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I bought from these guys, discount to BMW club members, were really helpful and price was good after discount, and they will ship to you.

hey Ryan, you still with Supacheap?

same here, just had a big problem using my credit card ordering stuff over the internet so decided to go the safer way for now. Also would like to lay my hands on some plate holders, didn't think of it at the time I ordered.

I discarded the plug and used those male/female crimp on couplers in case I wanted to separate the looms sometime. I also used heat shrink over the couplers to waterproof them. $5 for connectors?? Havn't a clue what a plug with all the bits would cost, or even if it would be available. As it seems to be a faulty design prone to leaking and corroding, I thought it would be better to remove it and replace with something that would be waterproof...I had some hose (gen BMW) over from a previous job, probably $20 worth. Only one of the hoses was badly cracked, the others were good, and all were genuine BMW hose... wierd??? There is a plug that sits under a cover on the side of the fuse box in some of the earlier pre F/L that can cause problems with the temp gauge, not sure about the idling though. (check for air leaks that affect idle) The speedo is on another circuit altogether so I suspect maybe your dash cluster has a problem on the circuit board inside. It could either be a bad battery that has leaked causing corrosion on the circuit board, or just a bad connection between the board and the gauge cluster. The fact that it is intermittant suggests that it is a bad connection rather than a faulty circuit board. Check the pic of this SI board, the batteries (arrowed) and the connectors (circled) are the places to check. This board has had the batteries replaced by some genius (std batteries are much shorter) and has managed to destroy the board by cutting off some bits to make the larger batteries fit! Use some electrical contact cleaner on your connections to get them clean. (Dick Smith has this). Also use it on the plugs in the engine bay to get them clean.

this fella, very rapid delivery....plates

All you have succeeded in doing is make me extremely jealous !!!!! Luv those bits get Gus there with his tools listed in a previous thread.... that should sort it !!!

Isn't there a nice thread on this on bimmersport??

you can just put the clutch pedal onto your existing pedal mount. The mount is the same for the auto and manual, they just change the brake pedal for a bigger one and leave off the clutch pedal. Just saves the hassle of removing the whole thing from the car, just swap the pedals... (if this makes sense...) some F/L may still use the gearbox sensors, just pays to check now and save yourself some heartache later... there are places that will insert a stainless sleeve into the master/slave cyls thus preventing any further corrosion and pitting. Worth the cost IMO.

It is some sort of breather system for the fuel tank. Havn't figured what it does though. Still some way to go with the resto... made some changes though...

you will have to get rid of my wife first....

The best bit was they were only $135 delivered to my door for the pair.... sorry, didn't get the size of the pics quite right this time

after...

rear before..

after...

Just got my euro plates for my convertible. Makes a huge difference in my opinion... Some before and after pics follow... :bounce:

This box possibly doesn't have place for the sensors that mount on the bellhousing your car probably has. Might pay to check as it would be very difficult to adapt them if you need them and they are not there. The pilot bearing in the crank should be cheap (from the agents). Use loctite when fitting the flywheel. Also, check that the thrust bearing is still ok. Replace it if in doubt as removing the box is a sh*tty job and you don't want to do it again.. don't forget to grease up the release bearing slider with waterproof grease. Hopefully the box will have the slave cylinder attached. You will need the master cyl and piping and pedal (you don't have to change the whole pedal box). If you use old cylinders, recondition them first!!! Also the front bit of the propshaft has to be changed, and you may have to balance the propshaft after fitting it. Or just fit a complete manual one. As Gus says, the inhibitor switch is easy to disconnect, can detail it for you if necessary. You may have difficulty finding the pedal bit but the rest should be easy to find, cost will depend on who you are buying them from, but it is likely to cost more than $250 on top of the cost of the box.

I need some for my disintegrating old ones too.... will be interested in your review. BTW Gus, do you have power steering? Increased castor normally weights up the steering... my M325i doesn't have so possibly have to order some extra muscles with the bushes...

Just thought I would bring up the subject of fuel line maintenance and offer possible solutions to other problems I have seen some of you having recently. I have just acquired a F/L E30 325 and it was having some problems with starting, idle being erratic and temp gauge playing around, so I went looking for the cause. I had had this particular problem with a previous F/L, and had solved it after much hair pulling, so I immediately looked for the bast*rd plug which sits under the inlet manifold just in front of the starter. (Only some later F/L cars have it.) Found the bast*rd and tried to open it to clean the terminals and see if it had water in it. Got it apart eventually and discovered that all the terminals were badly corroded and, in the process of cleaning, a wire broke off, it was so badly corroded. I decided to remove the plug completely and replace it with these crimp male/female electrical terminals. Did this, used some heatshrink on each wire to waterproof it and taped it all up. In the process of doing this, I had to remove the airbox, so the fuel lines were then obvious. I immediately noticed that a T piece in the fuel line had no clamps on it!!! After some members' recent car fires, this was just a fire waiting to happen. I pulled this main fuel line to the pressure regulator off to put a hose clamp on, and noticed that what had appeared to be a perfectly good fuel line, had signs of fine cracks on it. I then totally removed it to more closely examine it and found it was in fact just about to split open.... bending it sharply produced some scary big cracks, and in the process of trying to photograph it, one split right through. So what had appeared to be good at first glance, was in fact ready to pack in, and probably ignite the car in the process. I then examined all the other fuel lines and found them ok. I replaced this line, reassembled the airbox and started the car. No more hard starting, idle good and temp gauge steady. No slight misfire anymore on hard acceleration. (I had put this down to spark plugs probably past their use by date). This is the second time I have had problems with this plug, so would suggest that those of you who have F/L cars, check it out closely especially if you are experiencing the problems I described above. I have attached a photo showing the guilty plug (now removed) and the fuel line showing the deep cracking that wasn't obvious on first glance. Just really posted this in the chance it might be of help to some of you with starting/idle problems, and encourage you to check your fuel lines for possible disasters. Good luck... (sorry for the essay..)

Dare I say it... I'd rather have Honda parts fit my BM than Holden... go the blue oval (and anything else) over holden anytime!!! heehee... All my info says +24 offset for e30 so +32 might require spacers. try before you buy.

Definitely machine the mags to locate on the hub. If you rely on the wheel studs only to hold the rim in place the chances of the wheel not being central are good. Also, all the forces are then borne by the studs as well and they could shear off, especially if you don't use longer studs. (This is assumong you are going for those cheap spacers that are just plates with holes machined out to suit the various pcd, the good spacers with the locating lip machined into them to support the rim are rather expensive, would probably be much cheaper to machine the rims in this case anyway...) When the lights go out, does everything go out including dash lights, parks etc? If this is the case, the main supply to the light switch is suspect. If just the headlights go out, I would have a good look at the switch itself.

what car now? M3? Will give them a yell and let you know how they do. cheers for that...

Hey Scott, I need to get the squab replaced on the driver's seat on a set of leather recaros. Where did you get yours done?

The pipe is the oil return to the sump. You have to depress it downwards. You will see it has a large spring at the base and will slide into the block at the spring end. Use a waterpump pliers to start it turning and pressure it downward when it rotates. Get it down as far as it will go, try to compress the spring completely. You cannot remove it from the block till the manifold is off. When replacing the manifold, put a new o-ring seal at the top of the pipe where it seats into the manifold. Put it into the block first and depress it right down. Mostly it will stay put while you put the manifold back, but sometimes it will be difficult and try to spring up. If it does, take it out and slightly deform the end that goes into the block so that it grips and stays down. Don't forget the spring. When the manifold is back in place, use the waterpump pliers to twist it upwards and make sure it seats well into the manifold or you will have a massive oil leak!!!

Toothpaste contains some sort of very fine grinding paste. I was told to use it once to remove some fine scratches from glass and it worked. Also, Brasso will work quicker but all of these will eventually go through the clearcoat. Be careful with acids, some will turn the clearcoat foggy. I use phosphoric acid to clean rims before I repaint them, mixed to about a 30% strength, and applied carefully with a toothbrush !!

sweet, glad to help...