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My ASC+T light (Posted Image) on the instrument cluster has magically appeared over night.

I hope its just a wheel speed sensor, but is there any other things that there are a chance it could be?

I'll give you a call in the morning Glenn to book it in for a scan. Thats if you can fit me in before Christmas.

Cheers

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Which sensor makes the "OVERHEAT" Light function on the check panel?

Is it the one directly underneath the fuel rail? I had to replace the one closest to the front to make the temprature gauge work.

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Which sensor makes the "OVERHEAT" Light function on the check panel?

Is it the one directly underneath the fuel rail? I had to replace the one closest to the front to make the temprature gauge work.

Its the sensor in the cat. The wiring comes in through the floor just behind the drivers seat. You can join the two wires and the check light will come on with ignition on and go out when started. We do this when we remove the cat & fit a dog

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Cheers, I wonder why it has stopped working all of a sudden. It use to work, and it's the same exaust...

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Cheers, I wonder why it has stopped working all of a sudden. It use to work, and it's the same exaust...

Bulb ?

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Bulb ?

I was meaning that, the light functioned properly before the engine swap (came on when key was on, then turned off), if it's the sensor for the cat, I must have broken something.

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I was meaning that, the light functioned properly before the engine swap (came on when key was on, then turned off), if it's the sensor for the cat, I must have broken something.

You may have damaged the sensor wiring or unplugged it when you removed the exhaust.

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The silver ECU shaped and sized module under the dash of a E30 on the LHS = ABS Computer does it not?

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The silver ECU shaped and sized module under the dash of a E30 on the LHS = ABS Computer does it not?

ABS is normaly in the boot & Auto trans in behind the glovebox. Picture ?? Part # ??

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My Transmission box is in the boot, car doesn't have ABS.

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Bosch 0265103004

I am sure it was a factory manual.

It did have a factory fitted alarm though which has been disconnected at some point in its life. There is another smaller silver box beside it. The ECU shaped box has the same plug as the ECU on the opposite side of the dash. Just want to know as have the dash out tidying things up and wondered what it was.

Batteries are charging on the camera <_<

Edited by Forrest

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Bosch 0265103004

I am sure it was a factory manual.

It did have a factory fitted alarm though which has been disconnected at some point in its life. There is another smaller silver box beside it. The ECU shaped box has the same plug as the ECU on the opposite side of the dash. Just want to know as have the dash out tidying things up and wondered what it was.

Batteries are charging on the camera <_<

was going to say cruise control computer but if it has the same plug as the real ECU then who knows. None of my E30s have had that.

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^ Had cruise control also which maybe the smaller silver box with a blue plug like the plugs on the back of the speedo.

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So I removed the parcel shelf a week or so ago and dyed it black. Reinstalling was easy apart from two very annoying pieces of trim, the two C pillar covers.

They came off alright, but I not able to get them to clip back in along the top (Along the window line).

Any tips from anyone who's done this before? I would greatly appreciate it as they're just flapping around and are completely ruining the vibe of my new badass parcel tray!

My ASC+T light (Posted Image) on the instrument cluster has magically appeared over night.

I hope its just a wheel speed sensor, but is there any other things that there are a chance it could be?

I'll give you a call in the morning Glenn to book it in for a scan. Thats if you can fit me in before Christmas.

Cheers

Just wanted to conclude my probs and thank those who helped!

Jase helped out with the C pillar covers. Appreciate it bro! Didn't get them on perfect but were a damn site better than how I got them on. Ever since Jase the gap has gotten bigger, I've pushed them on each morning but they just seem to be held out still. And of course seeing I don't have tints I can really notice the overhang through the back window.

So this afternoon I pulled them out and ripped off the stupid clips that are actually impossible to put on. Now they are sitting perfect, nearly better than originally. But thanks for your time and definitely good to catch up and see what a B28 has over a B23. A sh*t load more torque!

And a big thanks to Glenn for sorting out the ASC thing. Ended up being a clip broken off at the throttle body. Zipped tied temporarily over New Years. Will be calling you in the New year to get it replaced mate. Again appreciate your help.

Team McMillan continue to provide me with sh*t service. Headed there after Botany MW to get some clips (not related) and yet again was served (if you could call it that) by an arrogant woman who obviously was was to cool to talk to a 17 y/o. At least the 4th time its happened, different people, and have now lost all my business. Jerry Clayton seem to have a little more respect.

So my little rant and thanks!

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its strange you and others seem to have bad service in there.

Whenever i go in there and usually in singlet, shorts and bare feet i get served good as gold, the parts department chucked in a few extra round mesh clip things for me and Andrew from the service department was a top bloke in helping me get the right stereo code and gave me a few rego holders etc, and one of the other guys even texted me the radio code once they finally got the right one lol.

mayb try walking in with a wallet full of reciepts that looks fat or something ha

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Hi Guys,

A quick (probably silly) question.........

Mine is E36 323i 1/1996 coupe.

M52B25 = 170 BHP,

M50B25 (325i) = 192 BHP.

What tweeks do I do to get same power from my M52?

Yes, I could research for hours on the 'net, but if someone has all the instant answers, that would be great! :rolleyes:

Thanks, Chris.

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M52B25 = 170 BHP,

M50B25 (325i) = 192 BHP.

M52B28 = 192hp

Can't really compare M50. M50 has different throttle body and intake manifold. The main thing which strangles the whole system in the 323 is the exhaust. 323 is a single pipe all through. 325 and 328 is twin all through.

Start with exhaust. If you do M50 throttle body and intake you lose torque and gain top end power. Not really worth it. But if you get it remapped there's no loss at all.

Standard air box is fine. Don't touch that unless you're gonna do it properly. eg a simota CAI etc.

Sure theres something else but that pretty much it.

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M52B28 = 192hp

Can't really compare M50. M50 has different throttle body and intake manifold. The main thing which strangles the whole system in the 323 is the exhaust. 323 is a single pipe all through. 325 and 328 is twin all through.

Start with exhaust. If you do M50 throttle body and intake you lose torque and gain top end power. Not really worth it. But if you get it remapped there's no loss at all.

Standard air box is fine. Don't touch that unless you're gonna do it properly. eg a simota CAI etc.

Sure theres something else but that pretty much it.

Thank you, Nick,

Was aware of the exhaust; I have a 328i coupe exhaust lined up; it is twin but does join after the cats (smooth "Y" junction into larger pipe) then twin end muffler with the vacuum flapper. I presume you would just not bother with the flapper, and make it so it is open all the time?

Thanks for your response,

Chris

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Do 2 door recaros and 2 door standard e30 front seats have the same internals in the back rest?

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Instead of making another n00b thread I thought I would put this here:

m20 325i PFL

About 3 months ago my fan belt decided it was more fun sitting at the apex of the esses at Manfield than in my engine bay. Needed to drive the car home so threw a new fan belt in and drove home. Now have a ultra bad squeak on start up and when blipping on downshifts etc. Was there supposed to be a bearing or suchlike to replace at the same time/water pump bearing is gone? Have sprayed in the general area with WD40/stop belt squeak and the problem goes away for a short time then comes back which makes me think it is a bearing that needs replacing, or is it a matter of adjusting the tensioners/alignment off the alternator/water pump. Also for what it is worth, the fan belt is really really tight at the moment, to the point where there is next to no flex in it at all, don't know if that is a good or bad thing.

Any help is appreciated before I start taking things apart :rolleyes:

Edited by Forrest

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I used to get that, werid as would only happen at night time and stuff. One day it just got real bad. Figured out it was the alternator bushes were stuffed, which made the alternator turn-in as it was tensioned, which was misalignment the belt and makes it squeak.

So you may want to check the belt is tight enough, also that the alternator is sitting right when you tension it and not bending in.

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^ Cheers John. How hard are the alternator bushes to replace? Is that a dealer thing?

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