2001-2004 X5 - opinions wanted

[Olaf 3317]

The ML is basically sh*t, though.  Not Mercedes most shining moment!

If you actually need to be offroading - rather than driving across muddy fields - you'll be wanting a Land Cruiser, a Pajero, Disco, Range Rover, Patrol.  Nothing comes cheap - they all have maintenace risk/headaches.  Well apart from the Land Cruiser, which instead has high entry price.  Oh, the Suzukis are excellent if you're not needing to carry much.

[Olaf 3317]

1 minute ago, Olaf said:

The ML is basically sh*t, though.  Not Mercedes most shining moment!

mind you, how bad could it be? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/mercedesbenz/auction-1341579811.htm

[gjm 3258]

2 hours ago, Olaf said:

mind you, how bad could it be? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/mercedesbenz/auction-1341579811.htm

They're not all that hard to work on. Ensure the mechanicals are all good and the body isn't falling off, and you're sweet. (And the engine wiring loom...)
Never going to be a G-Wagen with it's cross-axle diff locks, but it'd be capable.
And it's cheaper than a Scooby Doo.

[BrokeMyWallet 10]

Well I ended up with a 4.8is. It's had most of the "known problems" sorted - valve stem seals, new radiator etc at a fairly substantial cost to the previous owner. Condition was good inside and out (it'd been taken care of) so decided to pull the trigger. Only a few grand more than the "base" model 4.4 (which is a great ride in and of itself) so I figured why not? 

Thanks for all the opinions, much appreciated. Now if only this thing had bluetooth it'd be perfect... I'm reluctant to remove the factory unit since its responsible for the trip computer etc. I have read you can retrofit a newer "ULF" into this car and then you should be able to simply pair your phone and off you go - anyone know anything about this? These "ULF" modules seem to be quite plentiful on ebay.

Edited June 15, 2017 by bung206

[TermiPeteNZ 1318]

Nice!!! 4.8is is the pick of the bunch - and I do like the body coloured trim they have Chuck a pic or two up ? 

Here's my beasty...

Edited June 15, 2017 by TermiPeteNZ
Added pic

[lord_jagganath 421]

I wonder if one could put in a Dynavin unit into one of those? 

[BrokeMyWallet 10]

I've seen the "Eonon" units are quite popular. At around 350 USD + shipping it's not exactly cheap. I'd much rather prefer a branded unit with Apple CarPlay / Android Auto. 

[BrokeMyWallet 10]

So I've done a few long trips with it already - averaging 10-11 km/100L so that's not TOO insane. The only thing that really bugs me is there is no BT, just AM/FM. Additionally it looks like there is some issue with the "curb monitor auto mirror tilt" - sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes it will tilt down properly and when I return to "D" it won't tilt back up. (Yes I've verified the mirror switch is in the correct position). I wonder what is the deal with this? I guess it's no biggie. Everything else works great.

I priced up a replacement stereo since I couldn't handle listening to FM all the time and it looks like parts alone will be close to $300 (head unit, mounting kit, wiring harnesses, steering wheel controls adapter). But then I found this: http://gromaudio.com/store/all-bmwt.html - seems to do exactly what I want, and cheaper than a ULF upgrade from bimmernav (which was close to 1k usd almost).

[lord_jagganath 421]

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/accessories/auction-1347604863.htm 

or if you don't mind a little DIY.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/electrics/auction-1349714256.htm 

But if you like the OE look, nothing like a BT box. 

[Olaf 3317]

On e46 the auto-dipping Kerr mirror for reverse doesn't work if you've left the adjustment switched to the left mirror.

surely you have CD and CD changer??

[BrokeMyWallet 10]

The auto-tilt mirror works, it just works unreliably. I am aware that the switch must be to the right for auto tilt to work. When I put the car in "R" one of two things will happen. 1 - The mirror will tilt all the way down or 2 - the mirror tilts part way down and stops. When I put it back in D, one of three things will happen - 1 the mirror moves back to its normal state (rare), 2 it will move part way and simply give up (likely) or 3 - it will not move at all (almost certain). No matter the case I am always able to use the power adjust controls in the drivers door and put it back to where it was. Doesn't feel like a mechanical problem since the mirror tilts freely when manually adjusting - just won't play ball when its time to do it automatically.

I do have CDs  but its just so damn inconvenient. The Dynavins are nice, I read the build quality & functionality of those is far superior to the third party clones but at close to $1000 + fitting - that's almost 1/10 the value of the car. I'm not sure if that's worth it. Still undecided at this stage what to do. I think the most cost effective + versatile solution is to get a single DIN kit and fit a mid range JVC or something with a reversing camera. That way if I decide to sell the car (haven't even decided if I want to keep it long term at this stage) I can remove it and put it into the next car.

[NZ BMW 368]

I think there are a bunch of solutions where you replace the CD changer with a Bluetooth or USB input that you can run things off. 

[martyyyn 102]

For our e39 I did a combination of this Aux In for $2.50 and this E39 radio diagram to create my own aux-in cable which replaced the CD changer plug into the 'head unit'. I then bought a Kinivo BTC 450 with a Spigen Magnetic Mount and it worked flawlessly. Everything was hidden away with only the Spigen giving it away. I had another link showing the resisters and capacitors but I can't find it now. Think I spent about 80c at Jaycar for it all.

The e34 original head unit has aux-in so I just have the Kinivo but the X5 came with a Dension Gateway kit costings $$$'s and I hate it. Regularly fails to connect when getting into the car, wont connect to my wife's Nexus5 at all and requires a number of buttons to be pressed to play music. 

When I get around to it, I'm going to rip it out and replace it with the Kinivo.

[BrokeMyWallet 10]

That could work - pretty creative solution there. But I suppose you don't get the ability to answer phone calls nor switch tracks etc with the steering wheel buttons? After being spoiled by my 135 that has all this I think I might just have to bite the bullet and go with one of the more pricey solutions. 

Also I think something with a rear view camera could enhance the resale value should I decide that the car isn't for me. 

[BrokeMyWallet 10]

Hmm, it looks like my car definitely has bluetooth of some sort. The car did originally come with a built-in car phone (Cordless) and it appears it connects back to the car using this bluetooth module. Is it possible to pair say, an iPhone to the car to play back music etc?

I believe this is the bluetooth "ULF" but when I search the model # I can't really find it on any of the well-known sites that list the bluteooth ULF model numbers (Apparently the earlier ones are quite problematic) - 84.11 6946011-01

[lord_jagganath 421]

a few accounts after a quick search make it to be quite a mission to get it to work. nonetheless, I wish you luck, apparently the car is in pairing mode the first 30 seconds of turning the ignition switch.

[Gabe79 410]

Check this page out about ULF models:

 

www.bimmernav.com/ulfchanges.html

[BrokeMyWallet 10]

I will try the 30 seconds thing... there is NOTHING in the manual about how to pair Bluetooth.... go figure. 

Gabe79, that is the page I'm referring to. I can't find my ULF part number on that list at all. My ULF PN is 8411694601101 - no such thing on that page. Only part # starting with 8421 XXX and 8410 XXX - no 8411 like mine.

Edit: 30 seconds thing not working. I also found instructions saying if if you press the button with the speaking face for 6 seconds with the ignition turned off, then put the key into position 2 (i.e. 1 before starting the engine) then it will become discoverable. I managed to get it to show up (it showed BMWXXXX (the last 5 digits of VIN) but when I tried to pair it asked for passkey which I didn't have. I then went digging in the boot and removed the bluetooth module and I had to flip it over to get the PIN. After re-assembling everything, I can no longer get it to show up on my phone when I go to add bluetooth devices.

Edited June 19, 2017 by bung206

[SRacin 44]

@bung206 Did you ever get the bluetooth to work?   Also is that your one for sale on Trademe?

[TermiPeteNZ 1318]

So @BrokeMyWallet and @SRacin how are your E53 X5s going a year later? This is what I'd done a year ago...

• repair ABS unit
• fix ABS pump bracket and pressure sensor (this was all due to the 'brake light trifecta')
• replace thermostat
• fix instrument cluster (dead pixels)
• replace radiator and hoses
• replace 2 x window regulators
• replace both rocker cover gaskets
• replace trans main oil seal
• replace both front lower brake reaction rod arms
• new key (they use a capacitor not batteries - and die eventually)
• plus regular servicing stuff including 2 large front tyres!

And 15 months on have done these items (inc. 3 additional MBI claims)...

• Replace all discs, calipers and pads
• Replace 2 x front axle assemblies
  replace left lower suspension arm
• replace 1 x air shock 
• replace valve cover gasket
• replace ABS ECU (failed after repair)

Along with 8 new spark plugs and 2 rear tyres, along with some cosmetic:

• Fixed 2 kerbed wheels (Wheel Magician)
• Leather restoration on steering wheel, armrest, front seats (FibreNew)

Pete

[dirtydoogle 383]

Mine blew the drivers park light bulb and a low beam bulb, had a regulator to window clip fail, cost nothing to sort that. Coming up to a year and 20,000km ownership. Currently at 259km. Will be needing to do rear control arm bushes eventually. 

My work e53 is now at 430km and has had a battery replaced in the last year, has covered approx 80,000km last year

[kiwi535 538]

re the off road ability of an x5...the main limitation to any off road vehicle to real off roading is tyres and ground clearnace.Wheel articulation is important but less important as most modern vehicles have traction control of sorts.As i am seriously lookig at changig 4wds at the moment i actually drove a proper 70 series landcruiser wagon.I just couldnt live with one.Bear in mind they are 80k and the rear suspension is terrible.

If you are taling about a track or partly formed road an x5 will easily do it.If you want to traverse mud/grass etc you need decent tyres and then the wheel size comes into play.If you are talking realy uneven stuff or steep climbs etc then you need low range and maybe a lift.I know of a pajero for sale very soon

[SRacin 44]

Hi,

@TermiPeteNZ it seems to be a continually battle.  In comparison I love my 540iS e34, it is so comparatively reliable!  Its about 1 year in now and about 10,000'ks.  Has been a great tow machine and seen several ski trips up the mountains.  Feel like I have got the bottom of most of the issues and I have address all the typical fault areas, but none the less not sure how much longer my affair with the X5 will last, someone will get a will maintained X5 when I do get round to selling it with all the suspension overhaul I have done.  Thanks to FCP Euro taking my money.

Can you share details of the key?  I need a spare and haven't got round to that yet.  I have the following notes and didnt pull the trigger as was too expensive at the time

"BMW number of current key 6955749.  CHCH bmw supersedes to 6955749.  $444 inc ex Germany. "

I am still chasing a mild vibration on acceleration, which is very annoying more than anything else.  I think the follow list is complete off the top of my head without going through stacks of invoices.

Cheers

Logan

 

 

Complete

• Front Control Arms
• Front Tie Rod Assemblies
• Front Ball Joint Front Upper
• Front Thrust Bushes
• Front Control Arms
• All the Idlers, pulleys and belts
• Front Flex joint
• Few interior bits
• Android Head unit fitment, dash-cam etc etc
• Stealth sub and amp
• Buy Chains
• Puncture repairs x2
• New bonnet emblem
• Front window clips (that hold in rail)
• Fix power steer reservoir leak
• Wheel Alignment(s)
• New Battery
• Front Passengers door handle assembly (not do not buy cheap ebay kits, they are terrible and spend more time filling back flashing on the castings rather than just fitting it)
• Boot liner and new mats

WIP (have parts, to be fitted)

• Rear Guide Link Upper
• Rear Control Arms
• Integral Link
• BMW Ball Joint Rear (In Rear Wheel Carrier)
• BMW Door Handle Carrier Front Right

To Do

• Spare Key
• Oil Service
• Front Tyres at some stage
• Fix hazard switches (typical broken plastic)
• Panorama roof rail clips
• Find minor vibration

[Allanw 1071]

1 hour ago, SRacin said:

BMW number of current key 6955749.  CHCH bmw supersedes to 6955749.  $444 inc ex Germany. "

 

Talk to Paul at Milland.co.nz

He got my BMW key from Germany for my E39 for more than $100 cheaper than an NZ dealer at the time (probably 5 or 6 years ago). Plus He generally knows what I'm talking about - The dealers usually try to sell me the wrong part when I have phoned them - one was the new drivers door lock insert: Dealer kept saying they had to order it colour coded, and I kept explaining it had no paint on it... Paul just ordered it, and it was correct!

[BrokeMyWallet 10]

@TermiPeteNZ not good, I thought you guys were exaggerating about the reliability issues but I think I've had just about every "common fault" happen to me on this thing. Luckily the most expensive and time consuming one (valve seals) were completed by previous owner. Since then I have had:

- Coolant leak - radiator cracked. Replaced it. Once I replaced the radiator, some o-ring let go near the temperature sensor on the bottom right hand side of the radiator (driver side). From what I can see the rest of the cooling system has been done already (hoses, coolant res etc)

- One-way check valve failed between the vacuum pump and the brake booster. Caused brake booster failure from contamination of the diaphragm/seals etc. Had to take the whole thing apart, replace the booster, new fluid. Also replaced the master while I was there. while I was at it I replaced the check valve, took apart the vac pump and replaced both the o-rings with VITON gaskets and not the cheap shite BUNA-N gaskets. Still need to bleed the brakes properly, probably introduced a ton of air into the system. Can anyone give me a hand with this? I've bled a few times but had NO luck (I have working ISTA-D and tried cycling the pump several times with my pressure bleeder attached).

- Power steering reservoir leak - replaced the res itself + the shorter of the two hoses, MAN that thing was a bitch to get off without the right tools.

Once I solved all that I noticed a puddle of coolant under the car. Opened it all back up again, it's leaking from the weep hole. I am waiting on parts (ordered the Uro parts expanding coolant kit). Waiting on parts.

Hopefully this takes care of the "common" issues with the X5 - just in time for summer (almost).

Other minor sh*t I need to solve
- Rear driver side window very temperamental
- Minor oil leak from oil press sensor and alternator gasket bracket.

Photo of the X5 in its natural environment attached ?