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Like the title says, anyone know where I can get a hold of a Mediabridge for my e39? I will resort to ebay if I have to, but would rather buy from inside NZ if you get what I mean.

This will suit any E39 with build date 3/99 onwards as the air-bag is dual-stage. Comes complete with multi function controls for : - Telephone - Radio/CD controls - Cruise control Possible to mix and match this wheel with a pre 3/99 e39 or e39 that doesn't have cruise control and or Telephone. Maybe fits other models, you would need to do some research. The leather and stitching is in good condition. $280

I have an extra set of LED bulbs to replace the old incandescent bulbs in an e39 sedan interior and boot area. $60 pickup in AKL or $65 including postage. A very easy 30min DIY job.

Took my car into valet on my way overseas and asked for a deluxe car wash. They did an incredibly thorough job, including washing the insides of my stock amp which is now dead. sh*t. I've been wanting to upgrade anyway, so figure now's a handy time. Here's my design, keen on feedback: First MiniDSP 2x4 taking balanced inputs from Dynavin FL/RL and doing a 2 way active crossover for fronts, full range for rear (passive crossovers) and one left for the sub. Second MiniDSP 2x4 doing the same but for the Right channels. Both sub L/R get summed together at the amp. Then I've got a Soundstream TN4.900D doing my fronts and a PN4.520D doing the rears. Both nice and small amps. Currently have a PN1.650D monoblock doing my sub and love it. At this stage I've still got the stock speakers, but am buying 4 Stereo Integrity TM65 6.5" drivers. If one either side up front sounds good enough I'll see if the other two fit in the roofspace at the back. Don't think I've seen any wiring diagram mention these speaker locations (most of what I've found is for the Sedan). Parts I don't have figured out yet are the passive crossovers at this stage... so may ditch the rear set all together. Would like some suggestions on some tweeters for the front too, and possible some mids, although I don't want to go too crazy. No big fibreglassing projects for me though please. Once was enough!

Hi guys, I sold my old Avus E39 last year but got the itch again a couple of months ago. Bought a low KM but but rough looking and running Silverstone one with huge potential. Got Vanos done by Graeme at BM Workshop and although that solved one problem (extremely well, he's a magician) it presented another one being a more guttural noise from within. Long story short, it looks like I can either do a repair with the risk of throwing a rod out the side of the block at any point or replace the motor. What I'd like to do is a find another S62 to drop in there. Problem is of course, I'm on a tight budget.... Does anyone of any S62s out there for a good price? Can do a good deal on jewellery in return (wife's a jeweller). How much would your mrs love you?? Not only are you selling an engine but you're getting her jewellery. Amazing opportunity! Cheers guys, Lachie

Hi Guys, This is my first post on these forums so hopefully i dont sound too stupid but here goes... So i have absolutely fallen in love with the gunmetal Style 65 rims off the E39's. However, i have a E46 with Style 68's currently and cannot for the life of me find replicas to fit my car. I have seen some photos of E46's showing off the Style 65's but none i can buy. Would anyone know how i can source some/get them made/provide ways to fit the style 65's overcoming the offset problem without looking ridiculous? Iv attached a photo off of google, and the forum it came off has zero information as well (NOTE: Attached is obviously not my car, just making sure im being legit here) ANY help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

Few bits and pieces I don't need... All brand (or near) new: Pair of Michelin Pilot Sport tyres 265/40/R18 - $350 each - SOLD 8 brand new NGK Iridium BKR6EIX spark plugs (suit E39 V8s) - $75 for four or $140 for the lot 12 near-new NGK Laser Platinum 3741 Spark Plug - $25 a pack (of 4) or $80 if you take the lot Pair of E39 foglight delete brake/airbox ducts like the one in the pic below but unpainted black plastic - $150 - SOLD Brand new Mahle oil filter kit for E39 540i (might fit others) - $10 Set of 4 genuine aluminium BMW emblems - $40 Also got a pair of E31 headlights - untested so not sure if they work or need repairs. $150 ea to Bimmersporters - SOLD

Hi everyone So I'm selling my much loved 1999 BMW E39 as I've bought a new car and no longer need this one. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=725699663 You can see the car on this trademe link, as you can tell from the pictures this car is very well taken care of and I spent a lot of time and money making sure it would be in prime condition for its new owner. This car is a german built manual which my father bought brand new in South Africa and imported into New Zealand a few months after buying. I bought it off him a little over two years ago and it has been a great car to our family. I'm asking for $10,500 or near offer in my trademe link but I am open to any reasonable offers and you are more than welcome to arrange to come see the car and take it for a drive. The windscreen seal on the car has deteriorated and does need replacing but I'll be happy to have this all sorted for the new owner.

Hey guys, I'm wanting to put my E39 Bimmer on its stomach, if anyone has any ideas or anything that I could do to it to make it look mint, pleaded do share, cheers!

Thinking of moving on my beautiful 540i to explore other opportunities (an E31!!). Many of you know the car. Those that do will know how much I've spent on the car and how fussy I am. It's in immaculate condition as you can see from the pics. Here's a quick run down of what I've done but feel free to look at my project log and showroom pics for more info: 184,000kms (good for many, many more!) Runs like a dream and idles perfectly from cold and it's genuinely quick (you're welcome to cold start test) Paint is immaculate Genuine xenon facelift headlights Genuine AC Schnitzer wing mirrors ACS replica roof spoiler CF front splitters Refurbished black leather interior and m-sport steering wheel De-cat and custom free flow exhaust (vid below for sound!) Most of the trim inside an out has been refurbished or replaced All new door and windscreen seals within the last 12 months Complete double vanos procedure completed (by Ray's team at HellBM) - this was done as preventative maintenance and was a major job All valve cover and upper timing case gaskets and seals replaced at the same time Has had recent smoke test and no vac leaks Transmission has had full service less than 3,000kms ago Oil change when I stripped and powder coated valve covers less than 1,000kms ago AFE dry air filter Emissions (secondary) air pump removed so no cold start noise/issues Brake calipers removed, cleaned and repainted s/s brake lines and race brake fluid Brand new OEM rotors all round and EBC redstuff pads less then 2,000kms ago Pictured with fully refurbished staggered (8.5" front 9.5" rear) 18" BBS RSII wheels - however may sell with staggered 18" deep dish BBS RX 502s Has performance tune and Dinan tuned trans s/w (which makes the auto transmission a LOT more enjoyable) It has a small oil leak from the rear crankcase seal. I've ordered the parts to repair this and can do it prior to sale or knock a bit off sale price and give the buyer the parts to repair themselves. The car looks and drives brilliantly. I'm not wholly committed to selling yet as I've invested a lot of time and money into the car but will do it if the offer is righ. Not looking to get what it owes me (because it would be absurdly priced if I did) but think it is worth at least $12K (it's insured for $14K). If you drive it you will not be disappointed and, I know everyone says this, but I think you'll be hard pressed to find a better one for that price, even with lower kms. I also have a supercharger kit for the engine that I've not yet installed. Not that keen to sell but may part with it for the right money. Make me an offer for either or both. Exhaust:

I've got a 1999 BMW 528i manual which I'm looking at getting some work done to. I've had an what I've been calling a phantom overheating issue which has been caused by air getting into the cooling system and building up behind the sensor, fooling it into thinking the car is overheating. I'm taking it to BM workshop to get a full scan and find out how the air is getting in and from what I've read two of the most likely places are through a busted gasket or through cracks in a cylinder head. I had been planning over the last few months to get this sorted and then sell my car to get something newer but given that any repairs could be expensive enough to negate any profit I'd receive from selling it, I'm thinking I'll look into putting a new engine in it. My preferred choice (dependent entirely on costs of course) would be to source the twin turbo N54 engine (from the 335i) and put this in. I know this will incur all sorts of complications in making things matchup etc and I'll probably need a new clutch too. My question to anyone who might have an idea is, would this engine fit in the car? I'm asking because my car has the rack and piñon steering set-up which was not used in the v8 e39s due to the engines being too big to fit this steering system. From what I've found online the n54 is a similar size to the m52 (what my car has) but it'll also have extra bulk from the turbos and associated parts. Any other ideas or recommendations are appreciated. ps: If I am going through with an engine swap I'd like to get a decent power hike and the aforementioned e39 era v8s present too many complications. My other reason apart from wanting a newer car is wanting something faster and I love the idea of a "sleeper" 528i.

This is E39 specific, but it MAY work for the E38 and E53 too - not sure, probably best to find out, before you try it. I made this from info collected off the net, and use it quite a bit, so thought I'd tidy it up and sort it out to hopefully make it of use to others. Because of the high number of problems with cooling systems, and the HUGELY buffered gauge on the E39, I thought I'd make a "How to" to read the KTMP (Coolant Temp) your E39. NEVER trust the gauge - there are a lot of E39's out there with faulty thermostats and are consuming copious amounts of fuel because of running too cold. Also, on those with "map-control" electronic controlled thermostats, they can run too hot if the thermostat heater is burnt out (It logs a fault code in the DME fault memory, but does NOT bring up any warning to the driver). The E39 temp gauge seems to read "normal" (12 o'clock) from about 75C up to at least 115C. High OBC is a text display under your instruments Low OBC is a picture of a car under your instruments Test 7 displays the KTMP figure, in degrees Celcius. This is the coolant temperature that the ECU is measuring in the engine. I've not confirmed it, but some people report change in the KTMP display depending on key position - Position 2 (with the engine running or not) appears to be the side of the coolant sensor used for the ECU temperture readings, and position 1 appears to be the temperature the gauge uses - The sensor is called a "Dual Temperature sender" because it has the two readings. If one side is faulty, this should show it up. To access the "High OBC Secret Menu" and KTMP (Coolant temp) add up last 5 numbers of your vin (mine are 59439, so 5+9+4+3+9 =30) turn ignition on 1 or higher (or start engine) Hold right side button until test appears( 5 seconds?), repeatedly press right button until test 19 is shown, then repeatedly press left button until it says Lock: 30 (or whatever your VIN added up to) press right button press right button until test 07 shows press left button and it will show KTMP - coolant temp. press left will cycle through KTMP, RPM and something else. It will stay there until you turn the car right off (key position 0). To access the "Low OBC Secret Menu" and KTMP (Coolant temp) The 'low' OBC, with your one button is a bit harder: There are three actions you can use with the button: short press, long press (1 second+ish) Wait turn ignition on 1 or higher (or start engine) Press and hold the button until "test 1" appears (5 seconds?) and immediately release the button. quickly start "short presses" on the button, with a short pause between keep up the short presses until you get to "test 19" (if you go past, you can keep going up to 21 and back to 0...) While "test 19" is displayed, "wait" - it will enter test 19 after a short wait (If you accidently drop into another test, Easiest way is to start again - key off and back on) Display should show "Lock ON/OFF", where on and off will alternate between one and the other. short press while it says "Lock OFF" and as soon as it display changes to "test 0", start the short presses again, until you get to "test 7" When "test 7" is displayed, "wait" to enter the test, and it will then display your KTMP. It will stay there until you turn the car right off (key position 0). Thermostat ratings: M52 = 92C, Mechanical thermostat M52TU and M54 = Map Control, Mechanical rating 97C (generally run at 92C - 98C at cruise, may drop down to high 80's briefly under load) M62 and M62TU = Map Control, Mechanical rating 108C (generally run at 92C? - 110C at cruise, may drop down to high 80's briefly under load) S62 = 79C, Mechanical thermostat Diesels = I think 88C, Mechanical Thermostat The Mechanical Thermostats should generally stay above the Thermostat rated temperature, unless going down long gradients using no throttle (lot's of airflow, but no fuel burned) - though that will usually only drop slightly and come backup quickly once fuel is burned in the engine. They may go higher, if the cooling capacity is exceeded - the viscous fan, or auxilliary fan should pull the temps down before "the China Syndrome" The Map Control ones will function like the mechanical thermostats above, except the ECU controls a small heater built into the thermostat. It can heat the thermostat up, forcing it to open more and pull engine temps down during heavy loads. The engine temp can vary a lot, but should never cool down much, for very long. Most of the time you should be in the ranges I stated above. Do be aware, with the Map Control ones: The small heater can burn out, and the ECU loses it's temperature control mechanism - it will them run at the High temperature that is the Thermostats mechanical rating, and should be replaced, ASAP. It will NOT bring up a warning of any kind, except when scanning the DME (ECU) for codes. Diesels may have an EGR thermostat too, which can cause warmup issues. If you have any cooling system issues - use the KTMP reading to see what's really happening - because of the bufferd gauge, it doesn't tell you what's going on, and if it does move to the red, it may already be too late! High OBC cars (only) will give a loss of coolant warning. Low do not. If the coolant suddenly escapes, you can cook the engine without the gauge even moving - the sensors only work properly when they're IN coolant.

Hey everyone, Just thought I'd 'show off' my E39 after she's cleaned up and had photos taken. I must say the photos sure make it look cleaner than it actually is haha This is of course after the truck hitting me has now been fixed, me crashing into my garage has now been fixed (DOH!), and the crack on the back bumper I bought it with is fixed. + some yellow fog lights just to be different and a black grill and some tinted windows and there she is.

I'm going to assume I've bought the wrong adapter, as the internet seems to be telling me. But am i missing something, or is there any way to get this AUX to fit the car? (Pictures below) I'm going to assume there isn't any way to make it fit so what would be the best thing to do to get an auxiliary input into my E39. My CD changer doesn't work so i'm happy to go for a cd changer input if someone can suggest one. Cheers, Sam

Hi Everyone, So have previously had an E34 535iS and have been rocking a Mazda 6 MPS but needed to downgrade a bit for financial reasons so ended up with the following: 2002 BMW 525i Motorsport Jap Import Topazblau Metallic Suede Interior HiFi System Glass Sunroof 126KMS 18" Style 42's - Any recommendations where to get the bumpers done, both have areas needing some plastic welding and repainting. Cheers Bimmersporters!