What'd you do to your BMW today?

[zero 1162]

22 hours ago, andrewm said:

 

Had a few stuck good but didnt need the rotor afterwards so took a big golf swing at the rotor from the back with a sledgehammer. Mine were always rusted at the hub ring so make sure to soak that particularly with wd40 or similar. 

Usually 2 good whacks with the sledge otherwise id wail on it all over with a hard rubber mallet for a few minutes, the next sledge hit always got it. 

Stupid question, but the handbrake isnt on is it?

If the brake rotors are at the end of their life you could always smash it off with a hammer and replace.

[325_driver 422]

@zero who cares about the handbrake, or even if there's bolts holding it on! BLOW TORCH AND SMASH THE THING OFF! BMW's are built for punishment

[M3AN 4016]

On 9/1/2019 at 5:40 PM, M3AN said:

One rotor just about fell off, the other one not so much... still stuck WTF?!?

Won't even pull off... ideas? And yes, I've tried the gentle persuasion of a steel mallet... and no, those wheel bolts aren't holding it on. I've sprayed penetrating lube (into the lug holes) to leak down onto the face of the hub (i.e. the mating surface of the hub and rotor) but so far no budge.

And yes, I know it's less than ideal to be pushing against the half-shaft/axle stub but it is what it is (and I need to loosen that anyway lol).

Handbrake is off.

Got the rotor off... lucky I still had the lug bolts still in there or it would have taken out my legs and perhaps the wall of the house, I think the sound of it cracking free ricocheted around the neighbourhood for about 20 mins. Time, penetrating lube, the puller (3 days of tension) and a rubber mallet.

So, if the rotor is effectively welded on how do you expect the hub will be... ?? Can't use the puller on that because the axle has now broken free of the hub so nothing to purchase on. Got a butane edit: propane torch, that did nothing except cook the bearing that's in there. Looks like I'll need to get a backing plate and try and wind it off using the lugs but if that doesn't work then I think I'll just put it back together and take it to a workshop... although I have no idea what they'll try.

I'm not event sure I'll be able to get the half-shafts out, they're certainly not going to come free from the diff so it'll have to be done an an assembly. Can't even fit a socket bigger than 1/4" drive onto the inner bolts of the axle so impossible to get enough torque to get them out. Very poor design.

What a PITA.

Edited September 4, 2019 by M3AN

[zero 1162]

Use a backing plate and lug bolts and it will come out

[Eagle 1662]

57 minutes ago, M3AN said:

to get the half-shafts out, they're certainly not going to come free from the diff so it'll have to be done an an assembly. Can't even fit a socket bigger than 1/4" drive onto the inner bolts of the axle so impossible to get enough torque to get them out. Very poor design.

I don't really understand your description but the half shaft is free on the wheel hub spline now? When you saying inner bolts are you referring to the torx diff output flange torx bolts?  

[Mad_Max 231]

15 minutes ago, Eagle said:

I don't really understand your description but the half shaft is free on the wheel hub spline now? When you saying inner bolts are you referring to the torx diff output flange torx bolts?  

I'm assuming that's what he means... in which case, here's my trick, others may know other ways. Short extension (3" or so), and attack the 3 bolts on either side at the top. I can usually undo 4 bolts aside that way, then spin the diff so the remaining bolts are at the top and go again. Then, if the spline on the axle is free and not seized to the hub, the whole axle will pull through the centre of the bearing, job done.

[M3AN 4016]

1 hour ago, Eagle said:

I don't really understand your description but the half shaft is free on the wheel hub spline now? When you saying inner bolts are you referring to the torx diff output flange torx bolts?  

Sorry for being unclear, yes, that's what I'm referring to. And also yes, the half shafts now slide in and out of the hub splines.

1 hour ago, Mad_Max said:

I'm assuming that's what he means... in which case, here's my trick, others may know other ways. Short extension (3" or so), and attack the 3 bolts on either side at the top. I can usually undo 4 bolts aside that way, then spin the diff so the remaining bolts are at the top and go again. Then, if the spline on the axle is free and not seized to the hub, the whole axle will pull through the centre of the bearing, job done.

Thank you.

It's not actually a physical access thing (yet)... even if I take the lowermost bolt with 'free access' from under the car I only have a 1/4" drive ET12 socket and that's nowhere near strong enough to crack those buggers... a 3/8" may do it but I'm not convinced, feels 1/2" tight. ? Unfortunately extensions just reduce torque so until I can crack the bolts they're not going to help. I have heaps of room under the car at the moment.

Keeping in mind this car appears to have lived in a swamp for many of its previous lives, I've sprayed them all, will see what eventuates.

But the hubs have got to come off first because if I can't get them off, I don't need the axles out. ?

Whoever eventually buys this is going to get a brand new car, built from the inside out... 

Edited September 4, 2019 by M3AN

[Mad_Max 231]

15 minutes ago, M3AN said:

a 3/8" may do it but I'm not convinced, feels 1/2" tight. ? Unfortunately extensions just reduce torque so until I can crack the bolts they're not going to help. I have heaps of room under the car at the moment.

Yep 3/8" is all I use, and the shortest extension possible. Haven't broken a socket, extension or ratchet yet lol. Sorry I missed what exactly you're trying to do here? And I'm assuming E36 yeah? Is it the wheel bearings you're trying to replace?

[M3AN 4016]

19 minutes ago, Mad_Max said:

...And I'm assuming E36 yeah? Is it the wheel bearings you're trying to replace?

Yes and yes, the 328, rear wheel bearings. ?? If we get a fine patch tomorrow I'll try and wind it out... and post updates in my beater thread.

 

[Eagle 1662]

Ive used my Koken 3\8" E12 and bar on every BMW ive owned (and a few Mercedes) without issue, if you need more power then you can slip a jack handle, pipe etc on the bar. It can take a little wiggling to move the socket past the axle boot (worse at lower positions obviously) but i guarantee it will work. 

What stopping you from pushing back in the axle and putting so you can reattach the puller. Ive never used a butane torch so maybe they aren't quite as effective as LPG but it can take awhile when using low temp torches.

Heat + slide hammer with a towel or puller is what ive always used to pull hubs but im not sure how you planned to remove the hubs even if you got the rotor off.

[Mad_Max 231]

Gotcha now ?. Cheater trick that's a little brutal to remove the flanges. Puller should go over the flange and onto the end of the axle, if it doesn't fit plan B is just a large slide hammer onto the flange. If the puller fits, it makes life easier. Put as much tension on it as you can, then use your butane torch to heat just the flange. Use a CO2 fire extinguisher on the axle to help cool it real quick while the flange is hot. Expansion of the flange and contraction of the axle, and the shock of cooling the axle quickly, should help break it free ?.

The other trick would be to try concentrated heat on the flange itself, like an arc welder. Run a bead around the flange (with pressure on it), the concentrated heat may be enough to expand just the flange without enough heat penetrating the axle.

It's brutal but I've done the heat/extinguisher trick before to other parts with success.

[M3AN 4016]

43 minutes ago, Eagle said:

Ive used my Koken 3\8" E12 and bar on every BMW ive owned (and a few Mercedes) without issue, if you need more power then you can slip a jack handle, pipe etc on the bar. It can take a little wiggling to move the socket past the axle boot (worse at lower positions obviously) but i guarantee it will work. 

What stopping you from pushing back in the axle and putting so you can reattach the puller. Ive never used a butane torch so maybe they aren't quite as effective as LPG but it can take awhile when using low temp torches.

Heat + slide hammer with a towel or puller is what ive always used to pull hubs but im not sure how you planned to remove the hubs even if you got the rotor off.

I'm the kind that says "if you need a socket, buy a set" and I was hoping to avoid having to buy yet another set of sockets. I mean I could do worse of course, new tools and all. ?

Propane is supplied as LPG, it's as good as it gets before you get to oxy-fuels, pretty much the same temp as butane (edit: and I realise I said I'd purchased a "butane" torch before, my bad). I forgot to mention it was a good excuse to get a new tool!

The plan (before I started) was that the hubs would come off easily enough... I thought they'd be difficult but not rhino difficult. The axle is now free enough that it'll actually slide out the back side of the hub now with enough force so it's no longer any good to press (pull) against.

41 minutes ago, Mad_Max said:

Gotcha now ?. Cheater trick that's a little brutal to remove the flanges. Puller should go over the flange and onto the end of the axle, if it doesn't fit plan B is just a large slide hammer onto the flange. If the puller fits, it makes life easier. Put as much tension on it as you can, then use your butane torch to heat just the flange. Use a CO2 fire extinguisher on the axle to help cool it real quick while the flange is hot. Expansion of the flange and contraction of the axle, and the shock of cooling the axle quickly, should help break it free ?.

The other trick would be to try concentrated heat on the flange itself, like an arc welder. Run a bead around the flange (with pressure on it), the concentrated heat may be enough to expand just the flange without enough heat penetrating the axle.

It's brutal but I've done the heat/extinguisher trick before to other parts with success.

Thanks! I've done most of that (pretty much by trial and error), puller against axle with (a lot of) tension on the hub and flame around the flange, flange was hot enough to make WD40 sizzle on application... no budge. And now the axle has loosened up and slides freely within the hub so can't be used for purchase. ?

I'll try and wind them off, I think a bearing splitter should work as a backing plate if I can find a 80-100mm one for good value.

Oh, AND A NEW TOOL! ???

 

Edited September 4, 2019 by M3AN

[Eagle 1662]

I was meaning putting the axle nut back on the shaft to secure it so you can try and get the rotor off again

I think going to need a some more gear if you want to do it by yourself. You still going to be a wheel bearing puller kit or big rod and plates with correct diameters to get the actual bearing out and in.

 

[M3AN 4016]

10 minutes ago, Eagle said:

I was meaning putting the axle nut back on the shaft to secure it so you can try and get the rotor off again

I think going to need a some more gear if you want to do it by yourself. You still going to be a wheel bearing puller kit or big rod and plates with correct diameters to get the actual bearing out and in.

 

I think the nut sits on the hub itself, could be pushing and pulling against the same thing... but I hadn't thought of that so I'll have a look today, thanks. ?

I have borrowed a proper bearing puller set... we'll see if I get to use it. ?

[M3AN 4016]

When you get exactly the right tool for the job...

F' you wheel hubs, four blows each and both sides just popped out. Inner races are both stuck on the hubs (to be expected).

Edited September 6, 2019 by M3AN

[Mad_Max 231]

5 minutes ago, M3AN said:

F' you wheel hubs, four blows each and both sides just popped out. Inner races are both stuck on the hubs (to be expected).

Hahaha brute force for the win!!

[Breaker 980]

Crankcase valve replacement on the V12, not much room, particularly with the main engine loom in the way but not that difficult. Plus with a 12 you get to do them twice ! Yippee

[325_driver 422]

@M3AN WOW! After hearing this, when i do my calipers, i'm going to take all rotors off HOPEFULLY and clean em up applying either fresh anti seize or a coat of zinc.

[zero 1162]

I use copper grease to eliminate seizing. I use it on the outside of the hub as sometimes the wheel seizes to the hub. Just wire brush it first so the surface is clean.

 

[hunter 408]

Replaced drivers door inner seal. Old one was well past it. Only 2 two goes to get it lined up. Quick wipe with some protectant and we are good to go. 

Also replaced the roundel on the hood. Was greeted with the attached when I removed the chipped old one. Took a bit to clean it up with a plastic blade tool. 

Installed new badge with proper rubber grommets and it looks much better. 

[325_driver 422]

Spent the day upgrading the overall performance and handling of my suspension with after market tyre HARTGE valve caps. 

Well worth it

 

 

[M3AN 4016]

Wicked, can you feel the V-TEC kick in now? 

[325_driver 422]

@M3AN a bit more than that mate! It's like a TWIN TURBO NOW

[aja540i 1906]

Fed the M5 a nice shiney new set of injectors, also got a package from Germany full of new sheet metal for the E21!

[M3AN 4016]

Accepted that the half shafts aren't coming off the diff so the rear arms need to come out to replace the wheel bearings. Big picture it's not so bad, it will require an alignment so it forces me down the path of doing the front end at the same time and I need a WoF anyway.

I thought the bearings might take 2 days max, lol. But I am learning a lot about brute force.