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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/19/17 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    I think I need to make a video like this..
  2. 2 points
  3. 2 points
    patience, patience.... they're still trying to get from SH16 to the domain! it's still jammed solid, and now there's no light!
  4. 1 point
    New parts car just in 2002 nz new e46 M3 smg 176ks Will be using some of the frontal parts , seats , trims , suspension, wheels etc etc to fix another M3 Fairly good body shell Excellent engine and gearbox Brakes Lsd 021433600 [email protected]
  5. 1 point
    Has anyone done a side by side comparison on these two tyres. The RE003 seems to occupy that space where you get a very good tyre for not too much cash, sure there are better tyres Contact Sports, Pilot Sports etc but they cost quite a bit more. Where does the Dragon Sport sit?
  6. 1 point
    This is just a rip-off of "buy my Volvo" by PonyHans! The Suzuki one is pretty cool though.
  7. 1 point
    I have Dragon Sports (on the 328 slushy) and they're "Sports" only in name, they're not in the same category as the others you mention. For a commuter car I consider them great value and they perform more than adequately for your A to B stuff. I like them for this purpose.
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    I think you're nearly there. This is the flip side of the 330i discussion that earned Colin his new @Young Thrash Driver Moniker. The market will always decide where the value lies, and whether your asking price overcomes their objections. It's the assessment of condition, mileage, options, maintenance against price that is essential, and where the prospective buyer perceives balance or great value, cash comes. Good quality maintenance makes the car more desirable though not always worth much more. If I had spare change I'd buy your 530i, it looks like a great example for me as a daily commuter, and I'd not have any significant maintenance for the next year. Hopefully you'll get some reasonable offers soon! PS - it's a WHOLE LOT OF CAR for the money given people spend twice that on an 8 year old Japanese import Toyota/Nissan/Subaru that has at least as much risk. I'd take a late e39 with the M54 every time! Esp. one that looks this cool.
  10. 1 point
    Actually after driving the e39 I realised I didn't need the set. I decided that the e39 was more of a daily than a garage queen that would give me the fizz and I wouldn't buy such an old car as a daily next, hence will keep the original and the best ? The e39 is the best all rounder without doubt but misses the drama of the v10 or the prestige of the e28. And the e34 has never spoken to me. Hence something new ??
  11. 1 point
    Update #14 Time for a big update! Lots has happened since my last update... Hopefully I don't forget anything as I write this. The weekend after my last update ended we disassembled the front end. Pretty easy and straightforward process, and unfortunately I didn't get any photos of it. We then moved straight on to the rod bearings. Removed the oil pan, associated hardware, etc. Oil pump removed: We then moved on to doing the rod bearings... To begin with it was actually an absolute mission. It just isn't possible for a single person to manage 105 degrees of angle torque when lying under the car (in our experience anyway). We burned through a couple of spare bolts practicing, and trying different approaches, but we just couldn't make it work. 70 degrees would have been fine, so I can understand how this would have worked for the older E46's, but we just couldn't reliably pull 105 degrees in a single stroke. After some trial and error, and a fair amount of frustration on my part we came up with an approach that worked. It takes 3 people, but it's a reliable approach. Basically the tool is as follows: Bit -> Angle gauge -> 12 in extension -> long breaker bar -> breaker bar extension (pipe). Person #1: Holds the bit, gauge, extension assembly in the right place, cradling the angle between the extension and the breaker bar against their shoulder. They're responsible for maintaining the tool on axis as person #3 rotates the assembly. Person #2: Their sole job is to locate the gauge and call out progress to Person #3. Person #3: Rotates the tool through 105 degrees. Person #1 & #2 are underneath the car. Person #3 is near the front left wheel well. It's important before each pull that you check that you have 105 degrees of motion available to you. We found that if we got it wrong we would collide with the front left jack stand. This approach made the tightening procedure fairly straightforward and reproducible. We did run into one further issue. We noticed that the bearings coming off the car had 437/438 stamped into them, and the new ones going on had 439/440 stamped into them. We were immediately concerned that we had different part numbers. A lot of investigation research and measurement later and we concluded that we had the same part, although we can't explain why the number stamped on the bearings is different... Part numbers ending 437/438 don't appear to have ever been BMW bearing parts, so we're a bit uncertain. The real kicker though was that in the process of investigating all of this and measuring bearings, etc. we managed to damage one of the new bearing shells. This meant that we were only able to get 5 of the 6 bearings done while a replacement bearing winged it's way to Auckland... It was a bit annoying to not be able to get it done in a day, but ultimately worthwhile getting a pristine replacement. I was away over Easter volunteering at a large Easter Camp event for high school kids (6500 kids), and then was also away the weekend after Easter with friends. By the time the next weekend came around the replacement bearing shell had arrived, and 20 minutes later we had it in place. Before I move on here's photos of the bearings. Yes, I know, there's only 5 in the photo. I'm a fail photographer, will replace this pic as soon as I get a new one with all 6 :facepalm: Cyl 1 (Cap side) Cyl 1 (Rod side) Cyl 2 (Cap side) Cyl 2 (Rod side) Cyl 3 (Cap side) Cyl 3 (Rod side) Cyl 4 (Cap side) Cyl 4 (Rod side) Cyl 5 (Cap side) Cyl 5 (Rod side) Cyl 6 (Cap side) Cyl 6 (Rod side) For a car with 85,000 miles on them these seem pretty bad. I'm very, very glad that I didn't wait any longer to do them, and I consider myself pretty lucky that the journals are fine and nothing's damaged. Given I don't know the full service history of the car, I can't be sure how it's been looked after, especially in terms of oil changes. But at least going forward I know where things are at. With the rod bearings done we then reinstalled the oil pump, etc. and refitted the oil pan (after a good clean). This took a surprisingly long time to torque everything up, but by the end of the day we had the subframe back on and the steering rack reinstalled. During the week Dad reassembled the front struts ready for reinstallation. All looking good! Also here's a pic of the front hubs painted up. The next weekend we kicked into further reassembly. We started the day with fitting the new oil filter and refilling the motor. And reassembly of the front end: We then kicked into draining the transmission oil. We'd been holding off on doing this for ages as I'd been having real trouble sourcing MTF-LT-2 fluid. I finally managed to track so down so we were good to go. Some family stuff meant that we didn't get anything more done that day, nor the following weekend... This afternoon though Dad refilled the transmission. Custom oil filler ready to go! In it goes... And here's the comparison of the old "lifetime" oil and the new. This weekend we'll get stuck into finishing the reassembly on the front end. Turn the engine over to get some oil around the place and hopefully do a compression/leakdown test as well. Then it'll be on to reinstallation of the driveshaft, exhaust etc. The end is in sight!
  12. 1 point
    What ever......Do as you please
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