E46 320d Touring - life with a high mileage car

[gjm 3193]

I like to think that careful maintenance and not abusing the car has paid dividends - costs have been pretty reasonable - but we may just be lucky. We've gone through some tyres along the way, and mpg has dropped although that may be testament to the change in use - instead of one long run from Clevedon into Hamilton and back each day, it's now doing two trips up and down the Bombay Hills, and significantly more stop-start work.

I think we're into some CABs very soon, and I'm keeping an eye on the shocks. However, we're not overloading or towing so it's getting a fairly easy life, if one involving a significant number of kms.

Anyone got experience of polyurethane bushes on an E46? The CABs are a known regular requirement so extending their life sounds like a good idea. I think in the past that the entire arm has been replaced, rather than just the bushes and having done this work on other cars, I entirely understand why.

[coop 261]

Nice thread. Did the cat removal result in better fuel economy?

You fuel figures are a bit off from my experience, especially up and down the Waikato expressway which is a good piece of road. I usually manage 5.8l/100km wgtn-akld consistently. Last long trip I did was Wgtn-Napier-Cambridge-Wgtn and worst was Napier to Cambridge, just over 6l/100km - Napier Taupo an economy killer.

In saying that I have a 4dr. I've had a couple Falcon sedans and wagons in the past and the sedans have always bettered the wagons with the same driving style and roads.

I see you've done the EGR delete/disconnect, but have since replaced the EGR thermostat... This would be pointless would it not?...

I'm in Oz for five weeks but when I get back I'll look into the EGR delete, cat removal and intake clean with new O rings and swirl flap blanking plates, as I suspect I may have boost leak... which will effect economy and make the turbo work harder.

I'm also after economy with these thing. My V8 ute very rarely sees below 10/100km, except up the Waikato expressway, its not a bad feeling nearly halving that. Also have two sport motorbikes 675cc and 1100cc which use more fuel than the diesel bimmer lol.

[gjm 3193]

I suspect the mileage covered may be having some effect on economy. There is a good chance the turbo is a bit tired, and it's something I'm looking to replace.

Deleting the front cat seemed to make a difference when driving - whether it improved economy is hard to say. Economy was better when I was driving from Clevedon south and back (we're now in Te Kauwhata), but Mrs M has been putting the lion's share of the miles on the car recently, ferrying Miss M to and from school. That's meant more less-than-ideal driving.

My Mercedes does 10 or 11km to a litre - more if I drive really carefully - but they were never a particularly economical car and some of the things I've done may not help much. Lovely to drive, though.

[gjm 3193]

So the exhaust is making a lot of rattling noises. No blow or unusual roar, just the sound of pieces of metal banging around. Could be a loose heat shield, could be the cat falling apart, could be baffles. Hopefully find out later.

Spoke to someone today and was quoted "700 or 800 bucks" for a custom-made, tig-welded stainless system with mandrel bends. That's food for thought. Just buying a back box in from Germany would cost more than that.

[gjm 3193]

So the exhaust is making a lot of rattling noises. No blow or unusual roar, just the sound of pieces of metal banging around. Could be a loose heat shield, could be the cat falling apart, could be baffles. Hopefully find out later.

Spoke to someone today and was quoted "700 or 800 bucks" for a custom-made, tig-welded stainless system with mandrel bends. That's food for thought. Just buying a back box in from Germany would cost more than that.

OK, so the custom exhaust idea, while an option, isn't an option. Timeframes just don't fit. He's stacked out with race work (in fairness - he'll make a lot more money from that than he ever will from me and I completely understand) and while he may be able to fit me in towards the end of next week, it's much more likely to be the week after. The racket this is making, I really don't want to wait that long.

It is part number 2 on the diagram below.

And that is - quite literally - more than the price of a complete (well, downpipe back) custom exhaust system.

So I've spoken to Geddes Automotive in Onehunga and will take the car in there first thing in the morning. They've been around a while and hopefully longevity is some indication of decent work. I'm not looking for a complete system, just a replacement for that part.

The problem? It looks as though there has been an issue with that section of the exhaust in the past as there are signs of welding in two places (behind the cat, and at the bend), and those welds are breaking up. While it sounds like loose pieces of metal, it's just that type of blow on the exhaust. I've packed under the bracket to support the pipe as a very temporary measure and this has quietened things down considerably. Hopefully for long enough to get it sorted.

This feels a little like a bodge fix, which I really don't like, but it's a 'good' bodge. I'm taking bad and broken stuff off the car and replacing with something good.

[qube 3568]

How difficult is it to find a replacement part number 2?

[gjm 3193]

How difficult is it to find a replacement part number 2?

Locally and quickly, probably not easy. There may be a genuine BMW part on a shelf in a warehouse, but equally likely is that it would be ex-Germany. Pattern parts for the 320d are a bit thin on the ground in NZ - not actually a problem providing you remember this, and plan a little in advance. The part is available from Europe (and probably elsewhere)

Unfortunately, when an exhaust splits (as this has) then it's time. Now, kinda thing. And it's not really practical to wait 'til something arrives from overseas.

On this occasion it's as much a price thing as anything else. Genuine BMW exhaust parts are more than likely very expensive (I saw EUR 300+ ex-Europe), so this seems a sensible approach on this occasion. Cheapest pattern part readily available from Europe is around EUR 125 plus shipping; Geddes quoted about $150 for something made to order.

[qube 3568]

That sounds very reasonable.

Keep posted with how it goes and good luck!

[gjm 3193]

Hopefully I'll be there on Sunday to tell the tale!

[Ahmedsinc 414]

Just double check the geddes quote is for using stainless. Every car post E36 I've ever been under has used the good stuff, would make sense to do the same on yours too

[gjm 3193]

Just double check the geddes quote is for using stainless. Every car post E36 I've ever been under has used the good stuff, would make sense to do the same on yours too

I'll do that.

[gjm 3193]

Zorst - fixed. The middle pipe had split, and quite bady, in two places. Someone has at some point had a similar problem and tried to MIG repair it - that really doesn't work on stainless, but we've had the car for nearly 12 months and it'd not been a problem until very recently.

The vibration looks likely to be due to an occasionally binding near side front brake. Possibly a piston not releasing properly, or sticking.

[gjm 3193]

To recap - I've rebuilt the nearside front brake caliper. The piston has ssen much better days and there was rust above the seal land... I've treated this and polished it, but there is pitting so I'll be replacing it ASAP. To be fair, at the distance covered it's probably about time for some open brake surgery so I'm going to investigate what is available. If I can find stainless pistons I'll use them, but if not, there are kits available at reasonable prices. Even pattern calipers are available, but I trust ATE to do a good job so I'll look to rebuild rather than replace.

Certainly the car seems to be running much more smoothly since the caliper rebuild. I'd not noticed, but I suspect a very slight vibration has been there for some time. Hopefully we'll find we regain some of the economy that has been missing for a month or so.

I have a feeling - nothing more - that I may need to look at wheel bearings, too. It's just a feeling. I get them sometimes. There's no rumble or similar, but...

So, to answer Jeevan's question (again ) costs so far have been very reasonable. I thought I was into LCA bushes but they seem fine. However, it looks as though it is time to do some preventative maintenance by way of brake overhauls and the like. I'll inspect the hoses and if any need replacing, will get a good braided steel set. It's not a case of upgrading components, but as they wear and need replacing, I'll use good stuff rather than the cheapest option.

As detailed earlier the discs and pads were replaced not so long ago and while the ones fitted don't give the best 'feel', they definitely work well.

Oh - WoF, today. I suspect at least two of the tyres will fail, in which case a set of Michelin Pilot HXs will be fitted. Standard rim size - 16x7, with 205/55-16s. I'll get an alignment done, too - Tyre Tracks in Kent street, Frankton, will take care of it. Chris is a good guy. (And I'll be looking for a set of 205-50/16s for the Merc - the 55 profile would probably be OK with rolled and flared arches but is a little ambitious for a standard fit, on ET37 rims, at least.)

About to pass 257000 miles. 413,600km. Oil and filter again today, too.

[gjm 3193]

Passed the WoF with no advisories - the tyres were plenty good enough. I swapped them for a mint set of Michelin Pilot HXs that I'd planned to use on the Merc, but in fairness that was a bit ambitious. They're strictly too big for the Merc in it's current set-up so I'll sort 205-50/16s for that, instead. Besides, no harm whatsoever in putting the good tyres on the BMW.

The alignment has been done so the four road wheels are all perfectly in the middle of the specified tolerances. They weren't far out anyway, but let's have things right. Chris at Tyre Tracks wanted to straighten the steering wheel too - it was about 1/16th of a turn out of line but he's a perfectionist - but the track rod ends were going to need heat to release them, an issue common to many cars. To be honest, when driving home I couldn't tell the steering wheel was off centre at all.

Only one teensy issue with the WoF - a rear number plate bulb wasn't working. Actually, it wasn't there. And neither was the plastic cover that goes over it. Hmm. It's conceivable that shutting the tailgate has dislodged it at some stage, but that just seems unlikely. Odd. No worries - Greg Hantz replaced the bulb and cover for a very small amount. $5 for the whole job, or something like that.

Other than that, no error codes, and the brakes were fine.

Another 5.5 litres of Penrite Enviro+ 5W-40 in the engine. That's the last of my stock, so I'll either buy some more, or try something different... Nah. It's good oil. I'll stick with it.

And now the search for caliper rebuild kits begins. Anyone know where I can get stainless pistons? I'll be looking in the UK in the first instance.

[gjm 3193]

Just been browsing brakeparts.co.uk. Full rebuild kits for both front calipers (including pistons) and kits for the rear calipers (don't include pistons): GBP 90 ex VAT. Or around NZ $180, plus shipping.

Can't find stainless caliper pistons for the 'normal' E46. They're made for the M3, but not for the lower performance variants, and according to RealOEM the caliper repair kits (which would include a piston) are different.

Anyone have a machine shop and stainless bar stock and fancy giving it a go?

Edited October 14, 2014 by gjm

[gjm 3193]

The only supplier I found (in the US) for stainless caliper pistons doesn't hold stock, and their supplier has ceased making them.

So standard chromed steel, or locally sourced stainless is the only obvious option.

[kiwi535 538]

Given that the originals have lasted either 400 thou k or maybe half that,is a stainless piston going to be of beneefit? Will the car still be going at 800 thou ks?

Edited October 22, 2014 by kiwi535

[gjm 3193]

I've been weighing up the hassle it looks like it'll be to find/source/commission stainless pistons, against buying some chrome steel ones and have been coming to the same conclusion. The only potential issue is the unknown quality of the replacement pistons... I'm currently seeing if I can source a genuine ATE piston and seal kit, rather than one from another manufacturer.

Will the car be running at 800k? It'd be nice to think so! No real reason why not, but that's a long way off and a lot can happen between now and then. And will we still have it?

I think if finding stainless pistons had been easier, I would have happily gone for them. As it is, hard-chromed steel will do just fine. It was good enough for BMW, originally, after all.

[Allanw 1051]

Will the car be running at 800k? It'd be nice to think so! No real reason why not, but that's a long way off and a lot can happen between now and then. And will we still have it?

It's only money... You can keep anything going forever with enough of it. And it's cheaper to keep and old car going, than buying a brand new one

I get tempted to buy something with mega miles, just to show people who think 100K is too much. Mrs old Impreza was really well looked after, and had 325K on when we sold it. It wasn't immaculate, but certainly looked tidy enough. I'd have driven that thing anywhere without notice - If I'd had to drive the length of the country, we'd have just jumped in and gone. I'd have kept it if the kids could have been gotten in and out easilyer!

There's an E39 528i with 475K on it, on tardme currently.

[qube 3568]

id be more worried about having to replace the suspension parts and cooling systems on higher milage cars than anything else.

i had an old honda inspire (similar to accord) for a few months and that had 300+ kms on it which i bought for like 800 bucks and that thing drove really good.

[gjm 3193]

id be more worried about having to replace the suspension parts and cooling systems on higher milage cars than anything else.

i had an old honda inspire (similar to accord) for a few months and that had 300+ kms on it which i bought for like 800 bucks and that thing drove really good.

There's nothing actually complicated in doing that - most of that sort of work is just about being methodical. Rebuilding the brakes is perhaps a little more involved, but even that isn't really difficult.

The only proviso to owning and using an older car (on a regular basis) that I'd make is that you need to be prepared to get your hands dirty. Or have plenty of money.

[kiwi535 538]

 

It's only money... You can keep anything going forever with enough of it. And it's cheaper to keep and old car going, than buying a brand new one

 

I get tempted to buy something with mega miles, just to show people who think 100K is too much. Mrs old Impreza was really well looked after, and had 325K on when we sold it. It wasn't immaculate, but certainly looked tidy enough. I'd have driven that thing anywhere without notice - If I'd had to drive the length of the country, we'd have just jumped in and gone. I'd have kept it if the kids could have been gotten in and out easilyer!

 

There's an E39 528i with 475K on it, on tardme currently.

Same with my e34 but major repairs could easily equal the value of the car over a year

[gjm 3193]

Took it into Coombes Johnson in Hamilton today for the recall to have an airbag changed.

They gave me coffee, drove me into the office, called back later and picked me up. The service manager and I had a chat about the car and he told me how impressed he was with the mileage and condition, saying when he got in that the recorded distance caused him to nod and think "not bad"... And then he realised it was miles, and not kilometres. An engineer who drove it told me it didn't feel much different from a new one.

CJ changed the airbag, of course. They also thoroughly valeted the car inside and out, replaced the number plate surrounds which were getting tired (with CJ ones, obviously), and fitted a double card holder in the windscreen for the RUC and registration cards.

They also gave it a thorough check over and found that the transmission sump gasket has a very slight weep. But that's it. Nothing else that they could suggest needed looking at. (The gasket and filter were replaced by Marshalls. Hmm.)

Not bad. And (I think) good service.

[Allanw 1051]

Same with my e34 but major repairs could easily equal the value of the car over a year

But not as much as buying a replacement to "save" the cost of repairs.

I find it hilarious when people sell a $3000 car, because it needs $1000 spent on it, then buy an $8000 car, that still needs $1000 spent on it 6 months later... Good economics! Only cost $5000 to save... nothing Hehe. That's pretty much why I brought the E39 instead of something newer (we just needed more space).

Took it into Coombes Johnson in Hamilton today for the recall to have an airbag changed.

They gave me coffee, drove me into the office, called back later and picked me up. The service manager and I had a chat about the car and he told me how impressed he was with the mileage and condition, saying when he got in that the recorded distance caused him to nod and think "not bad"... And then he realised it was miles, and not kilometres. An engineer who drove it told me it didn't feel much different from a new one.

CJ changed the airbag, of course. They also thoroughly valeted the car inside and out, replaced the number plate surrounds which were getting tired (with CJ ones, obviously), and fitted a double card holder in the windscreen for the RUC and registration cards.

They also gave it a thorough check over and found that the transmission sump gasket has a very slight weep. But that's it. Nothing else that they could suggest needed looking at. (The gasket and filter were replaced by Marshalls. Hmm.)

Not bad. And (I think) good service.

BMW have always been very good with recalls - I remember taking Dads E30 in, well out of warranty for the cooling system recall. Similar service. It's quite funny really, considering how old the cars are at the time of the recall - You really just ecpect the bare minimum to be done.

[kiwi535 538]

 

But not as much as buying a replacement to "save" the cost of repairs.

 

True dat,but I think most people think that as soon as a car gets OLD, its a never ending unreliable money pit