Eagle

This was on trademe for 2.5k not long ago in Christchuch iirc. Guessing he's added on his expenses to the price with some profit. Paint\panel are poor (it had a major respray patch failure on the left rear quarter if memory serves). All this guy has done is take pictures in the dark to hid the fact along with a weak ass description rather present it how it is.

I think it goes far beyond the 3 series. BMW are a premium brand for the most part and that premium has been dwindling for awhile now.

All in working order pulled from a M52 engined car. Good M50 SMF conversion etc but would recommend a taller release bearing (E21 323i) as clutch bite point was quite low. M20 228mm single mass flywheel, weight is approx 7.1kg Luk clutch kit with good life, done approx 10,000km according to PO. M20 starter motor Have bolts and spacer also $350?

E32\E34 introduced most of those features. Another one he didn't mention (assuming E36's had it also) was the adjustable intermittent wiper speed interval

17x8 front and 17x9 rear Condition as per photos. Its really only one of the fronts that looks a bit sad. All tyres are have at least 5mm tread of them. ATR sports for rear and some Chinese specials on the front. $400

PM'd

^

Looks tough. He's probably gearing up for the revolt against the rich.

When i say early it was like March or April of '91 so one of the first, probably the same reason it had LSD unlike most E36's

Andy is correct, early E34 M50's were the same. Even some early E39 523i manuals used it. I had a early NZ new 325i coupe with factory ZF box, sports suspension, sport seats and an LSD. Probably one of the rarest spec'd E36's of the planet.

Yeah i bought them to fit but finding a decent E34 these days is getting too hard, so gone E39 route instead of waiting forever. Someone is coming to look at them in the weekend who wants a staggered set so hopefully they can be finally put to use.

Good condition. 25mm front and 18mm rear bar Big difference over stock (23mm Front 15mm Rear) most E34's have. Will fit all cars without modification expect the M50 w\automatic trans which i believe may have to have the transmission brace removed $400

No longer needed Forged staggered alloys 17x8 ET20 17x9 ET22 Wheel covers,caps and paint are original and still quite tidy. Curbing machined and lips polished. Have replaced BMW center logos and cover bolts(stainless hex type) with new items $2000

Wet grip is where good rubber shines and is where you want\need it especially if you can't actually correct a slide. Traction control cannot defy the laws of physics either as some fools who fit 'whatever is the cheapest' have found out. Mid range wise using Hyper website - Ive used Achilles Atr Sport 2, Toyo Proxy C1 and Pirelli Dragon Sport, all which would be suitable for your requirements and have proven credentials.

OEM pads are Jurid but ATE, Textar, Mintex, Pagid etc will do the job just the same for normal use, assuming you can handle the brake dust. Plenty of higher performance pad options but unless you are tracking the car they are probably not worth it.

Original plan always an E34 manual but i never saw any good candidates. I found this E39 528i factory manual and thought id turn my existing wannabe 530i motorsport into eventually an improved version of the actual one. Benefits of this are fairly obvious - M54B30 power. I can retain much of the work and $ spent ive done on my existing car and don't have to do it all again on another unknown car. I like my car colour and don't want to own another silver BMW especially one which has a grey interior (528i has both). Buying the extra motorsport bits shouldn't be hard or expensive given these cars are plentiful and worth jack so it should help keep costs down. The swap seems fairly straight forward. The coding side of it appears relatively easy with my MS43 DME. May be some small pedal issues as they appear to have changed things around in Sept '97. Possibly a little wiring and\or a few plug changes to get the drive by wire working etc with pedals for cruise control etc. Will deal with the issues when i come to them as using early M52 manual setup is a little different to the M54 auto and not properly documented as far as ive looked. Plan is sort of a 3 stage deal given i don't want the car off the road for long periods at a time. 1. Remove 528i gearbox etc and my 530i engine and transmission to fix up some small oil leaks. Fit M-suspension bigger swaybars whilst its out. Fit manual box with all new shifter bushings with E60 shorter shifter and ZHP knob. Replace all driveline and clutch components (apparently the PO has a new clutch with single mass flywheel installed not long ago so i shouldn't have to worry about that part). 2. Sort some upgraded springs and dampeners. Will look into rebuilding my KW coilovers i have here with Koni adjustable inserts but will look at other options if too expensive with the added cert. 3. Black motorsport interior to replace my beige one as most sports seats seem to be black on these. Then lastly put back in what BMW accountants took out - the LSD experience. I will start dismantling the 528i tomorrow to find out what parts i need and will commence work once they arrive. In the mean time im happy enough driving an old 5 series manual again.

I know from experience the cost of having to import every part gets adds up real quick.

Spend the savings on a proper diff

That Maserati interior hasn't aged well at all. Nice car to look at no way id want to own and run one.

Yeah try a few places. I just got a verbal quote thru AA classic ca for my S600 - $~170 p.a agreed value which is very cheap compared to others. Still need to find out if it covers a few things like glass though.

I see where people are coming from and i wasn't playing on buying it myself but viewing is still the only way to truly condemn it Seats seems to be one of those things that an average person neglects for reason i can only speculate on

+1 Lithium but wouldn't use the aerosol versions

You looked the owner up on facebook?

All that stuff is still available and you probably would fit new components your current one worn. Center tie rod, pitman arm and steering box would be the only things possibly worth keeping on the front. Those early front strut bearing assemblies are another thing to keep as they are expensive or even NLA for OEM and expensive for Meyle aftermarket ones. Probably easier just keep the whole strut assembly with the bearing etc. Wiper linkage\motor maybe worth keeping also if you can be bothered removing it.

Sent it to Youshop USA. $20NZD max and probably even less for economy postage.