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Yep about that, and than I know I will have a good motor that will go for many km. Yep Paul has given a thicker headgasket. Way? watt is the fun in that, and if you get a second hand engine, you don't know watt you get, it can blow after a month to. And the car is way I bought it for, it is still registered and there will be all fibre glass panels for.

Ponsonby on a nice sunday is very very funny driving the e30 through. They all hipster gaze the e30 then you just scare them off with a parp on the accelerator back on topic, am rage about this.. can the general populous stop killing techwans .... seriously, theyre pretty rare these days in good order. HellBM can only restore a few at a time .. and Ray doesnt do it for a profit. Starting to think there needs to be a BMW e30 motorsport licience / practical exam needed before youre allowed to purchase.

The only way my M325i will get anywhere near 6L/100kms is if I am freewheeling down a cliff face.... anything less than 12L/100kms and you are a Granny!

Looky Looky Just got the head's back, clean bill of health. plane the head's new seals and reface the valve and valve seat's. New gasket set top and bottom. Still have to order rings bearings and the timing chain kit. Thanks to Paul at Taylor Automotive real helpful

nice find! very jealous

What he said^^^^^^ Common as muck. Use butyl sealer or tape to stick it back down. Then you can get them off when required.

Still love it ....even catch my self just stearing at it haha. Just replaced the bonnet badge and wheel centers,also done oil and all filters.

i think having it a WOF failure if tyre age if over a certain limit would be easy to implement, check, and would knock a lot of this on the head quickly.

Do you mean when you open the doors, a puddle of water gushes out? If so its most likely the vapour barriers, the seal may have come off, or have been removed in the past and not stuck back down properly. I had that problem on all 4 doors of my 530, one having been cut with a stanley knife by some rough bugger doing some work on the door. Bit of black mastic sealant to stick it back down fixed the problem.

Sounds like the spragg clutch in the alternator pulley is seized causing the belt tensioner to vibrate and rattle. Get it seen to before the tensioner bearing flies to pieces. You will probably need a new pulley, tensioner and idler to fix it. Special tools are required to change the spragg pulley

We have one starting up in 3 seconds ...

Got touring 2.0 delivered this morning, gave her the once over, then pulled the broken auto out and associated bits. Found my flywheel doesn't match the pressure plate, so on the hunt. Also, Gaz the reason why the replacement box didn't work was from miss fitting the torque converter and snapping the oil pump drive keys. Don't worry, we've all been there

http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/43901-prototype-dslive-data-acquistion/?fromsearch=1 ??

Drove it. In the rain. Turns out wheelspin @1xxkph in 4th is enough to sharpen the senses and clench the chute.

Hello!

Picked up my new flywheel yesterday We will be using a sprung disk It is only a 228mm flywheel as we have a dprubg disk here for it already, we are also having a pressure plate re built and up rated For us having the 240mm flywheel didnt really achive much, we are only running on clay so there isnt as much grip as a seal track, The guy who made it was from dynamic engineering

I'd like to add that e30s are very popular at the moment with the young hipster crowd using mum and dads money to buy their first car. Old tech plus minimal driving experience equals accidents. This makes me sound like an old coot but my first car at 15 was a FWD Mazda 323 with an asthmatic single carb 1.5 that couldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding. I too would've ended up backwards through a fence if I owned a 170hp RWD 6 cylinder with no safety features and a tendency to oversteer.

Doing a rubbish job with your witty ad and competitive pricing then.

nice touring, and good work on the roof racks.... *neck is sore* edit: here u go everyone..