topless

Just a thought here, does your new pump have a plastic or metal impeller? Reason is that the ones with the plastic impeller are known to be problematic... doing the belt with a new tensioner is the right way!! Will

my M325i 'vert shows around 7.6l/100 on open road regularly on the OBC, and, NO, I don't drive like Rog.... my M325i last open road consumption according to OBC was 8.1l/100. both above using cruise control when no need to get past the "resthome drivers", but cruising just below 110. wifey's M40 318 manual did 11.7km/l last fillup around town and does around 14km/l on open road. don't want to discuss my 320 auto consumption, 320 manual is around 9km/l on the open road and hell heavy around town, probably 7km/l..

I use spybot, spyboy is for gays...

That box is part of the check system, the panel above the rear view mirror. I have several spare, that is if I can find one..

Just some advice.. do NOT remove the fanbelt driving the fan until you have shocked the large nut holding the fan to the waterpump loose. It will secure it enough to allow a sharp blow to the spanner to loosten it. AND note that the fan securing nut is a left-hand thread. I will be doing this job soon on my M325 and intend to do a photo post of the job step by step if anyone is interested?? It is really a simple job if the right sequence is followed. And yes, crawling under the car can be necessary if you have an aircon radiator up front, otherwise you can access everything by removing the grill and radiator and working through the front. I also remove the bonnet to make things even easier.. Will

As Gus says, that bit (your idle control valve) normally buzzes. Check all contacts to your starter and battery and earth strap. Failing which, go to a decent auto sparky and get his opinion...

If you have an alarm/immobiliser fitted, it is possible for that to cause a buzzing and difficulty to start if the relay is faulty. So if the buzzing is from inside the cab, go for the immobiliser, outside, check the starter. Also check that the solenoid activator wire is firmly on the solenoid terminal and that the battery wire on the starter is tight and the contact terminal to the battery is clean. Also check the earth wire between the engine and motor is tight and making good contact. Do these basic checks first, getting the starter out is a really sh*tty job...

still same here, was wondering if maybe my komputter was faulty as usual but maybe not..?? but this new skin colour gets my vote.. :thumb: (this is one that doesn't display my side, anyone else?)

Many more Rog... keep the flag flying for us old fellas...

Sam, just dug all my doors/windows out of the container. Don't see one with securruit?? on it, but have others.. some are a browny tint and others a greeny one. what exactly is on your window and what tint? Have a couple of SA ones and the rest seem german Will

no coating would stand a chance with your driving Gus !!!!

Just a thought, the LUK clutches come with a coating on the pressure plate face which you must remove before assembling, come off with petrol. You did remove it..?

It is acually a tri-lingual anthem, first part is in Xhosa, second in Afrikaans and the last bit in English...

With the standard rear silencer it will probably still sound like your mother's car... The cam will just make it sound like it is misfiring on idle, not give you much if any performance increase and just trash the fuel consumption you are so proud of at the moment... The accelerator pedal on a 318 auto should be re-named the volume control. When you put your foot down on it nothing happens except the motor makes more noise... fitting a pod filter will simply make this nothing-happening noise louder so you could hear nothing happening above your sound system...

I can vouch for the quality of the LUK clutches, I would easily have fitted 100+ LUK kits with no failures, but then I always had the flywheel skimmed as part of the replacement. Will

HB youngster... Will n Al

This is much better.. I am using twin monitors, 21" and 19", the 21" at 1600*1200 and 19" at 1024*768 Some of the clickable smilies are not displaying my side..??

didn't realise you were so OLD!!!! enjoy!! Will

Hey Andrew, really good stuff!! Website looks like it is going to be a cracker... I am with the lighter colours option though. This dark grey colour hides a lot of highlighting and text on my side. But all thumbs up whatever happens..!!! Will

If the pipe sticking up in your pic comes from the fuel filter then it goes to the rear of the fuel rail as you have photographed. There seems to be a pipe on it already with a loose jubilee clamp? One point, how many pipes are there coming from the fuel tank? 2 or 3? Some tanks have a breather system and have a round breather cannister up where the fuel filter sits .. just make sure you are not mistaking this cannister for a fuel filter. That other thing may be some sort of temp sensing device that controls vacuum to the distributor advance/retard but pic is not clear so not entirely sure. Is there a hose going to the distributor? The rest of your hoses in the pic all seem to be connected properly.

The fuel line from the fuel filter goes to the rear of the fuel rail nearest the firewall. The front of the fuel rail goes from the regulator to the tank return. Do you have all sorts of vacuum hoses coming off the inlet manifold? A pic of your engine would let me know what system you have and I can get the right info to you.. Will

Plenty of front-bum boys out there Jazz.... :gay:

My, you are a rugged fairy !!! :bowdown:

One way which helps.. fill master cylinder and then loosten off the pipe from the cylinder and sharply jab the pedal till fluid shows at the exit pipe, then leave it to drip for a short while. Tighten the pipe and try as normal with someone pumping while you open and close the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder. I use compressed air to force fluid through the system but needs some bits made to work and all mine are hidden somewhere in my chaotic container so can't photograph them for you..

Sounds like an ignition problem, could be as simple as a faulty spark plug or lead. Is the miss a regular or irreglar one? I'm not familiar with this motor.. does it have individual coils or a standard system?