M3AN 4016 Report post Posted December 25, 2020 18 hours ago, Jacko said: Anyone out there in Auckland happen have a mandrel for wheel bearing kit that is 85mm ID? One in my kit is 82mm.. there are beers on offer. Nathan (@zero) possibly? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 1162 Report post Posted December 26, 2020 9 hours ago, M3AN said: Nathan (@zero) possibly? I checked mine last night and its 82mm id too 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted December 26, 2020 KBM hooked me up, legend. 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3258 Report post Posted December 30, 2020 A question for our Mercedes but relevant to other marques too. Many cars, as they get older, see under bonnet insulation either peel away, or dry out, flake, and fall on to the engine. Can't be fixed - buy new insulation and fit. So what adhesive is most appropriate? One suggestion is 3M 5200 which (as far as I can tell) is a marine adhesive. Any other recommendations? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted December 30, 2020 3M90 or 77 would be my guess, 90s probably overkill. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted December 30, 2020 I was going to suggest SIMSON 7003 or other glazing adhesive, built to take the heat 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NZ00Z3 187 Report post Posted December 31, 2020 I use Ados F38 High Temperature contact adhesive because it can withstand 176 degrees C for Z3 leather dash repairs. How hot will it be under the bonnet? Look at the your selected glue spec sheet to see its temp rating. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DreDurk 2 Report post Posted January 13, 2021 Needing advice!! Would anyone know the exact bushing for this arm. RH bushing. Needing to replace ASAP as it has worn out, just by physically moving it with my hand shows. The ride of this is not nice atm, rocks when entering reverse etc. What other bushings should I be looking at replacing if the RH bushing needs replacing ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted January 13, 2021 Easiest just to replace all the complete control arm, if that ones flogged the other will be too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DreDurk 2 Report post Posted January 13, 2021 24 minutes ago, Jacko said: Easiest just to replace all the complete control arm, if that ones flogged the other will be too. Control arms themselves or all bushings within the arms? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DreDurk 2 Report post Posted January 13, 2021 25 minutes ago, Jacko said: Easiest just to replace all the complete control arm, if that ones flogged the other will be too. Would u recommend poly bushings also? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted January 13, 2021 Control arm comes with bushings and the ball joint on the other end installed. If you want an upgrade, upgrading them to the M3 part is the way to go. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DreDurk 2 Report post Posted January 13, 2021 25 minutes ago, Jacko said: Easiest just to replace all the complete control arm, if that ones flogged the other will be too. Would u recommend poly bushings also? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted January 13, 2021 Not unless you're building a racecar or something as a toy for the weekends. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DreDurk 2 Report post Posted January 13, 2021 29 minutes ago, Jacko said: Control arm comes with bushings and the ball joint on the other end installed. If you want an upgrade, upgrading them to the M3 part is the way to go. I’m not looking to spend large amounts on new M3 arms, just decent bushings for a weekend drive. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted January 13, 2021 Hunt down the TRW part numbers for the M3 LCAs and look it up on amazon. They're cheap. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4016 Report post Posted January 29, 2021 I picked up a spare key fob for an E87 today, obviously the physical key doesn't unlock my car but can the electronic fob be reprogrammed to unlock/start my car? If so, how, is it a DIY? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Daniel 36 Report post Posted February 5, 2021 I was in reasonably urgent need of a radiator for my 330i as the old one was leaking and I need to get up to Hastings in the next few days. I ordered one from Silverdale which arrived overnight (normally would get a Behr ex US/Germany if I had more time). I found a local mechanic who had time to do it at very short notice. The mechanic seemed unsure of whether he had bled the system completely (due in part to the urgency of the job). I drove it around to where I needed to be, about 30-40 minutes of mixed driving. I had the menu up which showed temp readings fluctuating between 83 and 92 for the most part, at one point reaching 96 then dropping back to 91 in a short amount of time. Does that seem about right? From what I understand it should be somewhere between 92 and 97. Hoping someone can confirm the ideal running temp Hadn't used the menu before so can't say what it was pre-installation. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eagle 1662 Report post Posted February 5, 2021 Thats around what mine used to run at. Usually around low-mid 90's in most conditions if operating correctly, drops down into high 80's when giving it a work out. The thermostat is rated around 96 or 97 degrees iirc 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4016 Report post Posted February 5, 2021 1 hour ago, Daniel said: Does that seem about right? From what I understand it should be somewhere between 92 and 97. Hoping someone can confirm the ideal running temp That's fine, if it's not bled correctly it will hit 100*C and keep climbing until something bursts. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted February 17, 2021 Passengers rear door lock actuator has totally failed on the E91, it might be from the hit it took, but cant assed screwing with getting it sorted under insurance. The internal posts have snapped clean off, gears and levers flapping everywhere Out of curiosity has any tried any of the chinese replacement actuators? Theyre dirt cheap, but Im dubious... https://www.banggood.com/Rear-Left-Driver-Power-Door-Lock-Motor-Electric-Latch-Actuator-For-BMW-p-1366292.html?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cpc_organic&gmcCountry=NZ&utm_content=minha&utm_campaign=minha-nz-en-pc¤cy=NZD&cur_warehouse=CN&createTmp=1&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cpc_bgs&utm_content=haosen&utm_campaign=haosen-ssc-nz-en-backup-all-0115&ad_id=491700170368&gclid=Cj0KCQiA962BBhCzARIsAIpWEL090-mdfSwz8Ef-pq7OSea2h33o5fjfzXEHDqp0kiTcTKjPtkFuT1MaAh9UEALw_wcB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LemonHunter 583 Report post Posted February 17, 2021 17 hours ago, Jacko said: ...Out of curiosity has any tried any of the chinese replacement actuators? Theyre dirt cheap, but Im dubious... I'd suggest giving Pelican Parts a go, they have the same for US$93.25 and are a reputable supplier, complete with a 2 Year warranty on this part. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted March 19, 2021 On 2/17/2021 at 3:37 PM, Jacko said: Passengers rear door lock actuator has totally failed on the E91, it might be from the hit it took, but cant assed screwing with getting it sorted under insurance. The internal posts have snapped clean off, gears and levers flapping everywhere Out of curiosity has any tried any of the chinese replacement actuators? Theyre dirt cheap, but Im dubious... https://www.banggood.com/Rear-Left-Driver-Power-Door-Lock-Motor-Electric-Latch-Actuator-For-BMW-p-1366292.html?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cpc_organic&gmcCountry=NZ&utm_content=minha&utm_campaign=minha-nz-en-pc¤cy=NZD&cur_warehouse=CN&createTmp=1&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cpc_bgs&utm_content=haosen&utm_campaign=haosen-ssc-nz-en-backup-all-0115&ad_id=491700170368&gclid=Cj0KCQiA962BBhCzARIsAIpWEL090-mdfSwz8Ef-pq7OSea2h33o5fjfzXEHDqp0kiTcTKjPtkFuT1MaAh9UEALw_wcB Installed, works flawlessly, all the plastics etc are as good as OEM. Interesting its not a ripoff of the OEM part, theyve designed it from scratch... cant really complain at all. 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tcbaurpower 5 Report post Posted April 11, 2021 Hello all, does anyone know if you can source valve lash caps from somewhere in nz? While adjusting the M30 rocker clearance this weekend I found that the exhaust valves for cylinders 1and 2 have custom eccentric bushes. Based on some measurements this looks to have been done to resolve a 0.1 mm out of spec gap (0.4mm when spec is 0.3mm). I have replaced all eccentric bushes but can not use standard eccentrics with these out of spec valves. Otherwise will need to buy the caps from the US. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3258 Report post Posted June 3, 2021 Miss M's 116i. Auto trans fluid - it's the ZF 8HP45 box. I've read that these are very picky about fluid, and while BMW assert it's filled for life (hah!) it's time to change the filter (which means the entire sump) and fluid. I've used Penrite in many vehicles in the past without issues and their ATF BMV is "suitable for use where BMW 8322 0142516 is required". Any reason why this would be inappropriate? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
