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Showing results for tags 'e36'.
Found 146 results
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Hi there, I have an E36 M3 track project and I'm looking for: X brace left and right brake cooling ducts for front bumper Also needing strut braces fr & rear, square setup 17x8 or 17x8.5s ET around 40 used or new semi slicks R888, NT01, DZ03G etc probably 225/45/17 or whatever fits on those rims and clears coilover struts etc and a pile of other stuff but will post as I work through it. Many thanks for any offers, suggestions and advice. PM me or email hagen@nztcinternational.com
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Hi Guys, I was at a pick a part and i scored some nifty vinyl and cloth seats out of a Porsche 928! They need a bit of love in the form of restitching but ill get that done later. Theyre surprisingly very similar to the size of an E30 seat, which is great, and they look friggin' awesome too, and being manual operated seats i dont need to worry about wiring. But for now id really appreciate some help on getting them in. I realise that the seat belt is attached to the existing seat in my '85 sedan E30. I was wondering if i could grab the seat belt rail out of a coupe and install them? That'll take care of the seat belt issue. And then i can get some plates fabbed up for the seat rails which shouldnt be too difficult. So on to the back seats. For obvious reasons i didnt get the 928 rear seats. BUT, i was thinking of going E36 leather rear seat, which comes with the middle arm rest (im hoping it lines up with the ski pass in the E30. I plan to knock out the metal and put hinges and a lock on it so i can open and close it from inside the cabin). I have seen the E36 leather rear seats being retrofitted into an E30 on a forum, but for the life of me i cant find it and trust me i have searched. I want to know how this can be achieved, or at least be pointed in the right direction. I know it is possible, but i need help on how. I think the 928 seats once recovered in black will look super mega awesome balls with a e36 black leather rear seat. Ill try get some photos up ASAP. But seriously, any help would be much appreciated! So in advance, thanks guys!
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Hi all, Have an excellent condition 1997 MSport 328iT for sale. All the details are on Trademe - http://www.trademe.co.nz/838278744 $9700 ono Cheers.
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Hey guys Just looking for a 318i e36 diff in the auckland area if there is any out there.
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Hello bimmersport, I intend to buy some angel eyes for my '95 325i coupe from ebay, and I'm wondering if anyone has experience with any? Any recommendations would be gratefully accepted. -grurgle
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Sadly selling my immaculate car as it isn't getting the use it deserves- too busy with business commitments. It's factory standard, done 200kms, factory NZ New Manual, full black leather interior, all the info/photos are on the TradeMe link below: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=812511291 Asking $4200 ONO- Phone me on 027 355 1245 if interested. Thanks
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Looking for an m52b28 with a manual 5 speed zf gearbox and driveshaft. may also be looking for an m52tub28 with loom and ecu to convert into an e36! any help you be greatly appreciated thanks
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Friend of mine has a 328i that is begging for a third pedal. We need all the parts to make up a full conversion kit. Located in Christchurch and willing to have items shipped.
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looking to replace standard intake on my 318is e36 with a custom itb setup i can weld up flanges and all fab work but i just know ill get stuck on the sensers and air flow meter any help would be much apreciated cheers guys
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Hey im pretty new to the whole adjustable suspension scene. I am looking at buying some bc gold adjustable suspension for my 328i e36, iv read a heap of forums about them but cant find anything about using them in a daily driven car. I know they will be a whole lot more stiff and will handle a lot better, but im just wanting to know if anyone knows how they are in a daily driver with the right setup, so if anyone can help it would be awesome.
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Hi all, Just a couple of pics before and after I had my E36 MSport Leather seats refurbed - took 2 days to do at $230 per seat (ex GST) and had the armrest done too , the difference is amazing I think you'll agree
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Hi all, hoping someone may be able to give me a guide here. My E36 Convertible has been having some interior work done and is currently at a leather repair place, they have had the roof down most of the day to fix the interior and now when trying to put the roof back up the following occurs: The roof cover raises as usual to its usual position then at this point the convertible roof usually starts to raise (while keeping the switch pressed) but there is no sound like the motor running, just nothing happens. When I press the roof button down the cover goes down to about 90% of its usual position, so it sits proud about 6 inches from the rear head rest then the windows start to raise as normal. If its any help to anyone the boot will not open at this point but if I apply a little pressure to the cover I can hear what sounds like central locking kicking in and the boot will then open. I have no idea what is up, I have checked fuse #7 which I have read may be a fuse for the roof but its fine. Anyone got any ideas or can recommend anyone in Auckland who is good around this problem Thanks in advance - Al
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Over working on my car and not really in a position to keep taking it to pieces which is a real shame. It has only recently become apparent to me how much I just need to have a cheap run about instead of using my project car as a means to get from A to B so hence why I am seriously but reluctantly going to try to sell this. I have spent some hours on it so I wouldn't be happy with just giving it away so if I don't get the right price I will just hold on to it and probably park it up somewhere until I can be bothered to take the project back on and get it really nice, that may be some time though. I thought I might have a couple of decent pictures of it lying around but only this at the moment: The body work is pretty good although there are a few scratches here and there, the paint on the roof and the rear doors back has faded. It has a new engine with 132,xxx Kms on it. Radiator is new Engine oil recently done Brake rotors have been resurfaced Power steering fluid Steering bushing replaced New Brake fluid New gear box oil converted to manual (Getrag 240) Crackless dash in great condition. Battery retro fit relocated to boot 2 sets of wheels, tires. Lowered rear suspension and camber (untastefully low, not done by me. Not sure about the front) Sub, amp, 6x9's and head unit I will try and get some better pictures and some more information if anyone on here is actually interested. I thought I would start on bimmersport as I have the old engine and some spare parts I wouldn't mind getting rid of with the car if it does sell. So an enthusiast might be after the whole lot who knows. Anyway cheers.
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OK guys, after speaking with Neil who had done this conversion, I tracked down the appropriate parts and started at it. Now this is for people who want to keep the factory standard look, but want bluetooth or ipod integration into their E36s. A lot of cars look fine with an aftermarket headunit, especially one which colour matches the standard red colour, however some people like to keep things looking nice and stock - you can't really find many head units with the right colour and also the matte finish that the factory centre console has (most aftermarket units have a polished look with polished buttons etc which make it stand out. Also as a theft deterrent to keep things looking standard inside. Now here is my factory radio FM transmitter sucks because of quality and also having to plug my phone in, and having to control tracks from the phone etc. Also takes up the 12v cig lighter which I need for ... uhh something else. Now you need the following Anycar Link AL-1080C You can choose a BMW 10pin option if you use the CD43 radio which we'll get to. It comes with a harness which intercepts the factory radio loom, so you plug one end of the harness into the factory loom, then plug the other end into the CD43. The harness then has two outputs which splice out - one to plug into the CD changer port in the back of the CD43 and the other to plug into the Anycar Link box above. Harness: Then you need to source a CD43 head unit. This is a single CD business radio from later model bmws. this has a 10 pin plug at the rear, so you should check your existing radio to make sure you have a 10 pin output. this is a CD43. Don't bother with the Ebay radios, they run for 250USD+ .. there are plenty at local bmw wreckers .. the only catch is that you need to have the code (any time battery runs flat or you disconnect the radio, you will need the code to unlock it again). recently BMW dealerships in nz have stopped giving out codes, you can try some overseas sites etc, or last resort buy one of the expensive ebay units with the code included. I lucked out and asked the wreckers to check the CD43s they had in stock until they found one with a code written on it. a lot of people write the code onto the units!!! so check various wreckers and ask them to check if any of the ones they have also have a code written on it by hand. Without the code, you can't use the unit. once you have those. its very easy. Pull out the existing headunit by opening the little flaps on each side, and using a 2mm hex/allen key. sometimes it slides out easy, sometimes you have to wrestle with it for a while. took me a while to shimmy it out (with a bit of swearing). but there are no hidden clips or anything, just those two hex screws. then unplug the big black plug on the back, you have to pull the clip surround UP as shown on the plug itself. this was a big pain in the a.. thought it would break, but after a while it came loose. as soon as you pull the clip up, the plug comes out. then use the harness and intercept the loom, and then plug the other end of the harness into the new CD43. same install as before .. push the clip down and the plug fits in. then plug the cd changer from the harness into the back of the radio into the cd changer port just below the main plug. turn your ignition on, input the code for the radio and then you should see the anycar link box power up. there is a lot of room in the back there to stow the anycar link box. I stowed it to the right, and the harness extra bits to the left. The anycar link also adds hands free bluetooth calling, you accept a call with the + and decline or hand up with the -. I was wondering where to put the microphone, most people run it up the b pillar to sit up near the visor, but it was a bit of a hassle, so instead I pulled out the centre vent and ran the wire through there. Here you can see the vent (two screws from the bottom and a clip to the top right, so pull at the bottom left). then there is a bit of tucking and twisting to slide the new unit back in (the wires and everything usually get in the way) so its a bit of a stow and try slide in. here is the finished product you can control tracks using the radio, even switch between playlists etc. just select the CD option.
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My brothers just got his learners so I'm attempting to fix up my old E36 320i so he can have it for his first car. The main issue is the Japanese auto box. It's always had a fairly brutal first to second shift when cold but after some hard yards being driven (spiritedly) daily over the Rimutakas and back as my commuter, it now refuses to change from first to second unless I button off the gas completely. I think it's probably beyond a simple oil change now but I rang up Jeff Gray to see what the oil's worth regardless...Retail is about $90/L and best price through my mates garage is between $50-$70p/L. Given the above prices, it looks cheaper to find a second box with the torque converter still on it, and the liquid gold still in it... Is there an aftermarket alternative to Dexron III that will do the job properly these days?
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Front seats out of a E36, don't know which model. Tidy but could do with a good clean. $90 Pick up preferred 20 minutes from Manukau off ramp, but on lucky day I may be able to deliver in Auckland for some beer.
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Selling to make room for new engine, offering it up to bimmersport guys first before tardme. M50b25tu vanos engine with 22x,xxx km on it. Doesn't seem to use water or oil (have only done 1000kms if that, since I have owned it/the car). For $700 You will get: · E36 Engine · Starter motor · Alternator · Power steering pump, lines and e36 steering rack · Viscous fan and coupler · Intake with all components (apart from airbox) · Engine loom with 413 ecu-non EWS (auto) · Exhaust manifold · Auto transmission (may have loom, computer and shifter) · Drive shaft · Used Manual E36 flywheel, pressure plate, two clutch plates and manual starter motor. Have a few other parts for sale too like radiator and aftermarket exhaust. Would like the buyer to pick up (hence the cheap price), I will pull it out for you. All located in Rotorua. Niroy
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Hey team, I've had my M3 about a month, and the plan is to gradually restore it to factory spec and condition (yeah, I know I know... ). The only obvious aftermarket parts are the exhaust and the suspension, and I'm looking to swap out the exhaust for an OEM one. I don't really know anything about it, but it's louder than standard and I'm not a fan. I understand the M3 exhaust system essentially has two sections (headers to cat, and cat to tip), and I'm not sure if my car has upgraded both or not. I'd be happy to provide details of the system I've got but am not too sure what to look for. Where do I look for stamps/indications of brand/part no. etc? Is it just the bore diameter that matters? Basically I'm looking for a direct swap with another E36 M3 owner who wants something louder with a bit more flow (potentially?). If anyone's interested, I'd be keen to park up side by side somewhere over the summer and do a transplant. James
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I hadn't driven my E36 for a month and the battery died which resulted in what seems to be a whole system reset. My key fob would no longer activate my central locking or alarm. I've been trying to reprogram it using every procedure I've come across on the net but nothing has worked so far. Here a few things I've tried: Have been leaving the battery disconnected so I open the boot and reconnect. The car's hazard lights will start flashing with no siren (haven't heard the siren ever since the battery died anyway). Then I tried a number of procedures: Open the boot, open the drivers door, get in and close door, put key in and turn to 'on' (dashboard lights up) five times quickly, open drivers door and close again (the alarm light on the centre console flashes differently, I haven't been able to tell how), pull key out (have leaved in as well) and using my three button key I hold the unlock while pressing the lock button three times then let go and see the remote light slowly flash, get out of the car and either close the drivers door or leave it open and go close the boot and then the drivers door if I need to. Test the remotes and never work. The siren doesn't chirp after the five key on-offs. Same thing when I try more simple procedures without the boot open or much door opening and closing. I feel like I'm close with the way the alarm central console light changes its flashes; it varies between a consistent on-off and two or three quick on-ons before one longer off. I think there was only one time I started the procedure and the car didn't have its hazards flashing and the alarm light on. Does anyone know any other procedures or if something might be wrong with the car?
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www.euroitalianparts.com Euro-Italian Car Parts NZ Ltd stock a large range of BMW and Fiat Service parts, supplying both the wholesale and retail trade throughout New Zealand. We import only quality OEM (Original Equipment Manufacture) parts from Europe and the USA, and all the parts we sell are guaranteed. For over 30 years, the company now known as "Euro Italian Car Parts NZ Ltd" has served the greater Auckland and NZ region with an impressive selection of original and high quality auto supplies that are made to last. Specialists in BMW parts, Euro Italian has supplied parts from older E21, E28, E30 to E46 BMWs...and beyond as well as Fiat/Alfa Spares from older 850s, 125s, 127s, Alfa 33s etc. to modern ranges, and also VW/Audi and Mercedes Benz. We also specialise in E30 BMW parts. Newly-appointed general manager, Rodney Lingham, has had over 30 years experience with classic, European and British cars, and is bringing a fresh, new look to Euro Italian's decades of excellence! As a result of his experience, under his tutelage, Euro Italian has re-branded and seeks to help both the home-enthusiast and also wholesalers and other trade customers with their queries! We now ship Nationwide across New Zealand , from Northland to Southland, and have a range of local, hard-to-find and International suppliers. Mention Bimmersport when you visit Euro-Italian and receive a 15% discount on in-store stock lines. Opening Hours 8.00 am to 5.00 pm Monday to Friday By appointment (Saturday) Ph: +64 9 444 9817 After hours / WhatsApp: +64 27 446 6547 Email: parts@euroitalian.co.nz Website: www.euroitalianparts.com Address 15 C Saturn Place (off Paul Matthews Rd) North Harbour Albany Auckland See our video, below: For all your BMW parts needs.mp4
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