BreakMyWindow 1878 Report post Posted October 17, 2015 More progress. Bank 1 and 2 Upper timing cases off and on, then off and on again to seat them properly. Not before the bank 2 Vanos diaphragm springs arrived though. Bank 2 vanos unit dismantled, cleaned and new orings installed. Vanos units installed, cam timing checked, bank 1 exhaust cam slightly off. Adjusted and then cam timing re-checked, checked again, checked once more, then checked another one time for good luck. Timing now perfect. Vanos solenoids installed New cam bearing oiling rail for bank 2 intake. Old one was munted, most likeley someone leaning on it while working on the engine in the past. Radiator and other bits installed. Cam covers, new spark plugs, earth straps, coils installed. Coolant added and a once over for any loose nuts/bolts and she's ready for firing up. The engine started first pop, although very rattly, and lumpy. This lasted about 30 seconds and then it came right. Ran a vanos test on Bank 1. Success! Let the engine warm up so the air bleeds from the cooling system, then on to installing the rest of the bits Cleared all the fault codes in relation to the air mass sensors being unplugged and took it for a spin around the block. Need to check for leaks over the next few kms. This job took me ages. Going slowly, at least 50 hours. Saved a sh1t tonne in labour however and learned a great deal about how the vanos system works in the S62, which is something I've always been keen on. 9 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted October 17, 2015 Ballsy project, one of those save myself 7k if sucess or cost myself extra 7k if fail I imagine. I feel like I'm in the stone age digging sand and rust out of my E30 and M20 while you dabble in stuff that wouldn't look out of place on a space shuttle. 2 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rubix 434 Report post Posted October 17, 2015 Awesome! Glad it started, good work on doing such a job yourself. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HELLBM 1560 Report post Posted October 17, 2015 Great work Martin. If you are considering a change in vocation..... 3 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rusteee 52 Report post Posted October 17, 2015 Well done man!! What an awsome project meticulously done. Keen to see it at the next meet Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NUSTAD 243 Report post Posted October 17, 2015 Congrats Martin - you have lifetime membership on your man card! Seriously great work! Now you get to enjoy it! 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybrid 1044 Report post Posted October 17, 2015 Tits dude ... good stuff. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BreakMyWindow 1878 Report post Posted October 20, 2015 Changed the radiator fan yesterday evening, the original one had a chip in it. Thanks to Hellbm for the replacement. Done over 200kms now since the surgery, no leaks so far. Off to get a few power runs at MCR automotive's dyno to see what she's making at the rear wheels. 4 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted October 20, 2015 Awesome effort mate Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2313 Report post Posted October 20, 2015 227.5rkw is my guess. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BreakMyWindow 1878 Report post Posted October 21, 2015 Looks like the surgery has paid off with decent dyno results. Car is 100% stock. Being quite a hot day and the dyno cell being even hotter, the sucked air temp was 51 deg C. Not ideal for getting an accurate power run. Stock mapping retards ignition timing if the sucked air temp gets above 40 Deg C. So I came up with an idea... The inlet temp sensor is intergrated in to the passenger side maf.... After about 10 mins the sucked air temp reading was 28deg C. Good for getting a more accurate reading. Big fan to keep the engine cool. Trusty old IBM stink pad with INPA and DIS to keep an eye on the temperatures 234 kw at the wheels with sucked air temp @ 31 deg C. 5 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2313 Report post Posted October 21, 2015 Awesome, hehe what a good guess! Funny to think at 3,500rpm it matches what my E36 1UZ did at 5,500rpm peak. What software are you running to pull up the diagnostics, is that just plugged into the OBDII port? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BreakMyWindow 1878 Report post Posted October 21, 2015 Youtube clip 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BreakMyWindow 1878 Report post Posted October 21, 2015 Awesome, hehe what a good guess! Funny to think at 3,500rpm it matches what my E36 1UZ did at 5,500rpm peak. What software are you running to pull up the diagnostics, is that just plugged into the OBDII port? Yep, plugged in to the pac-man port using a cable from ebay Lithuania. Took me hours to get DIS working, in the end I obtained a pre-configured image that just worked and passed the API test off the bat. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NUSTAD 243 Report post Posted October 21, 2015 Nice clean curve on the dyne plot - great work! What's next....... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2429 Report post Posted October 21, 2015 love the nice linear power line. wish i could afford one of these, such fantastic cars. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeffbebe 1560 Report post Posted October 21, 2015 Let's go driving this weekend, Martin!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BreakMyWindow 1878 Report post Posted October 21, 2015 Nice clean curve on the dyne plot - great work! What's next....... On to the diff input seal. Took a mate and I 2 hours this morning. Everything went smoothly and was good to see the Guibo was recently replaced. As you can see the input seal was leaking badly and had made a mess that was not fun to clean up. Oxygen sensors unplugged, exhaust removed as one piece, driveshaft out and then on to cleaning up baked on diff oil. Stones caught in between the heat shield and driveshaft grinding away at the paint on the shaft Before After, with new input seal in place. New gearbox oil as recommended by Kayne Barrie. The old fluid looked original, black. Driveshaft back in, exhaust wrestled in to place and some more clean up. Job done! Next job is to install these. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kulgan 1042 Report post Posted October 21, 2015 As usual. Awesome work. This is one of my favourite threads. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2313 Report post Posted October 22, 2015 The mufflers arrived???? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BreakMyWindow 1878 Report post Posted October 22, 2015 The mufflers arrived???? Yeah a few weeks ago. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2313 Report post Posted October 22, 2015 Awesome. Look forward to seeing / hearing them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BreakMyWindow 1878 Report post Posted October 22, 2015 Might sound way too loud as there are no cats in this one. Might need some resonators in between the oxy sensors to tone it down a bit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2313 Report post Posted October 22, 2015 Mmmm yeah that did cross my mind. I see they already run an H pipe before the Y resonator. Might be quieter again if you turn it into an X, but that would change the overall tone quite a bit. Ive still got some spare exhaust parts, those new mafnaflow cats and a pair of small resonators from an Audi S6 V10, not sure if Ill use them on the V8. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BreakMyWindow 1878 Report post Posted October 27, 2015 Some more progress. Eisenmann race back boxes installed. No cats = Loud. Facelift xenon headlights installed. DSP adapter for my ipod kit picked up tonight from our forum sponsor gadgets4u. Epic fail on the facelift LED tail lights install/swap with other M5. The metal buckets need more 'fettling' with a BFH in order for the tail light gaskets to seal against the metal. Thankfully not much rain forecasted as I now have 2 M5's with leaking tail lights :-x After spending a good few hours drilling the bigger holes required, and re-shaping the buckets with a dead blow, checking for leaks after assembly (fail) I got fed up and decided to use this : Waited 24 hours for it to cure. Did a leak test, still leaking. Because the other M5 is also a pre fl, the buckets were beaten with a hammer to get the fl tail lights to fit, I installed new gaskets last year and they did not leak. What's worse is having to A. remove cured urethane, and B. doing the whole job on 2 cars to ensure leak free tail lights that sit nicely. I'll get there... 4 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites