Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Guest FrantiC

e30 m20 turbo stroker project

Recommended Posts

Guest FrantiC

Hmmm Could be cam timing is out by a tooth. That and the 5.7* crank advance could be enough to stop it starting I think...

Oh well more tomorrow morning when I check it properly.

I bought the wrong compression tester too, It's one you poke into the spark plug hole. doesn't fit Lol. Meh. I will see how this timing stuff goes and then go from there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC

LOL.

Starting again. I know why it wouldn't start, Bit late now after pulling the head though..

Anyways, time for good news. Time for a "Phase 2" - MORE RELIABLE, MORE POWER.

Scrap this build, I'm changing a few things around and upgrading.. Soooo...

On the new To-Do list:

0.120" MLS Headgasket. - Lower compression from 9.5:1 to something more boost friendly like 8.8 I think it is, No more headgasket blowing either.

Head skimmed, Checked over. - Make sure it hasn't warped or anything, ARP's should have held it down right , But you never know. Skimmed for the MLS to seal right.

Clean the block surface up, Probably how Luke did his m50 for his MLS HG.

Wastegate provision welded on the underside of the manifold. - This will be used as a vent to atmosphere dump, Plus bigger hole = better boost control. Don't trust the current setup. Will use for WOF etc though.

DYNO TUNE IT. As I have gathered, This step will be the most crucial to have a safe long lasting build this time round.

More updates to come in the future, As for now this projects at a stand still til I sort out exactly how I am doing this.

:P

Edited by FrantiC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good plan - get the thumbs up from me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A bit less "Frantic" this time maybe?? :P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC

Yep - Original plan was to get the head O-ringed, but the shop had never done an alloy head before and everyone suggested doing the block instead of the head, so I just cheaped out and decided not to do it. Probably one corner I shouldn't have cut.

Anyways, For the starting issue I wired COIL A and COIL B outputs from the ECU to coil drivers the wrong way around.. Heh. Gutted finding that one after pulling the head off! So 1 and 6 would have been firing when 2 and 5 should have been and vise versa. Would have done that when I pulled the ECU out before I figured the crank sensor was broken.

Ahh well. Learn from simple mistakes lol, knew it would have been something simple. Doh!

When it is back, it will be much better executed second time around!

Edited by FrantiC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Simon*

Ah I was hoping to see the Blue devil blatting round the Bay roads any day John! Nevermind, good on you for your patience - do it once, do it right and then enjoy driving the thing :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC

Ah I was hoping to see the Blue devil blatting round the Bay roads any day John! Nevermind, good on you for your patience - do it once, do it right and then enjoy driving the thing :)

Yeah no doubt I will be when I do get it up and going again, You will see it eventually lol ^_^

$411NZD shipped for a brand brand new COMETIC 0.120" MLS, From VAC Motorsports in the U.S. Suppose the fact it is re-usable is a good thing!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lol funny aye John how you have this deadline and it almost doubles :rolleyes: I thought mine would have been tuned by Christmas last year lol dreams are free!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah no doubt I will be when I do get it up and going again, You will see it eventually lol ^_^

$411NZD shipped for a brand brand new COMETIC 0.120" MLS, From VAC Motorsports in the U.S. Suppose the fact it is re-usable is a good thing!

How come you are looking at a MLS head gasket if you are O-ringing the head/block??

The point of O-ringing is to retain the fire rings in a stock style HG using the wire that sits in the O-ring groove.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC

How come you are looking at a MLS head gasket if you are O-ringing the head/block??

The point of O-ringing is to retain the fire rings in a stock style HG using the wire that sits in the O-ring groove.

No no no, Originally I was going to O-ring the head. But the shop here had never done an alloy head before and I was told I am better of doing the block .So I scraped the idea because my block wasn't coming out of the car. Thats what I meant when i said "a corner I shouldn't have cut".

I think an MLS is a better option anyhow, As this way I can lower my compression from 9.5:1 to more boost friendly numbers..

So there is no O-ringing going on, I am getting the head skimmed though because that is what is recommended before you use an MLS so it seals right.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So there is no O-ringing going on, I am getting the head skimmed though because that is what is recommended before you use an MLS so it seals right.

Also note John that it is a requirment to have the head and block skimmed to a certain fine grade to suit the MLS how ever I did not do this with mine, only skimmed the head and cleaned the block facing off but have had no problems. Just thought id throw that out there incase you were interested in really really doing it the correct way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC

Yup i know, Head has to be 50RA or less. And yeah I am getting that emry tape stuff you got to clean the block surface.

Did you copper spray yours Luke? Where did ya get the copper spray from if you did?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yup i know, Head has to be 50RA or less. And yeah I am getting that emry tape stuff you got to clean the block surface.

Did you copper spray yours Luke? Where did ya get the copper spray from if you did?

Yea thats the one bro, Nah I didnt end up doing that aye i just followed factory fitting requirements which it states on the cometic gasket instructions. I did however use grey threebond on the timing cover area cause it is prone to leaking there which mine did.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC

Little update:

Have the head back now, All is good and it's been skimmed again to a really smooth mirror finish.

I've started in the block, cleaning the surface up.. MLS should be here end of next week hopefully.

Got a couple of screamer pipes of trademe, just so I can use the pipe the flange (was actually cheaper to buy the screamer pipe than a another couple of 38mm wastegate flanges lol). So 1 will be welded to the manifold and one will actually be the screamer pipe. Apparently you can mig weld these stainless manifolds so I don't have to find somewhere to get it tigg'd..

Then just wait for the MLS and in the mean time find somewhere to book some dyno time!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC

Lil update..

Heads been checked and skimmed to a mirror flat finish.

I have cleaned up the block surface how Luke did his on his m50 beast when he installed an MLS, With Emery tape. Though I used 120grit instead of 80. So both block and head should be ready to have the MLS fitted.

VAC Motorsports are a bunch of morons. Anyone else here dealt with them? 1st day I order, Get an e-mail for shipping quote. Choose the cheaper $51USD USPS option over the $141USD UPS..

UPS being 3-5 days i think,

USPS 6-10 days.

So I chose the USPS one, obviously I would rather wait a few extra days an save a good $140 odd NZD.

Noticed no money going out monday or by tuesday so I e-mailed asking whats the go, Aparently my card declined what they tried charging me. Which was with the $141USD option. Thank god I emptied my bank account out before they tried that!

Then yesterday, Tried the SAME thing. Finally getting it through I would ONLY buy it if they actually charged the quoted $51USD for the USPS shipping.

So FINALLY today they asked if the total (coming to $415ish, instead of like $560) was ok to charge to my card.. Well COME ON! 1 week later and it hasn't even been paid for yet.. VAC, you guys Suck!

I should have stuck to Top End Performance. If anyones after high performance bmw parts, arps, forged pistons, they are EXCELLENT with service and shipping time. I bought my ARP headstuds from them. Just found they did the cometic MLS headgaskets too. Tad too late ! :P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Haha whoa John! Finally got it sorted today huh, so frustrating with the time barrier also aye makes things 10x more frustrating and takes way longer. I cant remember who i dealt with for my stuff but i had similar problems with my headstuds tho.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC

Soo update time..

Coils mounted to firewall, no longer valve cover. Have tidied up wiring, added plugs for easier removal and unplugging if need be.

Re-sealed the holes on the throttlebody (crank case vent hole and ICV hole) by using silicone and massive threaded bolts thread themselves into the holes, then grinding them flat. Looks better than having plugs and tape over them. Also will seal much better.

Tidied up alot of wiring, mounted ECU again and coil igniters are in cabin now, with the ECU not in the engine bay anymore.

Have received my COMETIC MLS 0.120" headgasket this morning. Will spend the day getting that in and making sure it doesn't leak!

External wastegate provision welded to the manifold now, better boost control this way and also lets me run a screamer too :ph34r:

New timing belt and gaskets again, even though last belt had probably not even 20km on it wouldn't trust it... Lol. Paranoia.

So everything on the "re-do" list is done.. Except dyno tune which I will figure out next week. Still no camera which sucks, Thread fails with no pics :P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

mean! sounds like your close to being ready to go for a fang around the block(after tune of course). So.... video of this event possible? i wana hear the spool! :ph34r:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC

Another good news Bad news update....

MLS install was succesful, No leaks w00t.

Go it all assembled again this morning, Fired up right away. Ran excellently..

Went for a drive, hit boost alright in 1st gear, then in second gear as soon as boost would come on, the car would cut out and start bucking.. I couldn't figure it out. I drove the car to a mates place, Got pulled over and given a $800 fine for no WOF and driving with a pink sticker FFS!

Then after looking around found I had the + battery terminal loose.. DOH!. Tightened it up, went for a boost and as soon as it hit boost the motor bogs down and start hesaring knocking and rattling coming form the motor. I let it idle and all you could hear was multiple knocks coming from the upper end of the motor.

Let it cool for a bit, pulled the valve cover off and WTF every rocker arm on the intake side had unclipped itself. I was Pissed off as you would imagine, just had the head assembled last week after getting skimmed. Towed it to the shop the head was skimmed and showed them the rockers pushed to the side, and the clips all liying in the head. They reckon no damage would have happened to the valves as they wuld have stayed mainly closed... But they failed to put the metal tab that holds the rockers in place on the m20 head, stops them rotating as the intake side one had rotated, forcing the clips off. Apparently my fault it would have come out, even though they shouldnt just fall out should they??? So they gave me a new tab and told me go home and sort it. Wankers!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They have to fix it mate, if they made the mistake. Bugger to hear about it though, can't wait to see a vid of your sexy beast

Jealous lots

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest FrantiC

Yeah F it all. Too much effort towing it there, having an argument that I must have lost it by having the head upside down somewere.

They even had an m20 head right there assembled with that metal tab in there and it doesn't exactly just fall out. I am thinking most likely an error on their part as they removed the rockers to keep the valves close to skim. it.. Would have missed it when they assembled it I reckon. I checked my mums car that we picked it up in and the plastic wrap the head was wrapped in when i picked it up, and was in til I put it back on the motor and nothing to be seen...

They said it was easy to sort ways. Just need to rotate the rocker shaft back around and keep turning over the motor to move the rockers into position and put the clips back in.

Should be all good after that. Finger crossed! Video tomorrow!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hope nothing else silly like that happens, my last m20 snapped a rocker. :o

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yea you have had so many stupid little mishaps John so I hope your luck turns from here on out :B

Best have a vid soon! Heck you were meant to have one before me lol, dont go getn any more fines just for us though lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...