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Jamez

E30S50

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cant believe it was head bolts hahahahahahahaha

what are you doing at home today you should be with me at work hahahahahha its been busy well kinda/not really

looks good with the new arms, i need to put some photos up of what i have done to mine(when my internet is not capped)

i would love to see this in person man i only live down to road so one day your off work and so am you should show me

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Its at Hampton Downs tho. Get the day off on the 19th of November and i'll take you for a drive round the track, I think there is still one slot for resi in the leave diary.

edit

Also mitch stop posting on other peoples accounts

i would love to see this in person man i only live down to road so one day your off work and so am you should show me

Edited by Jamez

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img

Well if it was leaking combustion gases into the coolant then I can see why it would over heat. But you said you tested the coolant and it was fine.

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Yeah it was a weird one because it would only happen on the track. It was fine on the dyno and when idling, but as soon as you took it round the track with sustained load I guess thats when the head started to move round and create the problem.

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Its at Hampton Downs tho. Get the day off on the 19th of November and i'll take you for a drive round the track, I think there is still one slot for resi in the leave diary.

hahahahaha hell yes ive put in for leave man hope i get it just waiting now

whats happening on the 19th is it just you messing around on the trake with other car or is it a bmw meet? my dad is keen to come to some meets and track days

cant wait man,

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Front lip added and my first try at making a splitter, Not sure how long the splitter will last but it looks good. :)

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Whats it made out of? And have you bolted it on?

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made of plywood, used bolts with big washers either side. The splitter cost $10 to make so if it does break its not the end of the world

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Completely different car, is a dream to drive now and in some places its getting a whole extra gear. Have done the following since last going on the track....

Revalved Rear shocks

Added rear sway bar

Rebuilt Diff

Added spacers to add front camber

Added E36 M3 evo Control arms

Fixed oil leaks

Fixed intake leaks

Spaced out rear swing to stop it slagging

Added front splitter

Added front lip

Fixed the play in shifter

Lowered the front

Also put the wets on just for the time being until the slicks are ready.

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Edited by Jamez

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Took it out for a few cruizy/testing laps this evening, am sitting round the 1:17 mark. Also found the powersteering fluid leaking onto the front left which would explain a bit of understeer on the right handers :P. Will probably remove the pump and just run the rack by itself.

On a more worrying note I noticed it is sometimes crunching into 3rd on the downchange, first time I thought maybe it was me not putting my foot down but I was making sure every time after and it was still doing it.

Anyone know the speed difference between running slicks vs wets in the dry? Both are dunlop V8 tires and Im guessing its about 2 seconds difference in pace?

Edited by Jamez

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Doubleclutchheeltoe those downshifts. Every down shift. Ever. Doesn't take to long to get the knack of it really

*regarding the crunch of course. car looks nice too :D

Edited by Incary

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Time for an update, car was going really well, I was getting well into the 1:14's at Hampton Downs. Link to Video

Pic from the day :)

Posted Image

Then it was my Dads turn at the last taccoc meet to see what he could do, started the Day in the 1:16's then towards the end he was doing 1:18's (we had to swap the standard brake pads in due to the race pads wearing out)

He kept on spinning it tho....

Posted Image

Then on the final lap of the second race he decided to play with the concrete wall on turn 1 and did this;

Posted Image

He later admitted he thought he may of been trying a bit to hard :rolleyes:

Have since pulled it apart and the damage could have been worse, only infront of the front right strut tower has been ruined.

While pulling it apart it was found that the;

  • Left engine mount was loose
  • Gearbox had ripped the left mount of the support out of the chassis
  • Center driveshaft rubber was flogged
  • Left side of the rear subframe was missing one bolt and other were loose
  • Rear bushes had heaaaaaps of play (which might be the main cause of it always wanting to spin)
Posted Image

At the moment its getting the panel and paint done. Has also been put on a chassis machine and is still straight :)

Plan is to

  • Put the engine back in
  • Replace all the rear bushes
  • Re-valve front shocks (still have standard road valving which probably doesn't match the rears nicely which have race valving)
  • Remount the gearbox so it has 2 mounts and not 1.
  • Re-postion front header tank to passenger side and further back for better weight distribution
  • Mount fiberglass front bonnet with pins (less 10kg weight)
  • Sort the engine mount.
  • Replace front right slick with the spare as its munted
  • Replace drive shaft hanger
  • Replace front pads with race pads

Should be a bit quicker once back together B)

Edited by Jamez

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Fixed and almost back together, they even managed to bend the right front guard back into shape. Not to sure on the silver engine bay, but it sure looks clean.

post-3670-1294696252.jpg

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Edited by Jamez

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