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Sounds like fun... Sorry to be pedantic though, a car built after the E46 M3 cannot be its predecessor. Perhaps you mean its true successor (presumably meaning that the E9x M3 didn't live up to the E46)?

My E46 was imported from Japan and came with the infamous 2-button Infrared (IR) remote control system. The range of the IR signal is extremely limited and also requires a direct line of sight to the car. After reading through some forum threads combined with some of my own findings it seemed fairly easy to convert from IR to RF. This is a guide to inform you of the basic steps. I’d like to thank Colin from http://bmwgm5.info for giving me some suggestions and helping me along the way to make this work. On cars with infrared control the antenna for the central-locking system (FZV) is incorporated with the receiver into the interior rear view mirror, whereas the radio frequency receiver is part of the antenna amplifier which is installed in the left C-pillar. In both instances the receiver produces a digital signal based on the transmitter command (IR vs. 315/433MHz) and sends it to the GM5 for processing. The GM5 then carries out all remote locking and opening features, along with the DWA arming/disarming functions. The one thing both locking systems have in common is the incoming signal at Pin#49 of the General Module unit (X253, 54-pin, black plug connector). 1) Antenna Amp w/ RF receiver You must replace the antenna amplifier. There are 2 different frequencies used (315 MHz and 433 MHz) which vary from country to country. You must first determine which frequency you want. You could go either way but you probably want to make sure you are in compliance with federal requirements. # 65 25 6 906 074 433 MHz EU # 65 25 6 906 075 315 MHz US/JAP/CAN I found a used 433 MHz Antenna Amp on ebay for about $30. As a side note, you often find the older-style diversity Amp (99-01) featuring an extra co-axial connector for signal quality determination. I do not recommend getting one of these. People who upgrade their business radio later but have the old amp installed often discover degradation in radio reception quality until they also finally decide to replace the amp for a newer one. There are various threads on this issue across the boards if you're interested. 2) Matching Keys (diamond style 3-button key) For this I didn’t go to the dealer but decided to take the DIY route which proved to be a lot cheaper: I ordered two uncut EWS Remote Key 3 Button 433MHZ BMW HU92 key blade including virgin transponder chip and AK90 Key programmer, all for about $140 on ebay. The locksmith finally charged me $40 to cut both keys. You might be able to find an automotive locksmith that can also program the transponder for you. 3) Wiring You need to run your own wiring harness from the Amp (connector X1143) to the GM5 and fuse box behind the glove compartment. In a nutshell: On a sedan, you pop off the left rear seat side bolster and remove the front and back inner door sills to expose the carpet entry points. Then route your new harness alongside the existing one to the front of the car using some zip ties. Parts needed: # 61 13 8 377 072 Universal socket housing, 3 POL. # 61 13 1 393 702 Terminal socket (0.2–0.5 mm2), come in 10-pack 10ft of 2-conductor stranded wire, 20AWG (0.5mm2) 2 scotchlok or quick-splice connectors Cut both strands of your wire to same length and crimp a terminal to each end of the wire, only Pin#1 and #3 are needed. If you are lucky the amp will come with an old snipped off connector plug like mine did which you can reuse and save a bit of money. Important: Disconnect the negative battery lead (ground cable) before tapping into the fuse box and GM5 unit! I am not going into detail on how to locate and gain access to the GM5 or the back of the fuse box as there are plenty instructions available on the web. Using the scotch connectors, tab the wire coming from Pin#1 to the back of Fuse49 (Red/Violet wire). Pin#3 wire gets spliced to the wire at Pin#49 (Blue/Red wire) of plug connector X253 (middle one) at the GM5 module. Be aware, there is another Blue/Red wire running inside the X253 harness, although slightly bigger in diameter. Best is to unplug the X253 from the GM5 and push the actual 54-pin connector out of its black housing to reveal the pin-outs which are all numbered. There is a small white tab securing the connector in its housing which you will need to slide out before. After you identified the correct Pin#49 you can wiggle on the wire and splice into the harness further up. Note: It’s probably a good idea to double-check your wiring to rule out any connectivity issues before putting everything back together. When you connect a meter to Pin#1 and one of the grounded T20 Torx screws of the Amp you should read +12V. Pin#3 should give you a reading of +5V. Check if the +5V drop slightly when pressing any button on the RF key fob, same goes for the IR key. 4) Key Programming I noticed that upon completion of the retrofit you have to switch the ignition on and off briefly for the vehicle's electrical system to recognize the new components. After that you should be able to proceed with the standard BMW syncing procedure for the diamond-shaped key. The IR key will work as well as it should be still connected to the GM5. 5) Retro-fit Coding This retrofit is not coding-relevant! You could add it to the VO of your car if it really matters to you but it will not make a difference in functionality. For the sake of completeness I used NCSExpert and added Option S874A RADIO FREQUENCY 434 MHZ and also removed S875A INFRARED REMOTE CONTROL – it didn’t make a difference at all. All the other components that complete the RF system, such as the rear window antenna, trap circuit and EWS ring around the top of ignition cylinder for inductive charging are already installed by BMW. The electric trunk lock will also work with the new key. Please let me know if you have any suggestions. Thanks

I recently went on a BMW NZ M Power Experience Day to test out the New M3 & M4 Out on the Road, On the Track, Skid Pad, Drag Strip Test and Hot Laps.. The Day was first off amazing, having the rare opportunity to not just drive these phenomenal cars, but put them through their paces. I guess my opinion is one to speak it's own, but I shall share it anyway. The M3 & M4.. A True machine. Luxury with a power so pure it's makes my AC Schnitzer look like a Toyota Corolla in Comparison.. I LOVED the fact they have gone back to that Inline 6, the sound was incredible, the performance was sharp, and I felt like BMW created so much power, from such a small start.. Turbos.. Mm. I can't say I am a BIG fan, but I did enjoy them when they kicked in... The power was relatively even considering what they are packing under the hood, I expected a lot more 'lag' but BMW, yet again did something right in that department. Inside the car was another story.. I think it would take me a few weeks of dedicated time to work out half the functions in relation to just driving the darn thing, and then a few more weeks to figure out the internal components for comfort.. Caught off guard multiple times when I was continually asked by this car to confirm I wanted to remove certain features (DSC, Sports Mode etc).. I felt in reality, a car shouldn't ask ME questions.. Other than that, it was comfort to drive, seats were shaped so you felt like you were meant to be in there, the dash was modern, but simple. Handling - I felt it was heavier to drive than most cars, I felt like I had to throw it around a few corners instead of flowing with them.. Something of course I would in no time get used too. Control is amazing, the new technology of safety is one to none.. Considering I tested these cars in the wet, I felt safe.. I felt like it welcomed me into going slightly quicker into a corner than most cars would! And then that look, fierce, unique.. I loved the gold colour, it made you felt like you indeed were driving something worth it's weight in gold. The lines of this car are beautiful, working with it and not against it. This car is truly something to look at. Overall, a complete beast. I felt like this car is and will be the true successor to the E46 M3, and one I will certainly consider in future purchases (given the purchase price isn't half a house!) Cheers to BMW NZ for giving me the chance to go out there and test these beautiful cars. Will upload a video over the next few days..

I used to do this for about $150ish a couple years ago, did a couple members cars until I ran out of the stock materal. Also using a faux black alcantara, a little tougher as the material isn't as flexible but stil do-able and the end result looked awesome.

Drove one for a year, (v8 version). Nice cruisers and definetly comfortable. However, only 330hp at the crank doesn't move the 2tonns around too quickly. Fuel was about 14L/100km average and I have quite a heavy foot Would hate to think how bad the 3.2 would be

Thank you to Scott (Palazzo) and Dave (M3AN), I've got my (son's) collection sorted. Cheers!

Surely the biggest difference you'll find will be the speed with which the Wof man denies you a wof?

***WARNING*** this happened on sunday and not today Drove the E30 down to Hampton downs so i could have a watch of the drift guys. Also there was no worries about cost and how much fuel itd drink as my Dad borrowed it the other day and left 3/4 of a tank in it FTMFW Proceded to park it in the pits like a champ.... Saw the E36 drifing and man it looked awesome! The guy obviously knows how to pedal it..... was also refreshing to see a "not japanese" car going around the track the most inccorect way possible and some guy took a photo of my hardcore parking skills

Welcome! Looking nice mate, been around for a while, owned by a few members. Nothing beats the look of a classic e30 on rs's!

it was real guys ... cheers

LOL ... I guess I deserved that for the posts I've put up ... but not really jealous at all ... far from it. Nail on the head Jooles It's more the treatment from dealerships over the actual day. Anyway, after seeing this video I am far from impressed ... 75hp down and 1.4 quicker on a short circuit... LOL ultimate driving machine I think not. The handling looked a handful through all the sections of the circuit when the Porker just looked absolutely planted. Either BMW missed the mark once again with the handling on this or the tyres are letting what should have otherwise been a good handling car down again. Judge for yourself, but I don't think any of us on here are more qualified than the test driver in the video.

Dont bother with the rubbish this kid is crapping on about. Just write in a nice, level headed, cool, calm and collected letter. If they let you off, cool, if they dont, chalk it up to experience.

Hahahaha oh that's right. I completely forgot how retarded you are. Booked that one way plane ticket yet?

...you for real?

This was the advert...

yeah il have set can you please send me pictures please so i could view now of what final product will look like

Washed it. Sorry about that. Probably explains why it's raining, now.

Yeah, but Redbook is a load of crap and should be taken about as seriously as the Dog and Lemon guide.

Don't think Tom will be jealous... He's one of the very few people on here who can actually afford to buy one of these cars, so it's probably us that should be green. What he will be is unsurprised. He hasn't been overly impressed with the dealers' service over the years.

You can get, but hard to find, original tweeter pods\quarter panels - not sure what they're called but the plastic triangle on the inside of the mirrors. Or you can just glue them there. Or something custom? I did the quality coax fronts, Infinity Kappa, with sub in the boot. I liked it but if I was going to do it again I'd use components with the tweeters up high to lift the stage.

you do what you want, where you can, and how you can, ignore the comments dude your doing well and im sure your learning much so keep going to how it suits you