kevinator9 57 Report post Posted June 3, 2011 Hi Guys, Just wondering will an MTech1 spoiler bolt straight into the existing holes drilled into the boot lid from a standard spoiler? Thanks Andrew Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dubman 39 Report post Posted June 3, 2011 if its e30 to e30 it should Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kevinator9 57 Report post Posted June 3, 2011 I think it is E28 to E30 http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=379831345 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dubman 39 Report post Posted June 3, 2011 It will not bolt right in to a E30 trunklid you will need to slot or drill new holes. what the seller said. plus you'll get overlap at the two edges. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Venatus 2 Report post Posted June 13, 2011 Does anyone know if an m10 starter will fit m20 setups? Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Apex Effects 3 Report post Posted June 18, 2011 (edited) hi guys may have been asked before but my hunt has turned up nothing solid car is a 86 bmw 325 Engines in question are a m20b27(885 head) and a m30b35(e34 spec) What are their recommended water an oil running temp range? eg. Too Cold= Cool= Warm= Hot= Too hot!= Cheers Shaun Edited June 18, 2011 by GASTKR Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
APT 195 Report post Posted June 19, 2011 E30 PFL: How do you replace the sunroof cables? ie. take them out of the copper tubes to put the new bit in - do i have to take off the motor first ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
byza213 1 Report post Posted June 22, 2011 (edited) didnt want to make a new thread: car wont start straight away after driving for about 30 minutes ,when its warm: things to check please?? starter as been replaced Edited June 22, 2011 by e34play Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lucan 196 Report post Posted June 22, 2011 (edited) Check battery condition with a multimeter. Should be at least 12v...Are you playing music loudly before you turn the car off? Check ground strap, from the sump to the chasis rail. Drivers side. Both those contributed to my starting problems a while ago. Edited June 22, 2011 by Blackie Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tcbaurpower 5 Report post Posted July 8, 2011 e28 535i 1985 auto. Hi. On the way to work today my car started to hesitate on take off. Once it got rolling it took off and went normally except when I went to speed up it hesitated again. What could have caused this? Cheers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrphTa 5 Report post Posted July 9, 2011 Im being lazy and going to ask here. Throttle cable on my e36 has slack in it. Have wound the adjustment in the engine bay all the way out but still have slack. Is there another adjustment at the pedal end? cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2158 Report post Posted July 17, 2011 Anyone know the p/n of the M20 heater hose at the back of the head to the lower heater core fitting on an E30? Struggling to identify it on realoem. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
byza213 1 Report post Posted July 19, 2011 anyone know whats causes my exhaust fume to start staining a little on my rear bumper? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
huff3r 347 Report post Posted July 19, 2011 anyone know whats causes my exhaust fume to start staining a little on my rear bumper? Id go with either engine running rich, but more likely engine burning oil.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
byza213 1 Report post Posted July 20, 2011 yea man just read up on this , i think its running rich , which could be a variety of things causing this.! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lucan 196 Report post Posted August 2, 2011 This little guy is connected to the Air Temp sensor in the brake duct.. The 2 wires going off the back of it though... I assume one is for the ECU and the other goes to the OBC, does the wire going up the passenger side of the car under the fuse box go to the OBC? And if its cut it won't make any difference to engine management right? Also, drained my Radiator...Head Gasket? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slowe30 0 Report post Posted August 8, 2011 its a e30 318i 1989 got a m40 in it all ways had idle issues nothing to much to worry about though have put in a tested afm and idle control valve improved but still has "lumpy cams" as i like to say also has never liked high revs this is really annoying me, not the fact that im trying to use them the whole time just cus ive tried to fix it with several things and its just bugging me now ive replaced plugs, coil, computer, de-cat(improved a little but still bad) fuel filter, cleaned out the intake (must have been dirty cus it started idling at 2k till i adjusted it down), air filter. few other things aswell but cant remember them at the moment it also takes quite a while to start after its sat for a while dont know it this will have anything to do with it tho its as if its bogging down, after about 5k revs it just bogs out, if i change gear just after its done it it bogs in the next gear for a few seconds aswell any help will be greatly apreciated thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
antil33t 90 Report post Posted August 8, 2011 This little guy is connected to the Air Temp sensor in the brake duct.. The 2 wires going off the back of it though... I assume one is for the ECU and the other goes to the OBC, does the wire going up the passenger side of the car under the fuse box go to the OBC? And if its cut it won't make any difference to engine management right? they are both for the OBC, one is for the OBC Horn, other for the temp sensor. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Docile 64 Report post Posted August 10, 2011 got a battery / alternator problem on the 3. turned the car on this morning and when on the "on" / second ignition i noticed that the battery light was not on. is that an indication of a dead battery or alternator? i started it and it started fine but went on the safe side and drove the 7 to work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Docile 64 Report post Posted August 17, 2011 is there anything more to changing brake pad sensor other than replacing the unit itself? is it just plug and play? have got a thin brake lining warning. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 855 Report post Posted August 17, 2011 is there anything more to changing brake pad sensor other than replacing the unit itself? is it just plug and play? have got a thin brake lining warning. On some of the vehicles there is more to it. Which model are you referring to ?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Docile 64 Report post Posted August 17, 2011 95 740i Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 855 Report post Posted August 17, 2011 If the sensor has been activated by worn disc pads, the pads and sensor need replacing. Pays to measure, machine or replace the disc rotors. On that model it should be just plug and play. If not you need to go into service reset without resetting the service lights to clear the fault code. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tire 10 Report post Posted August 17, 2011 My golfs timing is weird at idle. The timing mark jumps around with every fire both to the advance and the retard side randomly. What could be causing this? Dizzy cap, rotor, and plugs are new. The mark then disappears off to the right when rev'd. The motor is basically the same as an M10.. 1.8 single cam with all the bosch engine electronics of that era. Cheers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Matt_ 42 Report post Posted August 17, 2011 what is a good alternative to naval jelly? Something that will stay on metal rather than a liquid style rust remover. want it to clean up an engine block. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
