My new SS Commodore... in a sharp german suit

[Young Thrash Driver 1020]

Don't you just hate it when all the air goes to the top? How does one crack the bead section, is that impact related?

[Olaf 3340]

7 minutes ago, Young Thrash Driver said:

Don't you just hate it when all the air goes to the top? How does one crack the bead section, is that impact related?

?  yeah, the air was craning for the best view!  Imapct?  I think so.  The first one (last year), I know I hit a pot hole on SH2 that was a fair impact on the front left.  This one (right rear) I have no memory of.  I don't drive up or down kerbs, don't recall a pot hole on right rear... could have happened years ago and slowly weakened.   Recently Jon Mechaniker remarked some of the rims seemed a little our of round, as did Kelvin when he first mounted the 003's.  Yesterday when we were inspecting, there was a slight flat-spot on the inner rim bead on one section.  Overall these wheels/tyres have needed balancing more regularly as the tyres wear (around 6000kms), as I'm sensitive to them going out of balance.  I think the car driving so smoothly and with all the suspension work, it really shows up the state of the wheels/tyres.

In reality it's an old car despite the care and maintenance I lavish on it; it's coming up for 15 years old!  I'll figure out the best condition rims and take them to the wheel specialists in Porirua, or perhaps Rim Rite in Palmy.  This work is a bit beyond the cosmetics from Wheel Magician.

[Olaf 3340]

31 February 2019.  172???kms

1.  Washed and dried, vacuumed interior.

2. Cleaned and deodorised A/C with Auto Glym Air-Con Cleaner.  Ahhh, less stinky!

[GorGasm 563]

How was the Auto Glym de-stinker?  Noticeably less stinky?

I am about to change all my cleaning product to Auto Glym after having decent success with their Ultra Deep Shine polish/wax.

[Young Thrash Driver 1020]

I have had success with de-stinking several BMW air-con systems now by simply running them whenever the car is on, and not using the recirculate function. The problem seems to cure itself... granted, my cars do more km than the national average. @Olaf does the Auto Glym product smell neutral or does it add a nice smell?

[Olaf 3340]

@GorGasm I’d previously used generic product from Repcacheap, and they seemed kinda citrus.  And I had to do it more than once.  The Auto Glym, by contrast, seems to have sorted it with just one application, strictly following the instructions.

Ive changed over to Auto Glym from Meguiars, it’s better in value (goes further), and looks better.  The two cars I washed yesterday were *filthy*.  After Auto Glym shampoo, rinse, and Rapid Dry towel they looked nearly as good as last time I waxed them.  And in today’s heavy rain, they're beading beautifully. 

@Young Thrash Driver product is fairly neutral, and airing the car out for ten minutes after the procedure it’s largely gone.  Drove it yesterday arvo.  This morning, no smell before or after aircon use.  Result! 

 

Edited April 1, 2019 by Olaf
Beading

[Olaf 3340]

26 April 2019.  173xxxkms

1.  Active Steering Rack: replaced.Jon at Auto38 had done the diagnosis and analysis.  My old rack was clunking.  Jon had pulled back the rack boots and found rusty grease, and significant wear in the rack teeth.  Sadly wear is not covered by my Autosure MBA.  So we were onto repair options.  Sounds easy, right?  Just get another good rack, and swap it in.  The Active Steering Rack is a big-ticket item, with a bunch of sensors all over it.  And it's a bit of a sh*t to fit, by all accounts.  Being so large, subframe comes down a long way.   A new one from BMW is not an option for me.  That would ruin my Christmas.  So good used options were sought on my behalf.

Jon & Keren sourced a suitable rack, Jon pulled the old rack and swapped over all of my existing electronics to the new (used) rack, and installed/initialised/calibrated in the car.  An alignment to top it off.   

 

[“nice rack!” Said nobody last week in a spectacular Newtown workshop.  My well-worn rack, along with the ancillaries from the new (used) rack.]

It's great to have the beast back, and it's steering nicely.  Smoother than before.  And after a couple of weeks away from the 545i (it was Easter and ANZAC, and I wasn't in a hurry), I'm reminded of why I like this car so much.  It's very talented, and does it all.

As ever, I'm very pleased with Auto38's service and professionalism.  I'm sure you will be too, if you take your car there.

Edited April 30, 2019 by Olaf
Added photos. Cos they’re worth a thousand words, innit?

[Olaf 3340]

1 May 2019.  173665kms

1.  Fuel Filler Cap: replaced.  The fuel filler cap seal was badly cracked.  And (as mentioned in my initial posts on this thread more than two years ago), was missing it’s leash.

I’d experienced a ‘lockout’ recently on my e46 (same cap), where I was unable to open the cap to fuel up, and needed to resort to soaking with penetrant to ease the seal.  So I sourced two OE replacements (one for each car).  I couldn’t see the value in Genuine BMW for this, was happy with OE product.

It’s a three minute job to replace the cap.  Seal not available as a separate part (referring to RealOEM).  

From this...

 

... to this

Job’s a good ‘un.

 

Edited April 30, 2019 by Olaf
Spelling

[KwS 2429]

Source for new fuel caps?

That really sucks about the rack, I cant believe (well, i can really) that autosure weasel'd their way out of paying for it. They shouldn't just "wear" in that sort of timeframe, but hey, that's what insurance companies are for, to get out of paying after taking all your money.

[NZ BMW 368]

8 hours ago, KwS said:

Source for new fuel caps?

That really sucks about the rack, I cant believe (well, i can really) that autosure weasel'd their way out of paying for it. They shouldn't just "wear" in that sort of timeframe, but hey, that's what insurance companies are for, to get out of paying after taking all your money.

What next? You pay for a transmission rebuild because the clutch plates just have wear on them?

[TermiPeteNZ 1319]

15 hours ago, NZ BMW said:

What next? You pay for a transmission rebuild because the clutch plates just have wear on them?

Here's the key component/cause exclusions under the 2 main AutoSure policies:

Under the Autosure Extreme:

• Batteries, exhaust systems, catalytic converters, tyres, entertainment systems, heated seat elements, light bulbs, communication systems, fuel tanks, keys and remotes;
• Repairs necessitated by external causes, contamination, perishing, corrosion, rust, consequential loss or damage, accident damage, fire damage, water damage, theft, wilful damage, misuse, neglect, faulty repair and/or defective workmanship;

Under Essential:

• Batteries, exhaust systems, shock absorbers, air bags and componentry, sunroofs, catalytic converters, tyres, seat belts, audio and entertainment systems, global positioning systems, seats, lights, communication systems, fuel tanks, air bag suspension, keys and remotes; 
• Brake pads and shoes; 
• Manual clutch and flywheels;
• Spark plugs, glow plugs, drive belts, lubricants, gas, filters, injector servicing and fluids;
• Repairs necessitated by external causes, contamination, perishing, corrosion, rust, consequential loss or damage, accident damage, fire damage, water damage, theft, wilful damage, misuse, neglect, faulty repair and/or defective workmanship;
• Repairs necessitated by the failure of any plastic components due to gradual deterioration and any resulting damage

Depends on the policy you have... Extreme is the best one to go with.

For @Olaf's rack to be excluded the repair would need to be required because of the corrosion.

So for example if my plastic timing chain guides fail on my M62TU (in my old X5) due to age/deterioration then  under my Essential policy the repair to sort it all out won't be covered. ? 

[Olaf 3340]

On 5/1/2019 at 10:32 PM, KwS said:

Source for new fuel caps?

That really sucks about the rack, I cant believe (well, i can really) that autosure weasel'd their way out of paying for it. They shouldn't just "wear" in that sort of timeframe, but hey, that's what insurance companies are for, to get out of paying after taking all your money.

I agree, a rack should not be defective at 170k kms.  However, I've no issue with Autosure as they've looked after me very well previously.  The key thing here was the rust; I guess the rust indicated a seal failure, water savaging the grease and contributing to some major wear.  It was a bummer, but I can live with that.  This time.  And as @TermiPeteNZ has pointed out, it's an exclusion under my Extreme policy that they can reasonably play.

Edited May 2, 2019 by Olaf

[Eagle 1676]

Sucks as it sounds like a situation where some missed damaged rack boots\neglected them for too long, now you are paying for that down the line. At the same time knowing BMW im sure active steering is good at actively breaking also.

[Olaf 3340]

3 minutes ago, Eagle said:

Sucks as it sounds like a situation where some missed damaged rack boots\neglected them for too long, now you are paying for that down the line. 

Thanks, and yes, I no longer use that workshop.  I don't know what specifically was damaged, but it wasn't for want of me asking them to investigate it over the previous 21 months. 

 

[TermiPeteNZ 1319]

12 hours ago, Olaf said:

Thanks, and yes, I no longer use that workshop.  I don't know what specifically was damaged, but it wasn't for want of me asking them to investigate it over the previous 21 months. 

 

The reason I've started to use Auto38 is simply the level of experience, care and passion that Jon brings to working on Bimmers. Difference between a craftsman and people doing a job ...

[GorGasm 563]

22 hours ago, TermiPeteNZ said:

 

• Repairs necessitated by the failure of any plastic components due to gradual deterioration and any resulting damage

?

So basically everything in a newer BMW then?

[Olaf 3340]

time for some updates.  

19 August 2019.  175176kms

1.  Replacement rims painted and installed with new rubber.  

Sadly RE003 not available in niu zild in 275/35R18, so I've gone with Hankook Ventus S1 Noble 2 (H452).  They were pretty well-reviewed.  This was not a completely logical move, but the right rims came up and I wanted to try the staggered layout.  I'd certainly gotten my money's worth from the RE003's.  I usually replace tyres at 3 or 4mm tread remaining, slowed myself down while I dicked around with getting the new rims sorted.

 Jon at Auto 38 did a superb job of mounting the tyres.  35 series rubber certainly demands modern machinery.  This is not your Dad's 185SR14 from the 80's.  I'm still bedding them in, and getting rid of the mould release agent from the tyres.  I'll sort out glamour pics in a week or two.

 

28 August 2019.  175285kms

2.  Battery replacement and coding.

Battery went flat after driving to Porirua and returning to Spotlight with my family,   I'd had a battery warning light earlier in the week.  Left the car at home for a couple of days, it started fine on Saturday.  Shopped a little in Porirua.  Battery died in the Spotlight carpark in Kaiwharawhara; my son and I remained in the car for ten minutes, key off.  When I went to start it, it was pooched.  AA Battery callout, got it started easily, inconslusive test (no sh*t sherlock, left your booster battery connected while running a battery test?), recommended a full re-charge then re-test.  I asked to buy a new battery (this one  has given me plenty of trouble over the years, going flat at the most inpoortune times), we argued about AGM (he said no, has to be 2010 or later, then his book said 2005 or later, and I knew this to be wrong), and couldn't sell me one as he didn't have DIN88 on board.  
I researched replacements.  Yes Cinderella, you may have an AGM battery for a 2004 545i; you can expect a 950CCA 110Ah battery of large dimensions.  

Took the car round to Auto38 on Tuesday morning to discuss options and do a little measuring.  It didn't restart.  Checked out coding, found the following:

Jon ordered a suitable replacement and had it coded up correctly completing the battery registration procedure.  It now starts like a champ!

If you're reading this and wondering what to do, there's plenty of info on RealOEM, in particular, some useful notes on installation. 

Here's some physical dimensions - you can fit quite a big unit in there:

Terminal Type	T1
Length (mm)	393
Width (mm)	175
Height (mm)	190

 

More photos later.

We fitted a Koba SA59520 95AH (20HR), 850A (EN), 180MIN (RC)

 

Edited November 6, 2020 by Olaf

[GorGasm 563]

Heh, I had fun doing mine as well.  Turns out my battery was probably still OK and it was my alternator voltage regulator that was poked.

I replaced my battery with a 100AH non AGM battery (possibly din88?) and recoded the car to non AGM, saved $200 vs an AGM battery.

 

Anyway, keep up the good work.

Edited August 28, 2019 by GorGasm

[Olaf 3340]

Yep, DIN88/DIN88L is the physical spec.  I didn’t mind paying extra for AGM.  There were many, many options; many easily eliminated on basis of low power (CCA) low capacity (Ah), low warranty.  In the end, I thought it better to find a solution with high-ish CCA, high-ish Ah, and backed by recommendation from Auto38.  I was asking them to supply and fit and code; it’s unreasonable to ask them to source something the haven’t a relationship with.

The size thing is useful as an indicator; most of the lower-power and lower capacity batteries seem to be shorter in height (170mm), or length (~350mm).  Less space, less plate surface and electrolyte I guess.

in the USA it’s easy to get a 950CCA 110Ah battery.

Edited August 29, 2019 by Olaf

[Olaf 3340]

19 September 2019.  175yyykms

1.  Headlight hazing treated.  Wellingtonians should contact @Autoglym for this (professional) treatment.  I'd refinished lamp lenses before, wanted this sorted and knew Barry could provide an excellent service. 

"before and after science" (spot the music reference - 5 pts to whomever names it without google etc)

RH Before

 

RH After 

 

LH Before

 

LH After.  Magic!

With thanks to @Autoglym for the before and after photos!

2.  Steering Wheel refurbished.  Wellingtonians should contact Andrew at Fibrenew.  My steering wheel was a little tired, needed more TLC than I could provide.  It's come up feeling and looking superb!

 

3.  WoF passed with no advisories. Another year secured.

Now for a wash and polish, ahead of the Gentle Annie trip.

 

Edited September 20, 2019 by Olaf
photos & replaced HEIC with JPG

[zero 1162]

What are your thoughts on the Hankooks over the re003's?

[Olaf 3340]

On 9/20/2019 at 5:05 PM, zero said:

What are your thoughts on the Hankooks over the re003's?

I've barely driven them beyond Wellington.  Initial impressions:

• Softer sidewalls (at same pressure) providing a more comfortable ride.  
• Amazing grip at the back (275 vs 245); the extra drive can provoke understeer in some circumstances (I don't think 1/2" narrower front rims help - EDIT: WRONG, they are 8.5's on front) - EDIT - nope, it's actually 8J and 9J.
• Quieter than the RE003's
• Plenty of grip overall
• PS:  turn-in not quite as sharp. (close, but no cigar).

Haven't pushed them yet, nor driven them in very heavy rain on open road.  Overall, pretty favourable.  Broadly equivalent to each other, with minor strengths/weaknesses opposing.

If Bridgestone did RE003 in 275/35R18 [EDIT: in NZ] they'd have gone straight on.

Update in a couple of weeks.

Edited December 3, 2020 by Olaf
PS:  turn-in not quite as sharp.

[TermiPeteNZ 1319]

How's about regular images dude?

  

Steering wheel looks good  

[Olaf 3340]

7 hours ago, TermiPeteNZ said:

How's about regular images dude?

  

Steering wheel looks good  

Sorry!  I'm trying to figure out how to convert then; they came from Barry's iPhone.  HEIC is beyond the version of Lr on my laptop... will try tomorrow.

EDIT:  sorted.  Made a Quick Action script using automator... https://www.howtogeek.com/398927/how-to-convert-heic-images-to-jpg-on-a-mac-the-easy-way/ 

Edited September 20, 2019 by Olaf
sorted!

[TermiPeteNZ 1319]

Great result on the lights!!!