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Not to mention the 45 series changing your handling. Usually when you go wider, you go lower aspect ratio to remain at the same circumference. The engineers set that car up as a package with thousands of hours of development time. Unless you're looking to make specific changes, I'd suggest you stick with the stock sizing, as @eliongater suggests. Here's a visual comparison of your stock size, and your tyre professional's suggested option: Aside from the handling change (taller sidewalls adding 33mm to the height, more sidewall flex, and higher c of g), you can see it'll also gear it up, and nearly 99mm to the circumference (more than 5%). Seriously, I'd shop somewhere else, where the tyre guy has a clue.

As stated I have a motor including all ancillaries for sale as it's now surplus to requirements. I was planning to turbocharge and use on either my e46 coupe or my e30 Project car but have chosen a different route. Came out of my e39 that got rear ended 2 years ago and has been sitting for like a year now in my shop. Open to offers because I need some money for more parts . Has done 120 odd ks. Can't exactly remember mileage but it was not more than 130 ks Pick up in Glenfield. Has all coils etc and ecu and loom . 02102916373

Hi guys, been a very long time since I have posted. Just wanted some feedback, to see what sort of money these fetch these days. 2013 ALPINA B3 BI-Turbo Thank you very much

@Olaf I'd forgotten about the profile, I only got as far as the width being off, yeah 245/45 is way too tall, even for an 8.5" rim, it should be 245/40 if anything. I second that this tyre guy might not quite understand the nuances of tyres in this situation.

on the contrary, any Leaf owner should expect to have the piss taken, even when there's an i6 or bent 8 in the background...

17x7.5 et41? 245 seems too big and might look a bit balloon like, and is fitted to e46/36 17x8.5 wheels. According to this site what you have already (235/40R17) is the OEM size. Changing from that will alter your speedometer reading slightly. Personally I’d stick with the OEM size https://bimmertips.com/oem-bmw-e36-m3-wheel-opitions-specs/

Anti-seize has been my go to for all poly bushings for a long time. Nicer to apply and lasts much longer than anything ive had supplied ie lithium based stuff

is it a auto or manual motor. I have a dme for a manual ish any one wants it.

If you want good suspension on a budget you're better off getting a good shock and spring combo. There are places that'll help you put something together based on what you want. Eg: http://www.strutmonkey.com/ Cheap coilovers aren't worth it. And in NZ they won't be cheap regardless because they'll require a cert. You'll be better off with some good shocks and springs. Considering what goes into developing good suspension... there is no way you should touch no name brand suspension parts, it's asking for trouble.

Unknown brand, probably made in china QC unknown, backup probably nil and then because its a coil over you need to get you car certed.

So this is the damage that was done to the PCB from the wiring issues, no way that was going to be repaired. And I think I know what the issue was that caused it, and it's a nice simple fix so will get that sorted as well. Hahaha it still looks exactly the same as the previous pics, just a little cleaner now

I was awaiting your response Gabe - I knew all that RTV would get your attention

"we're going to clear more cookies than a fat kid at a birthday party" Never thought i would get to use a line from Big mouth on a BMW forum, but there you go...

I had to google that. I'm open-minded, non-judgemental. It's too early in the morning for those images. I'll never look at a Leaf again in the same way, without thinking of a#$ play. ?

So you gotta ask yourself, was it Wurth the effort??

Also check the vacuum lines and blanking cap on the ports at the rear of the manifold as they crap out too, see picture.