Quick Questions

[antil33t 90]

So I have a new radiator, waterpump, thermostat, ect, new cap

Engine running, no leaks at all.

turn car off and leave it, water leaks out of the expansion tank...

Radiator guy seemed to be suggesting my head gasket was shagged... but this didn't happen before I got a new radiator.

I reckon the Radiator might be faulty. or I had too much water in it. Since there's no overflow pipe at all.. so it just overflows all over itself :S such a stupid design.

[euroriffic 612]

I'd make sure it wasn't over filled first. Wait till it's dead cold and check with the markings on expansion tank and then with motor warmed up try park on a steep incline or jack front right up with engine running and heater on hot and check bleed valve for any air. That was the problem with my 328i when I did pump and thermostat the other month

[antil33t 90]

Might do that today! since the car is cold now.

[dubman 39]

E30 FL plastic bumper repair, whats the best approach here?

try using a heat gun etc and press it back in (to a certain degree)? or just go at it with a sander?

TIA

[dubman 39]

bump, anyone?

[polley 916]

Try the heatgun first, hopefully the plastic will return back to original shape. Sanding will make it a horrible mess imo.

[yng_750 247]

So I have a new radiator, waterpump, thermostat, ect, new cap

Engine running, no leaks at all.

turn car off and leave it, water leaks out of the expansion tank...

Radiator guy seemed to be suggesting my head gasket was shagged... but this didn't happen before I got a new radiator.

I reckon the Radiator might be faulty. or I had too much water in it. Since there's no overflow pipe at all.. so it just overflows all over itself :S such a stupid design.

expansion tanks will level themselves out if they are over filled

normally the first time it heat soakes as that is where the highest temps are reached

run it through a couple of heat cycles then leave it overnight, next day it should be at the high cold mark

if its much lower its probably losing water or forcing too much out

i over filled my alfa once and it heat soaked and spat heaps out very quickly, no harm was done to the car but it didnt look good that happening over the vtnz wof pit. still got a wof though haha

[polley 916]

it will spit it out because the heated and expanding water has no where to go and eventually the radiator cap vents the excess pressure.

[antil33t 90]

I had worked it out in the end, was too filled because it had a small air lock in it somewhere... aimed it up a driveway, took the bleeder off... let it get to temprature.... gave it a sharp rev, water level drops down 1" hasn't blurted out any water at all.

[lukeappleby 0]

Hey Beemer fans, I'm after a quick indication of whether this is a simple fix, or a mechanic job - wasn't sure whether to devote a whole thread to it.

The car is a 1989 BMW E30 320i coupe, more than 250k on the clock.

I'm finding that after not driving the car for a fair time (1-2 weeks) while having it parked outside, when I do start it I'm getting a lot of hesitation, rough idling and even idling off. After persisting through the stuttering and frankly scary intersection close calls, it will eventually come right after warming up and will be fine as long as I start and give it a good run every few days.

Am I wrong to be suspecting some kind of moisture leak, or similar problem within the fuel system? It gets pretty wet here in Welly, and the rainy days seem to choke it up when it gets left outside. I've noticed the boot surrounding the fuel tank inlet is perished and has small holes, could water be getting into the fuel through there?

I initially thought it may have been the pod I put in sucking in moisture somehow, and so have gone back to factory with an aftermarket flat panel but the problem persists.

Like I said, just looking for a rough indication on whether to take the old girl down to JK Southern for some care, or whether this is common in older E30s. I should also add it got an elite service from Pit Stop less than a month ago, so fluids etc should be sweet.

Thanks in advance, sorry if this has been covered, if so please point me in the right direction.

LA

[nath 134]

Hey Beemer fans,

Had a look at the coolant temp sensor that tells the fuel map if it is cold or hot? IIRC open circuit is cold and higher resistance is hot running. Thus try and start it with the plug off (the original sensor is the blue top one Im sure) and see how she starts.

[dubman 39]

Is the throttle door supposed to by fully closed or a tad open when set at idle on an m40?

I made the mistake of touching the throttle stop bolt, but didn't realise it. So now i'm getting weird cold start issues (no vac leak, ICV fine, dizzy cap checked, spark plugs checked, new intake gaskets, injectors checked) after i cleaned my injectors and re-assmbled everything . I'm suspecting TPS issues due to some adjustments or a faulty switch.

TIA

[nath 134]

Closed enough that it seems fully shut but doesn't 'jam' shut and gouge out the bore. Set it there, and set the TPS to click just as it seats.

[dubman 39]

thanks for that Nath, and you set the TPS by adjusting the TPS attachment screws?

[sascha 17]

What torque do I tighten the bolts holdinging the diff cover on to?

Afaik the fill/drain plugs should be 41ft.lb, but I don't know about the rest.

And how tight for the bolt that holds the diff (the one that goes through the diff mount bush)?

Thanks guys

[dubman 39]

http://e30world.com/suspension/BMW-E30-Rea...ngs-Replacement

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showt...?t=602186\

have a look on there for the figures

Rear differential mounting bolt : 80-87 Nm ...... 59-64 ft-lb

I use 45 Nm for the cover and the same for the drain/fill plugs (factory states 75 Nm for the plugs__waaay too tight)

and from Bentley RE: mount bolt

[sascha 17]

Thanks mate!

[kevinator9 57]

Yellow "inspection" light on the E30 has come on.

I did the oil and filter change at 217000km on the 15/03/12 and reset the service lights to show all green. I am fairly certain they were all green (maybe one green had gone out) just before the yellow light came on.

It is now 220500km and less than 6 months down the track I would have thought it wouldn't be asking for another change so soon. The colour and quantity of oil still looks clean and well topped up.

Is it maybe looking for a different service or a published BMW service from a dealer?

Many Thanks.

[nath 134]

Yellow "inspection" light on the E30 has come on.

I did the oil and filter change at 217000km on the 15/03/12 and reset the service lights to show all green. I am fairly certain they were all green (maybe one green had gone out) just before the yellow light came on.

It is now 220500km and less than 6 months down the track I would have thought it wouldn't be asking for another change so soon. The colour and quantity of oil still looks clean and well topped up.

Is it maybe looking for a different service or a published BMW service from a dealer?

Many Thanks.

SI battery dying

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2136]

Yellow "inspection" light on the E30 has come on.

I did the oil and filter change at 217000km on the 15/03/12 and reset the service lights to show all green. I am fairly certain they were all green (maybe one green had gone out) just before the yellow light came on.

It is now 220500km and less than 6 months down the track I would have thought it wouldn't be asking for another change so soon. The colour and quantity of oil still looks clean and well topped up.

Is it maybe looking for a different service or a published BMW service from a dealer?

Many Thanks.

did you reset the oil AND service lights or just the oil light? two seperate things.

[kevinator9 57]

did you reset the oil AND service lights or just the oil light? two seperate things.

Just the oil light. I thought there might be a separate service. Is what is required/recommended for this service available in a manual somewhere? (I assume Haynes manual might have it but I never liked their books).

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2136]

Just the oil light. I thought there might be a separate service. Is what is required/recommended for this service available in a manual somewhere? (I assume Haynes manual might have it but I never liked their books).

yes if you have a manual, it is either Inspection 1 or 2 depending on what the last one you did was. of course, with an E30 the service interval indicator means next to nothing these days as in most cases they havent been dealer serviced for at least 5 years now.

To reset the light either use a tool to do it, or you can jump pin 7 and 15 (RESEARCH PINS FIRST) for 3 seconds for oil and 10-12 seconds for the inspection light

[sascha 17]

I'll try here aswell since I haven't had any luck in the WTB section.

Does anyone know where I can get a speed sensor, part number 62 16 8 355 008 (old part number is 62 16 1 385 583 so that's fine too)? For E30.

I'd prefer somewhere in NZ because the shipping from pelican parts is >$40 for a $30 part!

Thanks guys

[kevinator9 57]

I'll try here aswell since I haven't had any luck in the WTB section.

Does anyone know where I can get a speed sensor, part number 62 16 8 355 008 (old part number is 62 16 1 385 583 so that's fine too)? For E30.

I'd prefer somewhere in NZ because the shipping from pelican parts is >$40 for a $30 part!

Thanks guys

Shoot Gavin at Euro Italian (forum sponsor) an e-mail.

He can get anything in and has been very helpful to me.

[dubman 39]

does anyone know where to buy universal boots for the e30 ball joints? Repco, supercheap etc?