Neal

I wouldn’t be so sure with that change. I do run Shell oil ll01 fe 0w-30 I’m my turbo m3 but I don’t think I’d use a thin oil on a higher reving NA M engine. Perhaps check this part number if you can’t get TWS. https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-210886-bmw-m-twinpower-synthetic-oil-10w-60-e46-m3-e39-m5-e60-m5-e9x-m3/

I didn’t. I did price a nz map update for a uk car but it wasn’t cost effective a few years back. They have been great on other M parts though.

Did the first part of the VO coding as you suggested via Bimmer Utility so it's available via the cluster and it's FDL coded the entries in the Camera , Kombi and NTB2 . Just need to sort the OEM FSC to enable the function. Will email schmiedmann around the process for retrofit FCS codes and order 66502444948

True , but just found references to 66502444948 for kafas2 here SLI thread

Just trying to work out if it’s a universal world wide FSC verse Europe.

I need to double check , but I think this is it. edit , link below not for Kafas2 camera , more searching to do https://www.schmiedmann.com/en/product/e436819-new

Just re-read your post , smart code FLD for cluster and NBT 👍

Cheers , I have the KAFAS2 camera so should read the speed signs . Only thing with adding 8th to Fa is I’m not 100% sure how it will code my retrofitted ID6. If it VOs the NBT unit is suspect it will kill the id6 FSCs . Trying to do it in a way that an OEM FSC is used for SLI so it stays put after dealer servicing . Haven’t quite got my head around it or effect on idrive. If the process just does fld on ntb then good. Have watched this a couple times ,

I don’t need it 😀 , but one of those, why doesn’t that work anymore problems to solve. It’s a bit like Speed Limit Information on the dash. I don’t have it so have become target fixated to code it.

No , thought it might have been I needed to turn off carplay to get apps working via Bluetooth, usb , tried both , but no change. I dont have a connected drive subscription so not sure if that is a factor , It was saying in the App notes that bmw apps needed to be enabled , but doesn’t seem to make a difference. When I click the i button on how connect in the app I just get a blank screen

There was also a heap of room to mount crossovers if you go passive. This was my e46 coupe door. I just used double sided tap and hot glue. The crossovers I used where massive, largest car audio ones I've seen so heaps of depth in there

Just some ideas for you Speakers There a number of STL files available for e46 midbass adapters so you may find something already done that you can download and print SLT files for e46 , I came across heaps when looking for F30 adaptors. You have a couple of choices mounting wise . IB where the speaker uses the Door as a baffle , door needs a hole cut if you up for that. It will extend the low end from the 6.5s . Will get them into mid sub bass frequencies BMW door card mount, works out to be a semi-sealed enclosure , there might be around 5 - 6 litres of air space which is a bit small for a 6.5 , can give tighter upper mid bass , but will roll off the bass quicker from around 80 hz. If going active , I would recommend running a bass blocker capacitor just to keep the tweeter safe from amp pops or tuning mistakes, You'll appreciate they are easy to blow with 20 watts or more with low frequencies. Something like one of these each side in series with the positive terminal 22 uf capacitor , will drop -6db / octave from 1800 hz . High even to add protection , but low enough not to interfere with the HU crossover. ( I'm guessing somewhere between 3000 - 4000 hz for tweeter ) AMP / TA , I do like your option of running active stage for a couple of reasons. The headunit may have a better crossover in it's preamp that the Alpine passive covers. Having TA on front stage more important than rear from a drivers seat perspective You may end up fading the image to have a front bias so rear speakers will only need a watt or two of power , HU will be fine for that. Battery gauge , there is a wire size calculator in the spreadsheet below. But amp looks to be 8 gauge . Short distance so you won't need 6. Jaycar sells by the meter For the front speakers however , the tweeter and midbass distances may end up being quite close in distance length , In which case there maybe little gain in fine tuning front image TA between mids and tweeters , so passive becomes effective as you only need offset the drives side with some extra delay. Head unit EQ & TA 13 bands is quite useful , Can get you closer to target curves of your choice. TA can be done in two ways , Via distance , ( Good start ) or using Impulse ( more accurate ) When done it helps level front image above bonnet. I can help you measure this , Can bring Mic and laptop so can use REW to measure both the Car response to the speakers and impulse tune TA. Very good spreadsheet Here The spreadsheet can be used to load into REW app and then it's quite straight forward to tune the 13 bands to it. On the target curves something like a Harman / JBL target curve would be a good place to start . Has a bass rise and a treble fall. Sounds more Hifi ish to me when engine / road noise is competing with bass frequencies. Door connectors Caution as door wiring airbag goes via them. The usual disconnect battery before working around them goes without saying. Also stops the airbag light on dash coming on and needed a reset via usual BMW programing tools. Straight forward to take out, easy to take out kick pannels Connector parts by pulling connect tab The audio / speaker connector clips out on one side of the connector , was able to leave it inside door wire garter on my install rather than chopping it off Other side doesn't clip out , But the plastic is soft , used stanley knife to cut through the speaker section of the connector, Again didn't chop it With running speaker wire through the connectors / door wiring garter / door I used curtain wire as a pilot and taped the speaker wire to it Pictures

Looks good Olaf , On your speaker cabling e46 wiring has a good gauge of cable on mid bass. 1.5mm2 cable from memory so good enough to carry a 200 -300 rms into 4 ohms. Otherwise the door connector audio section clips out on side and you can carefully the cut part of the connector other side . The rest of the connector is keyed so airbag / mirror / power window part of the wiring doesn’t move. Then it’s each to route aftermarket cable through. It can be done in a way where you can return it back to factory later if needed. Sing out if you need any pics.

At least it’s not e46 coupe rubber door seal prices. But that one’s a WTF !

Very cool car , congratulations. Rumours are the 2010s LCIs have slightly better performance. I guess ZCP is like the competition model in the next gen M3s ( USA name for them )

Kinda doing a “what if” complex scenario in my head. Have a couple vehicles that I don’t really use occupying a garage slot. Also have yet to own a v8. These e31s have always been on my “wow” that’s cool list. Kinda a “living list “ car. Sounding like a great to drive , relatively powerful cruiser.

What are these like to drive ? Still love the lines on these.

Know of a couple of F10 M5 owners. Both have had other M cars including e39 M5 1st owner has had zero issues the car has only had servicing. No issues at all. 2nd owner has some issues and needed engine out work. Repair work was in the high $20k region. 2nd guy has kept the F10 and post rebuild no further issues. But he said in hindsight he should have brought a warranty as problem showed within first year of ownership. But both owners really enjoy the car and it’s amazing power and torque.One says almost too much if you turn the “safeties” off. One of the conversations was also on a power built M5 with close to 900hp . Not sure if that owner is on here.

The comps and regular f80s will also dyno at 460+ standard so in typical BMW Turbod Ms is understated. Also a great platform that can be setup with coding quite easily. Comp will take most of the CS coding for Steering , DCT , Diff , Shocks and traction control. Or GTS for everything other than shocks. If more engine performance is wanted then coding to 500 hp plus straight forward. More performance oriented then crank hub , turbos and downpipes will get 600- 650hp plus with the ability to run back to stock when needed from an iPhone. The Alpina is more of an understated gentleman’s car. Suspect the interior will be a bit nicer. Eitherway both a great choice.

On the car stereo front the amplifier manufacturer Mobridge did a remote session into my amp. I’d asked if it was possible to code the Mobridge amp ( and dsp products ) to use four of the Idrive 6 B&W menu items.The Mobridge Amp has four dsp profiles that can be used , but on BMW F series B&O and Harman Kardon only uses two. The diagnostic on the amp is great. I just needed to press each of the Idrive sound profile options and the engineer was able to see what the Idrive sends to trigger the DSP settings. Within a few working days Mobridge was able to code the extra sound profiles and send back new Amplifier software to test. So I now have four DSP slots which are controlled by the BMW idrive 6 B&W menus. So I’ve done the following Profile 1 , Drivers seat position with appropriate time alignment running an Audio Frog / Harman house curve. Would call this an audiophile style tune with the front audio stage stilling above the bonnet with good width. ( I’m not and audiophile though , have been curved of that level of obsession 😀 ) Profile 2 , All seat tune , time alignment so bass is still forward of front passengers , centred at ear hight between driver and passenger front set. Profile 3 , like Profile 1 , but more bass between 15 -80 hz Profile 4 , at this stage , speakers only level matched, no time alignment or eq. Used as reference for evolution of system. But will probably use it for further map development of Profile 1 BMW B&W menu for context.

If these are still the idrive 6 units then the dyi isn’t easy , but can be done via esys and some other software tools. Using esys takes a bit of learning and the process involves coding the region code on the unit. But be warned that people learning to use esys have bricked there car ecus as it’s easy to hit default ecus. There is a product called feature installer which can do various reprogramming of the infotainment system including region change and adding NZ maps etc. I used a guy on trade me after doing a coding mistake and coded my unit back to factory order. Just needed a laptop ,enet cable and downloaded the software and a software code is given. Not sure if Ronald is on here ? But this is his trade me store. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/accessories/listing/4793841724

We had a standard 1M on a dyno day about a decade back with BMW CC Wgtn. Better engine option than S65. Made more power and torque than a e90 m3. Was a good 100hp higher than my e46 m3. The broucherware advertising only a few kilowatts more. These cars have my respect. Hope you enjoy ownership 😀

They are a $&@$ nightmare to deal with. Had a set of tyres held up for two weeks waiting on documentation. Countless calls to try and get things moving. Turns out they need a copy of the purchase docs so sent those through, took another three days to process. Tyres arrived and found the documents they were after where actually attached to the tyres.

Appreciate the effort you’ve gone to rehost the platform.

Still no mileage with latest update but this appeared on my Apple watch