mops

mmm i see what you mean. I also sometimes get frustrated with mine.... engine seems to be holding up ok... knock on wood. I replaced steering rack twice, and steering pump once. Still something is leaking out of PS system. Gearbox is a PITA when cold, turbo/manifold/downpipe is really difficult to remove, so is the oil filter. But as I think of it now... it's reliable. and with new wheels/tires it sticks nicely, all though next time i'll go with even fatter rear tire. sometimes I feel like my 25yo e30 is falling apart faster than I can mend it together. And EFI tuning... I'm nevery happy with it always trying to squeeze out last bit of performance or last bit of fuel economy, and then when i get too far i have to go back and fix drivability, haha Anyways, I got all the parts for water/meth injection now just install it all in and wire it up (this has been partially done) and I'll be able to call it finished I also see what you mean about the financial side of things... the reality is that cars and horsepower is expensive. If you are a young student with 'student' income I totally see you can be over-stretching yourself financially. During my project I received criticism from other people that I'm a cheap-a$$ trying to save a buck or two everywhere... but when you are on limited budget that's what you have to do otherwise you will be in situation like you are describing. I'm a bit older and reasonable salary but i allow myself only a small portion to be spent on this - and I treat it as wasted money... well instead of blowing it on beer and girls i build this car. Dont treat it as wasted time or money. You probably learned alot and you can plan and execute similar project in the future with greater efficiency. And regarding issues with your car... i think these can be traced and addressed if you just give it some patience

It's a bit of a long story, and as often the case in this sort of situation, each side has different variation of the story.

yea, cam with more duration will lower dynamic compression. but it will make low end/midrange worse and you will HAVE to retune or orherwise hack EFI for it. otherwise it will be even worse.

any details what was replaced ? bearings, synchros (all or just some) ?

Can anybody recommend BMW friendly dyno around auckland ? I need to do couple of power pulls but also some steady state tuning.

I have recieved some great service from http://www.enginespecialties.co.nz/ they have very modern/advanced machine shop Also I'd like to mention that I have received rather poor service from Hytech engines in manukau, I would not recommend them to anyone.

what's the offset of the wheels ? what tyres are these ? how much thread left ?

mmm.... Now i'm after both front control arms..... price ?

Hi. I'm after ZF style Power Steering pump, that's leak free, let me know, cheers.

actually there's more swept volume, so compression will be higher. crank is 84mm instead of 75mm stock 325i, which puts piston 4.5mm (9mm/2) higher. however m20b20 rods=eta rod=130mm, which is 5mm shorter than oem 325i, so all in all piston will be 0.5mm lower then stock. But, the displacement volume till be higher. and that ends up at ~9.1:1 for oem 8.7 compression piston or 10.2 if you have oem high compression (9.7) pistons.

are windows switches backlit version ? were they working well ? -also i'm after that leather around the shift leaver -maybe the steering wheel ? -maybe instrument cluster -maybe rear part of centre console kinda dependent how much $$$ you want.

or you can get a torsen centre... this thing is the shizzle...

re the e30 , do you have whoe car or just those parts as listed ? if whole car then are you parting it out ?

can you describe condition better ? as in rego on hold, but is it certed ? if it has to be certed do you think there qill be some issues ? what tranny ? otherwise condition of the body and interior ?

but I understand to drive a LDH car you need special license ? ot pass some test of some certification thing, right ?

yes, i think you can import as classic, not sure whether it's 20 or 25 years old, and what other criteria have to be met. But apparently it's a pita if it's RHD. i guess you could buy normal e30 rolling shell and swap out dash and other stuffs, a bit of work but i suppose can be done... once you find out the details post back here, i'm interested myself. cheers.

AFAIK these are not registrable in NZ due to the year of manufacture + LHD. only good to strip it and make it a track car.

i'm sure cold starts are tunable.... 10k is a great price for that car. it probably cost that much to build mine (not counting the car to start with). and believe me that power is making that little e30 move

Could I come by and have a look on them sometime ?

size of wheels, dia, width, offset ? size of tires? brand of tires ? you say rear are worn, but front ones in what condition ? that 'crubbage' on the wheel, is it fixable ? (by a shop ?) are the spacers hub centric ? and bolt on ?

would be great cheers. 51mm would be awesome but i dont think there are any other differences.

Hello. I know it's a weird request, but i decided to give it a shot anyways. I'm doing big brake conversion for my e30 and could use a strut and trailing arms so I can mock everything up on bench without removing these from my e30 (and that way disabling the car). Would return it afterwards in same condition. Would need these for a week or two. So I'm after e30 front strut, with brake disc but caliper is not required. same for the rear trailing arm... I doubt if anybody will have these lying around 'spare' but maybe just... I can pay in beers or money or something else (name your price). Must be in auckland area or not too far away, I can pickup. Cheers, Mops.

still no reply....

PM sent.

how much seats ? what sort of wheels are these, size, how's rubber, how much ?