What'd you do to your BMW today?

[M3AN 4016]

1 hour ago, treone said:

Replaced the 'upgraded' JVC 4" speakers with some Rockford Fosgate Power Series 6X9's speakers in the rear deck of the M3. Huge improvement ?. 

Interesting, the e36?

I've got some JVC 4" one-ways in the rear of mine (coupe though) and should probably upgrade to 6x9 3-ways...

[M3AN 4016]

Replaced the brake light switch in the M3 today, that's the second (OE) replacement I've had to install in the last 5 years, this one better last.

Also received a few boxes... and this is only about half of it, I had to split the shipments to circumnavigate customs.

Remember - import tax and duty law changes on 1 October, order your overseas stuff now.

 

[treone 644]

Yup, E36 M3 Saloon @M3AN

My sound system has been a big let down since owning.

It has a JVC BT/USB headunit and I replaced the front 5.25" front speakers with Rockford Punch components, but only installed the mid-bass speaker. This gave a slight improvement but overall the sound was just full of 'highs' and was very 'tinny'.

So in search of more 'bottom-end' I went with the 6X9 in the rear upgrade. Settled on the RF Punch P1692 speakers and used E36 6X9 adaptors, (bought off trademe and was surprised they are still available), which made the install easy and reversible whilst maintaining the factory look. It won't win any 'sound-offs' but as mentioned - am happy with the result so far with a more fuller sound (but still need some more bass!)

I also have a Rockford mono amp and 12" sub to install, but will be left with no boot space. So tossing up whether to go with a 4/5 channel amp set-up to amp all the speakers (will replace the door speakers and prob go slim sub) to give the sound a bit more lift.

I'm no audio-head but I do like to enjoy my 'mp3 sounds' when I'm in the mood. And you may have guessed I'm a bit if a Rockford Fosgate fan ?

 

[325_driver 422]

Replaced that horrible windshield molding

All that was left was the spine, merged to the windshield

And polished those headlights like glass

[Jacko 2151]

Another day, another n52 rocker cover. My e91 330 this time, its actually a pretty cruisy job when everythings not pre-fuct.

Check out #4 plug tube.. Well lubricated (no misfire..)

[325_driver 422]

Hello oil!

CCV on e90 round two

Never buy your CCV off Amazon lol not worth the risk

Mine lasted a grand total of 500km

Luckily this time only took under 1.5 hours to get off knowing all the tricks and angles for those CCV Pipes

 

 

[Jacko 2151]

Yeah, its not worth saving $20 for something that takes hours and many creative words to replace  

[325_driver 422]

@Jacko I wish I checked the manufacturer. I usually buy from fcp or rm euro. But I had already done 3 other orders and I was getting a bit sick of the postage punishment.

We need a bimmersport coordinated group buy calendar so people can piggy back everyone's orders lol

And work around splitting orders to avoid duties charges

[325_driver 422]

Time to remove intake manifold

1.5 hours

Time to click CCV sump return "quick connect" half a day and counting

There is nothing "quick connect" about this sorry excuse of a design. Why can't people be happy with a God damn hose clamp

[325_driver 422]

After 5 hours of swearing to all sorts of causes the Sump CCV not clicked in,

Put it all back together like that, car starts fine no codes

But have a rag round it to monitor for oil leaks

Lol stay posted

** update

40km drive, oil doesn't appear to be oozing out where the return line meets the sump, but it's definitely not connected.

Any hints on how to get it back on? Should i use the quick disconnect tool in reverse, i.e. insert it to spread the clips, and then push it down as far as i can, and then pull the tool out?

Hopefully someone has some advice here, because i wouldn't like to leave it as it is

Edited September 1, 2019 by 325_driver

[M3AN 4016]

One rotor just about fell off, the other one not so much... still stuck WTF?!?

Won't even pull off... ideas? And yes, I've tried the gentle persuasion of a steel mallet... and no, those wheel bolts aren't holding it on. I've sprayed penetrating lube (into the lug holes) to leak down onto the face of the hub (i.e. the mating surface of the hub and rotor) but so far no budge.

And yes, I know it's less than ideal to be pushing against the half-shaft/axle stub but it is what it is (and I need to loosen that anyway lol).

Handbrake is off.

Edited September 1, 2019 by M3AN

[325_driver 422]

@M3AN mate, the struggle is real today, i really appreciate you posting this, it is comforting knowing others in the BMW world are pulling hair out. 

Go borrow a blow torch .... i.e. heat the metal until its red, then hit it with the mallet, and work your way around it.

That's hardcore lol, i've only once had to do that.

[M3AN 4016]

Cheers @325_driver, if nothing else the sympathy is comforting!

I'm wondering if one of those $80 butane heat torches from Bunnings/Mitre10 are worth a punt, they say up to 400*C which I'd think would be good enough.

Perhaps useful for future tasks also but I've never used one or even heard if they're any good at all.

 

[C-130 Hercules 570]

Heat gun might do the trick too.

[M3AN 4016]

2 minutes ago, C-130 Hercules said:

Heat gun might do the trick too.

Might be a smarter investment since I don't own one already.

It's sitting with the puller tension on it outside overnight wrapped in plastic. If it gets cold enough that might crack it.

Wheel bolts are loosely on so that if it does crack it doesn't fall off and hit the concrete at 0300 and wake all the neighbourhood dogs.

 

Edited September 1, 2019 by M3AN

[325_driver 422]

@M3AN don't be afraid of giving that inner of the rotor a beating with a mallet, you usually need to in order to break the rust seizing it on.  And then tap the outside of the rotor with a (rubber) mallet from the inside gentle to see if you have any movement

else, yup butane torch ... that's the one bro

Edited September 1, 2019 by 325_driver

[325_driver 422]

1 hour ago, M3AN said:

If it gets cold enough that might crack it.

unfourtunately metal contracts in the cold, so it will be extra siezed at night ?

[hunter 407]

Spent my fathers day after noon washing the E39. First wash after a cut and polish / paint correction a few weeks ago. Also first wash with chemical guys shampoo. Super sudsing stuff goes on and comes off super smooth with a new wash Mitt. 

Also a coat of fireball hydrophobic spray. 

Need to get the wheels refurbished soon. Their condition is driving me nuts. 

 

[M3AN 4016]

That looks like it's come up real fine!

 

[M3AN 4016]

14 minutes ago, 325_driver said:

unfourtunately metal contracts in the cold, so it will be extra siezed at night ?

The hub is metal too. ?

Any movement of either hub or rotor will be beneficial but it remains to be seen whether that'll happen.

[325_driver 422]

@M3AN just get the blow torch I think you'll find it quite therapeutic raining fire down on that seized rotor and coming down with your mallet like Thor.

Something tells me it deserves it

[C-130 Hercules 570]

2 hours ago, 325_driver said:

unfourtunately metal contracts in the cold, so it will be extra siezed at night ?

That's when you pull out the heat gun in the morning. ?

You could also get a bag of salt ice from the servo and wrap it around it for an hour. Then heat gun. 

Edited September 1, 2019 by C-130 Hercules

[325_driver 422]

@C-130 Hercules I like where this is going

So basically you're suggesting to split it in two?

Hell yes. Please upload photos of cracked rotor.

Maybe he needs Nitric acid in a water Blaster too for good measure hit the entire area with it.

[andrewm 236]

6 hours ago, M3AN said:

One rotor just about fell off, the other one not so much... still stuck WTF?!?

Won't even pull off... ideas? And yes, I've tried the gentle persuasion of a steel mallet... and no, those wheel bolts aren't holding it on. I've sprayed penetrating lube (into the lug holes) to leak down onto the face of the hub (i.e. the mating surface of the hub and rotor) but so far no budge.

And yes, I know it's less than ideal to be pushing against the half-shaft/axle stub but it is what it is (and I need to loosen that anyway lol).

Handbrake is off.

 

Had a few stuck good but didnt need the rotor afterwards so took a big golf swing at the rotor from the back with a sledgehammer. Mine were always rusted at the hub ring so make sure to soak that particularly with wd40 or similar. 

Usually 2 good whacks with the sledge otherwise id wail on it all over with a hard rubber mallet for a few minutes, the next sledge hit always got it. 

Edited September 1, 2019 by andrewm

[Eagle 1660]

LPG torch would have it off in a few mins with that puller on it. Don't know if it heat gun would generate enough heat doing the same but you could try. Otherwise it may be less hassle to pay a garage etc to do the heating part.