Jump to content
E30stz

Quick Questions

Recommended Posts

i tend to use genuine, from the dealer for oil filters. Cheap enough really.

I go to the dealer to buy oil and filter.take some containers for the quantity you need

Thanks guys. Given we don't even have a BMW dealer in New Plymouth, can anyone recommend a dealer that doesn't mind posting stuff like filters? I'll make some phone calls during the week if no one has any suggestions. Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

 

Thanks guys.  Given we don't even have a BMW dealer in New Plymouth, can anyone recommend a dealer that doesn't mind posting stuff like filters?  I'll make some phone calls during the week if no one has any suggestions.  Thanks.

If you have no luck let me know.i live close to and drive past a bmw dealer every day,prolly 6 days a week,i am sure we could work something out,or others can recommend other ways,ie oem filters through other sources.i may be old fashioned,but I like to support the hand that indirectly feeds us

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My E30 isn't braking so well. I'm yet to bleed the brakes, but that will come soon. I'm going to replace the brake pads too. Is there anything else that needs to be done when replacing the brake pads? Obviously, some brake cleaner on the rotors would be a good idea, but other than that, do they need to be resurfaced or replaced?
:-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My E30 isn't braking so well. I'm yet to bleed the brakes, but that will come soon. I'm going to replace the brake pads too. Is there anything else that needs to be done when replacing the brake pads? Obviously, some brake cleaner on the rotors would be a good idea, but other than that, do they need to be resurfaced or replaced?

:-)

You should check the thickness of the rotors, and if they are down around their minimum thickness put some new ones on. If they still have some life in them just give them a bit of a scuff with some 60 grit sandpaper, then a good clean and put them back on with new pads. Probably worth replacing your brake fluid while you are at it. Good luck :)
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. Given we don't even have a BMW dealer in New Plymouth, can anyone recommend a dealer that doesn't mind posting stuff like filters? I'll make some phone calls during the week if no one has any suggestions. Thanks.

Hit up our sponsor, Euro-Italian http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/10481-euro-italian-car-parts-forum-sponsor/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You should check the thickness of the rotors, and if they are down around their minimum thickness put some new ones on. If they still have some life in them just give them a bit of a scuff with some 60 grit sandpaper, then a good clean and put them back on with new pads. Probably worth replacing your brake fluid while you are at it. Good luck :)

Brake fluid should be replaced every 2 year's

Cheers guys. Will bleed my brakes next weekend, and order some pads. Decided to go with the Axxis Ultimate pads. Well priced and from what I've read they're pretty good.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does this sound like a trans problem , battery/voltage problem, or coil/plug problem? At about 1200-1500rpm cruising or going up a hill the revs will bounce +/- a hundred rpm. Almost like it's missing or not knowing which gear it should be in.

The battery is BMW branded, and has been harder cranking lately so could be just about dead.

The spark plugs are the OEM type,can't tell if they look too worn or not.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi people, what's a good source for oil and air filters for my 05 E61 530i (N52)? The ones on Trademe ok? Sorry if the question has been asked a million times. Thanks in advance.

I always used Genuine Nissan for my A32 Maxima, and Genuine VW for my Golf GTI A2 - I can understand this thinking.

I've been using Mann filters for some time, on the basis they're OEM for the vehicle I'm using them with.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does this sound like a trans problem , battery/voltage problem, or coil/plug problem? At about 1200-1500rpm cruising or going up a hill the revs will bounce +/- a hundred rpm. Almost like it's missing or not knowing which gear it should be in.

The battery is BMW branded, and has been harder cranking lately so could be just about dead.

The spark plugs are the OEM type,can't tell if they look too worn or not.

Sounds battery related, I know they can cause a limp mode fault in the trans if it's getting low.

Take it somewhere to be load tested and see how it goes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds battery related, I know they can cause a limp mode fault in the trans if it's getting low.

Take it somewhere to be load tested and see how it goes.

Yep, i think it's definitely battery related now. Found the date stamp on it this morning, August 2001 haha. I'm impressed it still starts the car.

Was that your M3 at centre city new world yesterday avo BTW? Looking good.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Haha yea could be due for replacement! Yea that was me, was that you with the primer spots? Didn't know if it was or not

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anybody know if E30 bottlecaps are worth anything? I'll have 4 to sell/store/get rid of soon so just wondering. They have tyres on them. Odd brands, tread ranging from 3-6 ish mm. Thanks ^_^

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Worth around 100 upto maybe 250ish with decent tread on tyres

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anybody know if E30 bottlecaps are worth anything? I'll have 4 to sell/store/get rid of soon so just wondering. They have tyres on them. Odd brands, tread ranging from 3-6 ish mm. Thanks ^_^

I wouldnt mind a set for the e21 i am going to try and sell, but the shipping from Wellington will probably kill it. Let me know when you are ready to sell.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

help!

car is a 1997 e36 m3 evo with alarm option

something super random decided to happen today ..

I parked up to pick up some food, shut the ignition down, and got out of the car, closed the door and pressed lock on my key fob (3 button).

I usually hear a click lock sound, but no joy so I turned around and saw the interior lights flashing constantly. Unfortunately, the interior lights were also hooked up to my angel eyes (also I have red LEDs replacing my interior lights) so it was like a freaking rave club - those who have seen my aftermarket angel eyes can attest to how bright they are !!

So I quickly picked up my food and jumped back into the car (it wouldn't lock) and it started fine and I drove the rest of the way home with the interior lights still flashing away. My angel eyes are wired to an ACC circuit as well so at least they werent flashing anymore.

Anyway, I get home, and try to lock the car .. no joy again. i tried my other key fob, no luck. so with my little garage disco flashing away, I pulled my relay circuits for the angel eyes and turned off the overhead lights - so only the footwell lights were flashing away. I used the key to manually lock the car, and the alarm light near the shifter turned on and stayed steady.

I then tried to hold the key in lock position and at that time the indicators, front and rear flashed like hazards were on. weird. did it twice, same thing. so ..

I went inside to google what I could find .. they mentioned dead batteries and wiring problems and fuses etc.

So I went back outside to the garage for another look and howdy the disco was over. I tried my key fob and everything worked as per usual. I reconnected my relay system for the angel eyes and it works fine. car starts, no problems whatsoever.

Anyone experience this before? Cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

E36 auto gearboxes - are they the same?

Ive come across a cheap 328 with a broken gearbox and can get a hold of a auto box from a 320 but will it bolt up the same? I assume so as manual ones do but you never know.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Failed wof for excessive play in front wheels. Also have a good shudder at highway speeds while under light braking. Would I be right to inspect thrust arms first?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

From my experiance thrust arms dont often fail wof as they dont move wheel in that direction.

If you stab the brakes with a decent kick at like 50kph you should hear/feel a decent thunk as they shoot back on the worn bush

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

E36 auto gearboxes - are they the same?

Ive come across a cheap 328 with a broken gearbox and can get a hold of a auto box from a 320 but will it bolt up the same? I assume so as manual ones do but you never know.

Nope. Kiwi 328s had ZF, others have Jatco etc etc and so on...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Failed wof for excessive play in front wheels. Also have a good shudder at highway speeds while under light braking. Would I be right to inspect thrust arms first?

I failed a wof 6 months ago on lower control arm bushes. From memory they knew the exact fault and highlighted the worn bush with a marker.

Failure is a likely cause of the shudder

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

WTF is this? Part of my heater? Back and right of M60B40 - E34

The plastic pipe inlet/outlet has snapped off (pulled around 10mm of it out of the rubber hose) Is it a part I'm likely able to pickup new around the Auckland parts places?

Am I able to do a bit of a dodgy routing to one of the other hoses here to give myself a little more time to sort it?

Scared the hell out of me, thought I'd popped a head gasket hauling past the taxi's loitering on Eden Crescent..

post-6436-0-50265000-1405501198_thumb.jp

post-6436-0-94679800-1405501221_thumb.jp

*Edit: Obviously left and right is confusing for me...

Edited by sonic_attack

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Heater valve. Left and right is for the dual zone. Hence two temp selectors inside. some 7 series have an electric motor built in too to keep the hot water flowing when the engine is off

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Aux water pump for heater and yes you can bypass that cover is held on with spring clips.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...