mops

I have been daily driving a MS2 managed m20 turbo stroker for several years now. Once i got all the wiring and setup right, its working well. These days I would recommend MS3, this is however more expensve, but you get sequential fuel/spark, which you want. Sequential will not make more peak power, but it will be better in terms of drivability and fuel economy (slightly)

cool. I might be keen for the e30 325i driveshaft. do you konw whether it is from auto or manual ? (they are different lenghts) also maybe compression tester and other misc bits. I'll text you 2morrow.

Heya. I have two sets of e30 14" bottlecaps available. First set, tyres are warrantable but not much tread left... maybe 30% These are on the left on the pic. Tyres are 185's, not sure what brand I can check. Looking for $100 for this set. Second set. Fronts are 195's, rear's are 205's. These are on the right of the photo. Very good thread on them. I would say front are 70%, while rears have traveled for only few fualtanks and are essentially as-new. These are quality Yokohama tyres. Looking for $200 for the set. Most centre caps missing (to be confirmed) Pickup west auckland.

Heya. I think you are on trademe also, I have asked you about the diff. What ratio is it ?

is it for a 2 or 4 door ?

ah, never mind then, I didnt realized you are in chc. I'm in akl, would be too much hassle to do it over a short notice.

pm me if other offers wont go through. I can get cash anytime as long as the bank is open. where are you located ?

is the dash (first pic) off 4 or 6 cylinder e30 ?

would you have two front matching e30 carpets in decent condition ?

I would make a solid one from alloy or whatever i had lying around

How much to post to AKL ? Are you sure all gauges/lights work ok ?

What do you mean "Motometer Brand" ? are there any other ones ? I'm just after stock factory one. nothing fancy...

I'm after e30 instrument cluster, 6 cylinder, metric (in km, not miles). Do you have any and in what mileage ?

I'm after e30 6 cylinder instrument cluster (in km, not miles). I can pickup.

what exactly is wrong with the motor ? what milage ? anything else wrong with it (besides usual scratches, wear/tear, etc) otherwise does it have wof/reg ? anything else it would need to put back on the road ? And yes, where is the car located right now ?

Howdy. Long story short, I have been fixing rust and body on my e30 for couple of months with intention of spraying it myself. I got the body very straight, but i wont be able to spray it myself as my landlord wants his house back ASAP. Therefore I'm looking for a autobody/paint shop in Auckland area that will take 100% fixed, primed car and just do the base/clear coat on it. Thanks in advance.

m20 or m50 ? where are you located ? is the damagge repairable or has it been deemed a "writeoff due to structural damage" (as opposed to uneconomical to repair?) Does it drive ? wof, rego ?

would you know how hard is to adapt m20 260 to m30 ? sometimes it's just a case of making adapter plate, but sometimes tranny input shaft needs to be extended which is normally a pita.

Yip, I'd be keen for one too.

I have couple of questions before I sign up. 1. so it it confirmed that will will work with 2 degrees of vodaphone network ? (wouldn't vodaphone have better coverage) ? 2. Exactly what functions does it have ? you call it and it will text you it's gps location. How does the remote shutdown work and what's the door trigger and siren for ? 3. my biggest concern is that whether you can hide it anywhere ? My suspicion is that if you eg hide it under the dash (or other place resembling Faraday's cage to some degree), gps and phone network reception might be poorer there, does it have any provision for external antenna or something of that sorts ? 4. does it have any support to interface with other car alarm ? eg. I'd ideally would like a text/call if the alarm has been set off or something of that sorts

what sort of fuel economy does this thing get ?

I can provide some experience with MS and wiring. My setup is very similar to yours. But would be good to have the car here in akl...

you are pretty much limited by fuel. can you affor 116 octane racign gas ? then most likely you will be ok up to 14 psi. Basically with stock internals you will run into detonation very soon - maybe 8 maybe 10 psi... it depends on fuel quality greatly. running on 'on the edge' of detonation is not smart, one hot day, one bad batch of fuel, and you can melt the engine if you are not paying attention. long story short, and i'm kinda oversimplifying here a liittle bit, however any engine will handle alot with proper tuning - key being avoiding detonation. detonation, even with no boost will melt the engine quickly. Hard to say exactly how long but generally Head gasket is like a safety 'deviece' which will blow first and hopefully you will realize it soon as it happens. If you are a smart a$$ and use metal hg clamped with fancy studs then HG will hold and either head will crack of piston will melt. and retarding ignition also has it's limits... any less than about 10 degrees might keep you from detonating, but you will be making actually less power than wil less boost/more timing - exact figure depends alot on the engine parameters. there are several things you can do about it though. -use high octane fulel, but realistically over certain detonation limit you will need more and more octane to keep from detonation -use water/methanol injection - it also has it's limits. -run dual fuel setup or some sort (kinda extension of abouve) -keep intake temp and exhaust backpressure to minimum. -probably there are more ways. IMHO on NZ crap fuel you will be lucky with 8 psi, and that's provided you have fairly large turbo hot side. that includes full custom tune on standalone ems. maybe 10 on a good cold day with fantastic fuel. and then you go outside of main urban areas and best you can get is some 95 octane and that will detonate unless you reduce boost.

yea, as camB suggested it's kinda of waste IMHO for turbo engine. ITB's are there for -quick response -lovely induction sound (coupled with a fat cam) -top end power Turbo introduces inherently slow throttle response by far and you also loose the fantastic sound, and with turbo you make power with boost, so n/a restrictions are significantly reduced and instead the main restriction is exhaust backpressure - the rest doesnt really matter, unless you go something really silly, like 1" charge pipe...

i've swear it's the only time i typed and posted this post but it's i't pretty universal tbh... ppl start projects, but expensive parts up front, they they hit couple of roadblocks and they say ahf*** it whatever... for me #1 objective it to finish. and the rest has to fit within some general guidelines...