Eagle

Haha yeah its not far off at all, would make a good twin. Style 42's aren't common sight to see on any BMW i think. Got the ACS\Eibach 27mm front and 18mm rear swaybars in which has fattened it out much nicer than stock but it does now high light the need for springs and dampeners even more.

Got the front bumper sorted with black msport trims to match but i do need to sort a rear one to re-enable rear PDC. Also fitted clear celis tail lights and fender indicators to match the replacement front Hella xenons, i did prefer the orange but it was easier to go with clears. Thought about doing shadowline door trim also but decided i like the chrome which compliments the wheels and grille, and its a bastard now so may as well continue with it. Going into Tuesday to do most of the manual driveline conversion with a hoist (thanks to Kerry at Mosens). After that i'll finally get around to lowering it once i decide on struts and sport seats when i find a good set.

From what ive seen Mercedes use a different plastic blend, generally appear to run cooler thermostats, better layouts and likely have less plastic components in the cooling system. 90's era cars are were they started to make a name for themselves. Id imagine modern BMW's are likely even worse with more\lesser quality plastics, turbos, smaller\packed engine bays etc. I run Goodrain blades on my E39, they are very cheap and perform excellent at all speeds.

Nice. Its like the my fathers range rover, same engine and colour

I gave my damaged msport bumper away and it will be used to fix someone elses one. Got a whole bunch of ACS suspension and bodywork parts which included a PFL bumper with ACS addon lip as shown below. I quite like the look but it needs to painted to match my car. Msport bumpers look nice but they just too fragile for the roads here with all the extra under carriage, too low and too weak for me to bother with esp when im going to lower it in the near future.

Sounds like a worn tensioner pulley. Long screw driver placed on tensioner housing with ear attached should confirm. EDIT: Or idler pulley, forgot you have a TU

Depends on your budget really, the M20B25 would be cheapest option by far as you can keep everything. Going to the M5X engines is going cost a bit coming from a B20 M20 auto, you'd probably want to manual convert it, upgrade brakes, suspension etc. M54 is fine if you got knowledge and\or money to do it, otherwise M52 is probably the next best option, it's not quite the power of the M54 but it's cheaper, easier to work on and more reliable.

At least you know where not to go next. The place i go always comments on BMW being tidy, i tell him its not really its just you guys are used to seeing crap. They always agree.

Sound like typical WOF testing places, most are on the same level as your average tyre shop. Used fix so many cars for failing with brake bias, service and handbrake. They seem equate their set brake roller test % with set variables to actual real world performance. IIRC smoke test is rev it up 2-3k for 30s, they probably had it idling for ages and didn't even do that the first time. How much of the SLS system did you remove? Sounds like they only noticed due to new parts?

Nice. Half the reason of the thread was to document to give others an idea in regards to RHD and older version. Much of the RHD parts are hard to find or NLA. What setup are you planning on using?. The later 528i (preferable the TU) would be ideal unless you score a wrecked M54B30 manual car. An early 523i would work also as they have the ZF box and slightly shorter 3.15 diff which maybe a benefit

Thought i had a small issue with the older clutch pedals but turns out i could of easily re-used my earlier one instead of buying a new one. The new style clutch master cylinders have a clutch switch mounted on the side of them making the stop obsolete. RealOEM isnt very helpful when it comes to this sort of thing. Brake pedal is a different story as it completely different for the facelift DBW setups. Couldn't find a manual RHD brake pedal but the auto pedal is identical to the manual in regards to shaft shape and position, so just needs the pedal reduced. Do it right and its basically factory in regards to fit and distances, it's just has the foot wielded on the opposite side to the manual version. Completed Tidied up transmission and replaced all shifter bushings, clutch components and rear seals. New hanger bearing and centering sleeve. Looks like CV has been done at some point which i was hoping it would have. Correct ratio 2.93 diff. 2500rpm @ 100kph Turned out my SMF flywheel conversion done by the previous owner was an M20 228mm flywheel conversion (****ing cheap ****) but i managed to score an old (but still plenty of life) DMF from an awesome guy named Kayne Barrie. Waiting on my new 240mm Luk clutch kit then should be good to proceed.

Done a few idler arms in E34 and E32's and other cars with boxes so not uncommon. May someone did an incorrect installation on the previous stuff.

Not sure what BMW spec but it sounds reasonable. Key on and off a few times may have brought it up to 50. Did you check the pressure when being revved, like 2-3k. Did you disconnect the fpr via vacuum hose in engine bay and check that.

Probably just worth waiting. I don't think they are that rare and can't image converting one would be cheap at all, and that's not including coding side of things. Im sure Ray @HELLBM would have an idea though.

Standard BMW knob in perfect condition. Looks genuine but maybe aftermarket, quality piece either way. Weights ~170g so im guessing its part no 25111434495 $30 shipped

Looks like one of those 300zx\350z with aftermarket wide body kits.

Man it hurts my eyes looking at those latest interiors. That instrument cluster looks like BMW's attempt to one up their rivals, go back to the 1980's and it would fit right in.

Ok. I usually give the MAF a clean for good measure when doing work like this. Checking the fuel system is easy enough on these with the schrader although i'll bet the fuel filter is very old so probably check that with the regulator at the same time before the pressure.

Sound like you have not scanned it yet or reset adaptions? Cleaned the MAF sensor?

Right. Can't say i know much about what 4 cylinder engines are good to turbo, but it seems an odd choice of an engine to use unless you really wanted the E90 chassis.

You serious about buying that GTR?

Welcome. Everyone here knows that infamous engine im afraid, be sure keep some money aside just in case.

Thats nothing, id take whatever is in the best condition as usual. The maroon looks tidy expect for the stone chips everywhere but has probably had most things replaced unlike a 150,000 example.

Was it that manual converted one on trademe?

Factory manuals, probably the sport models are the ones worth spending on as long as they aren't too far gone. Mechanical wise they still cheap to fix in my book compared an overhaul on the newer models, but yeah wouldn't want to pay anyone to do that due to labor costs. I do wonder what happens to that white Naghi motors M5 that was bought by someone here recently.