, I destroyed a glove box years ago when the same thing happened to me. There is a small aluminium lever behind the catch which snapped off so it wouldn't open. I have just tried something on my 325 to open it and it worked. I don't think you will have any success with screwdrivers as Gus suggests as the little catches will be above the metal bracket which they lock through. I have taken a series of pics which show the method I used. I am pretty sure the 525 will be almost the same, maybe someone out there could correct any of the differences. First undo the bottom mounting nuts that hold the bracket that the glovebox hinge attaches to. You will probably have to peel the carpet down a bit. The 2 nuts tou need to undo are circled in the first pic...

Hey Ryan, my plates are 520mm x 110mm. Could you see if your holders are the right size? Could save me a wasted trip to my nearest Supacheap which happens to be in Auckland... Jazz, I worry about you sometimes... you certainly have a devious mind. Remind me never to piss you off!!! :bowdown:

Not sure, had this a few times and fixed it but can't put my finger on what caused it each time. I assume you have motronic ign and an idle valve? I check for air leaks (cracked rubber boot etc) and open and clean all electrical contacts, (idle valve, air flow meter etc. This normally sorts it out. So I am never sure what I did actually fixed the problem. Could possibly be the the idle valve sticking. If you suspect this, just swap with a mate and see if it sorts the problem and gives the problem to your mate... Is your car in good tune? Air/fuel mix good? Plugs gapped properly? HT leads have correct resistance? fun, fun, fun... :banghead: