Leaderboard

have plans to change the front of the Ti , to get rid of the ugly duckling look something like this but with a msport bumper

Going by what I read on the internet, installing a V8 into a e46 is a prick of a job and with only a couple hundred houses from the 3l v8 is it worth it? Hell yeah I think a V8 3 series is a cool first car. To get around the oil Pump problem you have when installing a M60 into a E46 I decided to dry sump the motor new sump machining the drive gear to fit the factory crank pulley mounting the pump

A little update a year later, Welcome to the family the 100% rust free geneuine 325i coupe. That in the past year every nut & bolt has been gone over. Running brand new bilstiens all around, all new engine mounts, belts, water pump, air intake all new genuine radiator piping and all new bushings in the gear box. Its a dream come true. All I need to do now is fix and install the rest of the body kit with all the new clips that I ordered from bmw.. enjoy once this car is done you can expect a lot more photos haha

I won't be showing this thread to my 19yr old. He want to trade me in?

I was seeing 93 not 92, That MIVEC looks interesting, I need to read more about it now.

4G93 was the baby brother to the 4G63. Liked to throw a leg out with above 'mild' tuning. The 4g92 was the NA Honda B16a rival, the B16a which was released in 89' had an output of 99hp/litre. (Sorry Ron)

I have an E91 325i wagon (6cyl) and it has given me trouble free motoring for a year. I wouldnt hesitate to recommend one as a daily driver as long as its well looked after (or buy mine! I want to drive my older, less comfortable 5 series and spend more money on maintenance!)

I think the Mitsubishi 4G92 Mivec pre-dated that too with 170hp from a 1.6L, somewhere about 1992.

get an older one then....and budget for some money to get it to a point you are happy with....The older ones can do huge kms between big spends

We do our transmission oil level checks at 45c using live data, not an external temp sensor source

The numbers in this link are very interesting, and quite funny; http://www.driven.co.nz/news/news/how-clarkson-an-co-blew-283-million-trying-to-mow-down-top-gear/

Just flicking through Facebook while having a coffee and saw a couple of For Sales come up. One was for a 2000/1 E46 325Ci with a manual 'box. Business Edition, leather seats, multi-CD changer and added BMW Bluetooth and USB functions, and all the rest. One was for a 2001 320i saloon with a Tiptronic box, cloth interior and M3 badges. The difference? One was £750, one was $6500. Guess which was which?

Specific temp is between 30-35 degrees celsius to start the checking process, 40 degrees to check the level, but allows up to 50 degrees before the expansion will affect the levels and the results will be too low. The overflowing I had at the beginning would be explained by the higher temperature when I started. I had noted the temperatures while doing my research, but the guides I was following weren't so specific, so here is the specific guide for ZF 5HP24 transmission: http://www.thectsc.com/5hp24-transmission-fluid-level-procedures A. Transmissions fluid level checking. 1) The transmission fluid temperature must be between 30°C and 35°C before checking can begin. Use test equipment to determine the trans temperature. 2) The vehicle must be level with engine running at idle speed and air conditioning turned on. 3) Step on the brakes firmly, apply parking brake fully and shift to D and R, briefly pausing in each position before shifting back to the Park position. 4) With the engine running at idle speed and the selector in Park position, remove the filler plug. Monitor the transmission temperature, if a small stream of oil runs out at 40°C, the fluid level is correct. 5) If no oil runs out when the filler plug is removed, the fluid level is too low and oil needs to be added until it overflows. 6) With engine running, install the oil filler plug and tighten to proper torque. B. Adding fluid after repairs. 1) With the engine stopped and the transmission in Park position, remove the oil filler plug. Add transmission fluid until a small stream of oil runs out. 2) Insert the filler plug and tighten by hand. Start the engine. 3) With the engine running, remove the oil filler plug and add transmission fluid until a small stream of oil runs out. Insert the filler plug and tighten by hand. 4) Follow the “Transmission fluid level checking” procedure described in section A. above. C. Notes on fluid level and adding procedure. 1) Use only ZF-LifeguardFluid5 or OEM approved transmission fluid. 2) If the transmission temperature rises above 50°C during the fluid level checking procedure the resulting oil level will be to low. Let the transmission cool down and repeat the fluid level procedure. 3) Have transmission fluid and a suitable oil pump available before starting the fluid level procedure. The transmission fluid temperature will rise quickly during the checking procedure.

I've gone overkill. Or plan to, at least. E46 M3 front brakes and E46 325i rear. In an E30.

If that wont pass a cert i am definetly not going to pass with the v8 in a smaller body again. I am using e46 325i front discs and caliper (300mm) with ebc red pads, e30 stock rear calipers with ebc red pads, stainless lines and racing brake fluid. you would hope the setup you have is big enough.

wow! this is old! been a while since i've been on here. i have had many E30's since the pictures above but i have always held onto this one here she is today. still lots to do but i'm pretty happy with how it is.