topless

Larger bore master cylinder, smaller bore slave cylinder or increase the lever distance on the clutch pedal. All these will probably require you put a stop on the clutch pedal to prevent the slave cylinder popping open on depression.Also, the spring fingers on the pressure plate can be made to release more quickly by putting thicker, higher tensile etc ones in but normally makes the clutch quite harsh with not much slip, and you have to have a good buddy in the clutch business to custom make one for you.

I thought A was for aged... normally old farts drive BM's with aged transmission...

under the panel below your steering column..

That red mtech2 in the photo is a South African 325iS with the 2.7 motor, (the numberplate is a dead giveaway, comes from Gauteng...)a good one will leave a standard M325i for dead.. Gus, how's that for a decent colour for your project!!!

yeh, little siht kept very quiet about it on sunday.. despite age and birthdays being discussed!!

Hey Andrew, have a great day, congrats on reaching the first hurdle of 'old-fartedness..!' cheers William and Allison

Photo shows camshaft aligning marks. The lower timing cover needs to be temp refitted along with the crank pulley and the notch on the pulley is to be aligned with the pointer on the timing cover. Align camshaft as per photo.

Was it still working? If it was, just go to your friendly auto aircon shop and ask them to degass it for you. They shouldn't charge too much. If it wasn't, just remove it, but gently undo the pipes as there may be some residual gas in it, and it freezes when it comes out at high speed, can freeze your hand if it comes in contact with it.

I could give you a hand at my place, will take a while though depending on what your car has at the moment. Is it currently a manual? You will need quite a list of bits on top of the engine/gearbox you now have to do the job properly. Is the motor you can get out of a F/L? I will work on a list for you.

Problem here is if you have an accident and the car is examined and the mods are not certed, you will most likely not be paid out and might even be held responsible for the other guys damages... not worth it, get them certed IMO...

I'm sure Gus and I could find a handy cliff for it....

Gap between starter alignment plate and front face of ring gear (to teeth) is 24mm measured with a vernier. Only one spacer on crank.

Maybe she can't... well, there is always this avenue open... (I apologise for reposting this pic...)

That should just fit together, no hammering of any sort. It is a tapered fit so the only way it wouldn't fit is if the tie rod pin diameter is too big, meaning you got the wrong tie rod... otherwise I have no idea..????

Udit, can't remember the exact sequence to removing your dash, last did one in that model at least 10 yrs ago. Age and senility is creeping in now... They are pretty much the same though. The tricky bit is to completely detach the wiring loom that they attach to the dash, and they tend to hook up on the aircon/heater unit sometimes and also on a clip that secures it at the windscreen side of the dash in the middle. Also, remove the door rubbers on both sides. This will give you just that little more room to pull it foward. Don't try to remove with the heater controls in place, undo this and leave behind. If you can lower your steering column, this will help a lot.

Hey Carl, does this mean you think all women should be obscene and not heard...?? :confused:

You are trying to put these 2 together???

Have done this to a 2.0l M10 motor we put in an E30 and also to a 3.5l M30 motor we put in another E30, but never to a M20 motor. Both the motors turned into screamers, especially the M30 when you banged the throttle wide open. The sound through the triple 45 webers etc was really something else. One problem... in both motors, when you really put you foot down hard, you needed a fuel bowser to follow you around...

I'm not sure what you are trying to describe here.. you certainly don't need a tool to insert the tie rod into the steering arm on the strut. (this is what I think you are trying to describe). Have a look at the top of this forum, there is a sticky of the Hayes manual. It has some pretty detailed pics etc to help you overhaul the front suspension. If this doesn't help you, try putting up a pic showing what you are battling with... cheers William

Don't think it is that difficult a job, just plenty of things to take loose before it will come out. Takes me about 15 mins to remove the old one and about 20-25 mins to replace it. If I get EXTREMELY bored and there are enough people wanting to know how to do it, I will try to write a post on how to do it but it will be a VERY long post...

spsoitjki

I had to change the wiring in f/l I have now as it would only work with the key on but obviously seems this might be an oddity, so the most likely culprit would be the door switch. My cab had a faulty door switch... My bad...

Pre f/l e30's are wired differently to f/l. The door open/window working with ignition off only functions in the pre f/l. It is a simple job to change it in f/l models to work like the pre f/l models. You will need to locate the relay under the cubby and remove the switched power and replace with a permanent power source (which can be found in the large white terminal block in the same area). The main cause of it not working in cars wired for it is the door switch is not making earth contact. The switch has two contacts, one for the interior light, the other for the window relay, and both don't make proper contact. Just clean the contacts and wire the two points together.

Gus, the ali welding will destroy the waterpump seals unless you can completely strip the waterpump. What bit is broken off?

Talking about those plastic covers, sort of all-in-one with kick panel? Only one screw and you have to remove the rubber door seal in the vertical area in the door jamb. Otherwise no other clips etc I am aware of. I find it tends to hook on the carpet at the bottom and sometimes needs a bit of gentle levering. The passenger side one requires the removal of the bonnet lever as well... pic shows passenger side panel.