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Jacko

The 130i Thread

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3 hours ago, Driftit said:

 

Also something I have not changed on this car is the fuel filter.  Is it located under the car like an E46 or is it part of the float assembly?

Its In the tank, not very easy to change

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15 hours ago, NZ_InFerno said:

Definitely priced it to sell, considering the kms and condition. 

Gives a good market price point for mine considering how similar they are 😂

I must underprice my cars as they always sell to the first person who views... My cars are always pretty mint and somewhat upgraded which makes them attractive too...I dont like them to hang around once I make my mind up to sell.

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Repco has TRW Brake rotors for a stock 130i very cheap in their clearance sale. I would consider them OEM "plus" quality compared to other stock rotors you can find online. 

This is what I ended up ordering after comparing to others on rockauto and fcpeuro a week or so ago. They're painted on the venting edge and front bolting part so quite nice quality. Now they're another 30% off so can get all 4 rotors for $120 which is a pretty sweet deal. Haven't put them on the car yet so hope they fit haha

The fun will be finding a store who has them in stock, Marshlands in Chch has the front rotors :)

https://www.repco.co.nz/en/parts-service/braking/brake-rotors/trw-brake-rotor-330mm-x-22-4-min-df4460s/p/A1166629

https://www.repco.co.nz/en/parts-service/braking/brake-rotors/trw-brake-rotor-300mm-x-18-4-min-df4802s/p/A1253641

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I wanted TRW Ultra Ceramics from FCPEuro but had trouble finding front brake pads with the brake pad parts codes on RealOEM. I read online that E46 M3 pads were the same so I could order those but I wasn't sure if they'd fit. 

I looked on Rockauto which had pads that fitted, I ordered some Centric Posi-quiet Ceramic pads which seem to be good quality street pads. They were pretty cheap so if they turn up and aren't satisfactory I'll get the TRWs at some point in the future. 

I have absolutely no idea what rotors/pads are on the car atm, but the braking performance is great! Bit dusty though. There has been a bit of judder under heavy braking since I purchased the car a couple of years ago but there's plenty of life in the rotors and pads so it hasn't been something I've needed or wanted to replace with urgency. I figured if the calipers are fine, I'll just grab some OE spec or better discs and pads(trying out ceramic for the dust) to fix the judder.  If we take the calipers off and they're bad then I'll rebuild them. Wasn't meant to be ordering more parts right now but couldn't pass up the rotor deal and then you have to order pads, brake sensors, screws etc lol

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52 minutes ago, NZ_InFerno said:

...I have absolutely no idea what rotors/pads are on the car atm, but the braking performance is great!...

Probably stock Textar, really good pads for the street, amazing initial bite and feel, lots and lots of dust! Quite, kind on rotors but entirely inappropriate for the track. 

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49 minutes ago, M3AN said:

Probably stock Textar, really good pads for the street, amazing initial bite and feel, lots and lots of dust! Quite, kind on rotors but entirely inappropriate for the track. 

Possibly, will see when they come off. I've had zero complaints about any of the 130is that I've owned and their braking performance. It's really good. 

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Had some people in the car today, lowered the passenger right hand rear window - crunch. Loud crunch, window won’t come back up at all. When you try to get it up, more crunching. 
 

ended up getting it up by hand (as I’m in the coromandel, and have a 3 hour drive back to aucks tomorrow), but the window is just held up with a ton of tape. Any ideas what it is? Motor issue, regulator? 

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2 hours ago, HJ130i said:

Had some people in the car today, lowered the passenger right hand rear window - crunch. Loud crunch, window won’t come back up at all. When you try to get it up, more crunching. 
 

ended up getting it up by hand (as I’m in the coromandel, and have a 3 hour drive back to aucks tomorrow), but the window is just held up with a ton of tape. Any ideas what it is? Motor issue, regulator? 

If you can hear the motor trying to work when trying to lift/operate the window from the button then likely just the regulator.

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11 hours ago, Ghost Chip said:

If you can hear the motor trying to work when trying to lift/operate the window from the button then likely just the regulator.

Thinking the same thing. Guess I’ll take the door apart next weekend and whack a new regulator in. 

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Found my intermittent misfire this morning on the way back from Napier.

After small stutters for a good hour I had zero codes.

Then not far from home the check light came on and I lost a cylinder.

I had thought the entire time that it felt like a coil pack starting to die.  But as I had new ones I thought it must be something else.

Was number 5.  Swapped it to one of my good old ones and the problem seems to have been solved.  So I don't recommend these coils.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bavarian-autosport-parts/bmw-high-performance-ignition-coil-single-coil/5005~bav/

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Took the 130 out last few days, as it wasn't raining, and totally forgot I hadn't put the cover back on airbox..

Can confirm, It sounds f**ken tits with no lid :D The howl in middle of rev range is addictive.

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@M3AN

Or anyone else! 

I'm just getting into it with my new paddles from Nelson Racing Wheel. I've hit a wall with the 'optional' re-wiring part. I've managed to pop open the connector but can't get the cables out 😬

I've tried light to medium tugging but no luck and I'm afraid of damaging the wires. Any tips?

 

I've attached a screenshot from the installation instructions. I'm at the middle picture. No luck yet getting to the 3rd one! 

Screenshot_20210807_114751.jpg

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8 minutes ago, IainR said:

@M3AN

Or anyone else! 

I can't recall the connectors precisely but don't they have a little latch arm you push down inside the actual plug to allow the connector to slip out?

In the first picture above you can see the bare metal metal connectors (inside the plug), if you use the end of a paper clip (or needle if a paper clip is too large) can you depress the bare metal bit closest to the fingers in that pic, which is acting as a latch (in my recollection) which in turn releases the whole thing to slide out?

IIRC it's a pretty common connector type so if you've used one before hopefully you'll get my explanation. If you're sure it's not that type then I can have another think! 

 

Edited by M3AN

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And since you're there @IainR, here's the message I sent them about their incorrect instructions when I installed mine, I just checked and it doesn't look like they've update them... 🙄

Quote

In this document: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cafxqdvwEhZP-LM4R4bxbrUDhNC_nd59/view "NRW DIY 6AT PRELCI INSTALL BOTH A AND B TYPES" on the "Rewire DIY" page you say to relocate the top cable on the RIGHT hand side and this is not accurate. You do NOT relocate ANY wires on the right hand side because that side is ALREADY pull to upshift. You don't need to do anything on the right side although it might be a good idea to disconnect the push to downshift wire (as you suggest). You just don't swap any wires over. If somebody follows your instructions they'll end up with pull to downshift on the right AND left hand side and no way to upshift. They might be upset if they only discover this after reinstalling everything.

 

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@IainR - Check out this video:

 

Edited by M3AN

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@M3AN

Thanks! My gf actually worked it out for me. I knew I'd need her help at some point 🤣

 

Cheers for note about changing wires. Seems daft that an issue has been highlighted but they haven't acknowledged it..... 

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They're in! 

Cheers for your help @M3AN

The look is so much nicer than standard. I think that's enough to justify the change. I'll also be more inclined to actually use these over the weird original setup. 

I definitely took more than the suggested '30-45min'. Part of that was a trip to bunnings to get smaller pliers 🙄. The rest of the time was me figuring things out and watching YouTube videos

Screenshot_20210807_173138.jpg

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11 minutes ago, IainR said:

They're in! 

Cheers for your help @M3AN

The look is so much nicer than standard. I think that's enough to justify the change. I'll also be more inclined to actually use these over the weird original setup. 

Nice one, I'm sure you'll enjoy, I never use the shift stick to change gears any more, only to put it in sport mode. 👍

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The only one on TM without Xenons sure, but 99% of NZ new came without them... although most came with PDC and this has it F+R... probably a gauge of how sh*t NZ drivers are (at parking and driving).

I suppose if you need PDC you probably don't drive much at night anyway... BMW NZ logic.

Edited by M3AN

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All the NZ news Ive seen are same spec as mine, same as the Aussie 130 spec. - All M sports/PDC/xenons/sh*t stereo/alarm/headlight washers. 

The odd balls are this one, and the oddball white one that was really early (2005) that was total poverty pack without M sport (but manual)

Edited by Jacko

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Headlight washers common on NZ new? Really?

I've seen very few NZ news with Xenons to be honest, I could probably say the same about headlight washers. Talk about getting the priorities wrong.

I've never seen an import without Xenons, that's usually how I first identify NZ new.

Edited by M3AN

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6 minutes ago, M3AN said:

Headlight washers common on NZ new? Really?

I've seen very few NZ news with Xenons to be honest, I could probably say the same about headlight washers. Talk about getting the priorities wrong.

I've never seen an import without Xenons, that's usually how I first identify NZ new.

Yeah they all do, think it was an option only with xenons though. Thats how you spot an import - No washers ;) The factory alarm also appears to rare outside of the oceania market cars. 

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@Jacko I believe we got EU spec cars here, which require headlight washers with Xenons. Alarm lowers your insurance premium in the UK (?mandatory) and I assume our spec is based on theirs. The other thing that the Japan market cars don't have is the VIN sticker on the driver's sill.

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