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Jacko

The 130i Thread

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3 minutes ago, Harper said:

Funnily enough I've thought about buying one of these and N52B30+manual swapping to have an NA 1 series coupe.

If I ever crash my 130i, my dream is to buy 1 series coupe with seized engine and do an engine+manual swap. 

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They are already N52B30, and the only difference unlike the other detuned N52B30s is the DME flash, have 3 stage DISA etc etc. Flash 130i DME and its full beans N52. 

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23 minutes ago, Jacko said:

They are already N52B30, and the only difference unlike the other detuned N52B30s is the DME flash, have 3 stage DISA etc etc. Flash 130i DME and its full beans N52. 

Wow I didn't know that, hadn't looked that closely tbf. 

That makes these an even more appealing car. Wonder why they didn't just come like that from factory.

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1 minute ago, Harper said:

Wow I didn't know that, hadn't looked that closely tbf. 

That makes these an even more appealing car. Wonder why they didn't just come like that from factory.

BMW did heaps of fishy stuff like that to ensure market separation between the models. 

If you look at the raw performance numbers of stock vehicles, an E82 130i would not be much slower than a 135i which was much more expensive on the dealers lot for example, so they detuned it. 130i got the full beans tune so it had more power than its competition, R32 golf, no need for a 125 E87 as there wasnt competition for it. 

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I see the kiwi car life guy has got another manual 130i. Can't stay away from them. 

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Yeah i assume it's a flipper as he has a dealers lic now

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Could well be.  Mentions he got it for $6K.  Not bad.

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He said in the comments that it's going to his mate

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Swapping the clutch this weekend.
Got caught out by the T60 flywheel bolts of which I didn't have a key for.  Had to buy one at 5:15pm on a Sat.

Dual mass has a ton of play.  In every direction.
Self adjusting clutch had nothing left to give.

 

Flywheel_Play.gif

Edited by Driftit
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10 hours ago, Driftit said:

Dual mass has a ton of play.  In every direction.
Self adjusting clutch had nothing left to give.

How many ks has your car done? 

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12 minutes ago, Danch said:

How many ks has your car done? 

207. And it looks like the original clutch.
Rear main was leaking but not as bad as I thought.
Flywheel had play in every direction.

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KiwiRail video shows train smashing into car on rail crossing in North Island | Stuff

Nice 130i got smoked by a train last year down the road from my work.
Took out all our crossing monitoring equipment too (the white boxes on the right).
Girl was apparently on her phone.

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Explains why they didn't see the flashing lights,  hear the alarm bells,  or see the honking great freight train bearing down on them...

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16 hours ago, Driftit said:

207. And it looks like the original clutch.
Rear main was leaking but not as bad as I thought.
Flywheel had play in every direction.

Yeah ok. This is why I find it odd that my car's clutch is slipping at 130k..

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41 minutes ago, Danch said:

Couple minor issues lol.

Bet one is an oil leak requiring either subframe dropped for oil pan gasket or valve cover off for gasket/vvt motor gasket. 

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5 hours ago, NZ_InFerno said:

Couple minor issues lol.

Bet one is an oil leak requiring either subframe dropped for oil pan gasket or valve cover off for gasket/vvt motor gasket. 

You're guessed it. How much does it cost for an oil pan gasket replacement? 300?

This is what it says on TM:

Recent work

Spark plugs an coils.

Oil filter housing seal

New radiator 

Vanos

New shocks all round

Back breaks

Water pump an thermostat done 40km ago along with the rocket cover.

New paint on doors an boot.

Will throw in new clutch kit(parts)

 

Cons

 screen not working an sagging headliner.minor oil pan leak

 

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1 minute ago, Danch said:

You're guessed it. How much does it cost for an oil pan gasket replacement? 300?

 

The actual gasket doesn't cost that much. The labour cost to drop the subframe and replace the gasket is idk 4-5 hours @ hourly rate

Probably a 1k job 

And should do engine mounts while you're in there 

 

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Anyone here retrofitted the 135i brakes on and needed to change the master cylinder?

I have just fitted the 135i brakes to my E81 and noticed the stock master is only a 23/22mm when the 135i uses a 25/22mm.

Also, is it really necessary to code in the brakes? What does it do exactly. I assume just changes settings for the DSC? I haven't got around to the whole coding side of things but want to get in to it. 

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Why would you change the master cylinder? Just bolt the brakes on (:)

Coding it - Yes and no, coding it improves the feel and changes the brake bias (and stability control) to deal with the pimp disks. BMW did the work to make it work right, might as well do it (takes 3 min). You can drive it around fine without coding however. 

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45 minutes ago, Jacko said:

Why would you change the master cylinder? Just bolt the brakes on (:)

Coding it - Yes and no, coding it improves the feel and changes the brake bias (and stability control) to deal with the pimp disks. BMW did the work to make it work right, might as well do it (takes 3 min). You can drive it around fine without coding however. 

To get the correct bias and pedal feel but yeah just wondering if its worth it and if others have done the same.

It seems the master's could have either been 23/22 or 25/22mm as real oem shows multiple part numbers that can cross refeerence up to 135i's or down to 116i's etc. 130i's could have got either and mine happens to be the 23/22mm.

I will code them as soon as I'm set up to do it.

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Finally took the 130 for a run with it's new single mass flywheel conversion.  That is one heavy gearbox to lift in on your own!
I also removed the soft valve thing (#13) .  Took forever to bleed the system.  Even with a power bleeder.  In the end the save was removing the slave and bleeding it whilst the bleed nip was at the top then reinstalling it.  If you are using a power bleeder do not touch the clutch pedal at all.

I'm still running the clutch in but it feels great.  Good pedal feedback and clutch engagement is obvious.
It is a lot sharper than the DM flywheel and fully wound out auto adjusting clutch I removed.

I'm happy with it.  Will get this car on the track soon.

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Yeah its a bitch to get back in yourself, did you do it with the engine in? 

I smashed the sh*t out of my knuckles winding up 5 feet of extensions and universal joints getting the upper bolts on the gearbox...

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3 hours ago, Driftit said:

In the end the save was removing the slave and bleeding it whilst the bleed nip was at the top then reinstalling it.  If you are using a power bleeder do not touch the clutch pedal at all.

Preach! Stupidly did that once, was holding the slave in my hand whilst a mate was pumping the pedal. Don't even think a power bleeder was involved at the time. The rod suddenly shot out with a vengeance :D Luckily wasn't aimed at anything important and managed to reassemble it but lesson learned...

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1 hour ago, Jacko said:

Yeah its a bitch to get back in yourself, did you do it with the engine in? 

I smashed the sh*t out of my knuckles winding up 5 feet of extensions and universal joints getting the upper bolts on the gearbox...

Yup. I did the same with the extensions. I tilted the engine back as far as possible. But those top two bolts are absolutely the worst I've dealt with on any cars gearbox. Even with the hoist it was still not enjoyable.

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